914 Radiator Mounting Options

[76-914]

300hp is the imagined critical number. I assume you will be doing the accompanying upgrades that come with 300hp+, i.e. tub & suspension re-inforcement, CV & 1/2 shaft upgrades, transmission...............just for starts. HP is fun, addictive and expensive. LMK when you finish and I'll send you VW/Subaru decal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[tazz9924]

300hp is the imagined critical number. I assume you will be doing the accompanying upgrades that come with 300hp+, i.e. tub & suspension re-inforcement, CV & 1/2 shaft upgrades, transmission...............just for starts. HP is fun, addictive and expensive. LMK when you finish and I'll send you VW/Subaru decal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

You have a vw subaru decal?! Why haven’t i heard of this earlier

[Mike Bellis]

Be careful with JDM motors. They sometimes have unique parts and gaskets. JDM gaskets are really hard to find some times.

[Mueller]

Be careful with JDM motors. They sometimes have unique parts and gaskets. JDM gaskets are really hard to find some times.

Specific ECU's as well from what I've read pop up once in a while, so another thing to think about and research.

[Andyrew]

I dont think I would go with a factory ECU anymore. I would only Microsquirt or Megasquirt a car... Just too much positives with too little negatives for doing it.

[Francesco]

I am planning on stiffening the trailing arms, sway bar mounts, rear fenders using the GT kit, and inner longs. Possibly also the trailing arm mounts. I've heard good things about flashing the Subaru ECUs from friends & from reading online as well, so I will attempt to use that before going with an aftermarket ECU. Also, I will do more research about JDM parts and the difficulties of finding them, I just assumed they were the same as USDM.

[76-914]

Sounds like you've done your homework. Are you using petrolicious to re-flash the ECU? I didn't need to re-flash anything for my 6 cylinder install. I have one USM and one JDM engine; both 3.0's. The only difference I found on this model was one of the 4 Molex engine connectors was different. Since I already had the US version harness it was only a matter of switching out the one small harness. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914forme]

Sway bar mount reinforcement 914Limitied, best design out there. Unless your trying to find something larger then MadDogs Mount is more than likely over kill. I have used both.

Inner Log - Maddog

Outer Log if you need a real stiff car 914LTD

RE-concole - Tangerine racing Chris stuff is the best

Things not to do:
Rear Trailing Arms - do not box them. Lots of info on here, better to put some tubes or add a plate into the arm. Tangerine does the arm with the plate in the middle, it costs a bit more, but worth it in the long run. Deluxe Trailing Arms

914 GT reinforcement kit, better to spend you more doing the console and tube to the firewall. Chris' stuff will do to the best for the money. Rear Suspension Inner Console Reinforcements and Rear Pickup Points Reinforcing Kit

If you feel like you need more, 914LTD does an outer rocker kit that goes all the way back to the suspension outer pickup point of the rear console.

Good luck with the build.

[Andyrew]

I am planning on stiffening the trailing arms, sway bar mounts, rear fenders using the GT kit, and inner longs. Possibly also the trailing arm mounts. I've heard good things about flashing the Subaru ECUs from friends & from reading online as well, so I will attempt to use that before going with an aftermarket ECU. Also, I will do more research about JDM parts and the difficulties of finding them, I just assumed they were the same as USDM.

Rear fenders dont take the load you think(ALA GT kit is essentially useless in that regard). The suspension mount takes load, and trailing arm mount takes load. Its also good to put a bar between firewall and trailing arm ear after reinforcing the ear.

Longs need the most reinforcement. The inner reinforcement is the best, followed by an outer, and all superseded by a cage if you do that.

Sway bar reinf is a good idea in the front. Rear doesnt take much load if you even use a rear sway.

[Andyrew]

914 Forme said it all better than me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Francesco]

Thank you for all the advice. Will definitely be stiffening the inner longs & doing very minor rust repair, and then possibly outers as well, along with the sway bar. Will be ordering the engine in a couple weeks, may even start a build thread - I have a few plans to make this as track car as possible, while keeping it street still. Suspension is going out for powder coat as well. Here is a preemptive list of what to do to the body - let me know if I am forgetting anything:

TO DO LIST:
minor rust repair on hell hole, relocate battery to front
stiffen inner longs, GT kit, suspension console, sway bar, stitch weld rear coilover mounts on frame to prevent tearing.

[Francesco]

Also had another question, figured I'd ask it here. Car will obviously be raced on a track, and do not mind a stiff ride on the street. I was looking into the 23mm hollow torsion bars, but could not find anything on what that would equate in spring rate, as well as a proper matching rear spring rate to compliment that, and sway bar as well. Any ideas?