Another 2056 rebuild thread, It's Alive! Options

[nditiz1]

So I decided to start this reBuild thread to keep track of everything as well elicit help and possible things to watch out for. I haven't owned my Porsche a year and I have already killed the motor and taken it apart (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif). If you are unfamiliar I was in the process of upgrading my distributor and out of sheer luck dropped a valve on #2 which I eventually found out it started its life as #3. The 2056 was rebuilt by the PO before the PO I bought it from. With the help from you all and some nice vids/write ups I confidentially dropped the motor (much easier with dual carbs). I purchased a 4 bar 914 stand from a place that manufactures all types of engine stand mounts. I broke down the motor to the short block where I found no other damage except the broken valve. Piston #2 was slightly injured, but I felt as new P&C was the best approach. Mark (McMark) has been a huge help through the process, thanks Mark! Since I didn't build this motor nor have any specs really on what was inside I decided to check it was a 2056. The bore measure 96, the stroke measure 71. I was told it has a mild cam. No markings could be found on the front of the cam gear. I did some prelim measurements of lift and found it is not stock and that the intake and exhaust have different lifts.

With the motor down to the short block it was time to buy some parts. I bought new P&C's from AA pistons. They are the 96mm flat top ones with a valve relief. I ordered new 2.0 heads (AA piston HAM heads) from Len. I bought the type4store spacer kit, thorsten 10mm swivel feet adjusters, and had everything machined by a guy on the samba that lives in CA.

I replaced the RMS with a Sabo one and checked the endplay to be in spec. The parts needed for this was the Sabo RMS, felt washer, flywheel bearing, inner flywheel seal, and a 5 hole crush washer. I wasted one crush washer as I did not put any lubricant on the flywheel seal nor the RMS. Following the pelican article it states to make the flywheel bearing flush, but this leaves little to no room for the felt washer and actually made the washer deflect slightly when torqued. It is now set to the 3mm protrusion which is the thickness of the felt washer. The flywheel is still currently off. I asked about my clutch and pressure plate and they look new so I won't be replacing them. The engine seal rebuild kit I bought is the Victor Reinz one. It only comes with the crush washer so be sure you get the other parts if you do this job. Back to the rebuild kit it would be really nice if it came with a guide for what every seal/gasket was and where they fit.



The rebuild:

Replaced both the taco plate, oil filter, and oil plate.
Test fit the P&C.

I removed all 4 pistons from their cylinders to just check the rings. They all looked good to me, but with nothing to really compare them I'm really just guessing. I did not check the ring gap. Not sure what it is supposed to be. I rigged a setup with a dial gauge, type 1 deck height plate, 2 aluminum bars, and a micrometer. I used the dial gauge to get the exact top of the piston stroke. I checked through several revolutions. Before doing this I removed the distributor drive gear as Mark (914sixer) showed if yours is not 100% in the correct position you can torch the copper gear on the crank. Once I had achieved the top of the stroke I micro'd the depth and subtracted from the thickness of the deck height plate. I came up with 1.4mm for all 4 pistons. Unfortunately, with the cc of the heads and the valve relief it was putting me at a 8.1 C/R. This is leaving power on the table and I know with the valve relief in the pistons I can get a pretty shallow DH. I decided to take the jugs to a machine shop to have them mill .5mm (originally .4mm) off the bottom of the step. I will be running no gasket at the top nor the bottom of the jug. With a .9mm DH it will put me right at 8.5 C/R as the heads are 60cc and the relief is 2cc. This motor had been running at 8.1 (possibly, don't know the cc of the stock heads) which is probably why it didn't feel as powerful as I thought it should and as others commented on my old post the heads were leaking between them and the top of the cylinder.

So that is where everything stands right now. I hope to get the jugs back later this week as well as the blocks, rockers, and adjusters. Mark (914sixer), Brent (bbrock) and I are building similar motors.

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[nditiz1]

OK! haven't made any posts lately, but have made great progress. I managed to get the intake pushrods cut to the correct length. Since the exhaust lift is only slightly more than stock (.409) I was able to use the stock pushrods. The geometry still looked good. I got the everything buttoned up and rechecked the intake geometry and it looked good. With using the aluminum PRs I had to set the valve lash (.006/.008) so I lost a little lift, but they were still in the acceptable 5%. I may actually readjust the exhaust ones to .006 as I have seen with most mild cams. On to work on the oil pump. I had a Melling that needed to be removed - it was working, but a poor choice as it is steel. I got a Schadek 30mm from Herb on here (forgot handle) and while I think it is too big McMark runs them with great success (knows more than I (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ) and I have a gauge hooked up to see if the pressure will overload the relief. As long as it doesn't I will rock it. I put all the engine tin on and the fan shroud. I hit a snag with the alternator boot as I was unsure how it came off and ripped it. I sourced another one from Siagon71 (Bob). He is a cool guy and took me for a ride in his sweet 74 with a 2056 (FI). It ran good and pulled strong, its also a daily so that's even sweeter. Got all the heater system installed and had one hell of a time getting the heat exchangers back on - fitment very tight. McMark hooked me up with some nice 12mm (I think) locking copper nuts. I applied generous amounts of copper anitseize (good info from Len). After the engine was pretty much good to go I installed the clutch that was one there before as everyone said it still looked new. Mated that to my newly rebuilt tranny (Dr. Evil VA Clinic). The PO had built a nice little engine cart which I used to roll it over to the car. Success! Got the motor and Tranny bolted back up. Double checked all the electrical as well as installed my new dual post oil pressure switch hooked up to a grease gun hose out of the stock port. Once I was sure everything was in place I test fired the engine to try and build up oil pressure like Raby did in his rebuild video. Maybe I didn't give it enough time or maybe my plugs and carbs needed to be on, in any case I ventured on excited that it turned over. Reconnected the drive shafts to the tranny, installed the plugs, wires, and 123 distributor. Got the green light static timing set correctly. Next onto the Carbs. Sidenote* before installing the engine I made sure to run the fuel pump and rid the tank and lines of the November gas, almost 5 gallons. I had put the carbs away empty and dry with running brake cleaner through all the ports so I knew they were good. Last night I installed them and started putting the Tangerine Racing linkage back into place. With the end in sight I had to wait to attach the clutch cable, throttle, speedo and heater controls. Today gave me a few hours to put some fresh 93 octane in, hook up the fuel lines, muffler and triple check everything for its first start up. I primed the carbs and saw fuel so i knew the chambers were full. Triple checked all connections before the first fire up. SHES ALIVEEEEEE!!!!! She needed a little more priming, but then stayed running. I coaxed it along with a few bumps of throttle, but then it stayed running. I got a little worried when I started hearing some loud tapping sounds coming from both sides, like loud valve tapping. I shut it off and was going to check the valves but wanted to look things over one more time while running. I started her back up and the noise was present. I installed a screw on the passenger carb since the 123 doesn't use vaccuum, well you don't have to anyway. I bumped the throttle one more time before shutting it off and the noise died down. I did it again and it completely went away. I can only assume the oil had not gotten into all the passage ways. I let it idle for about 20 mins. My oil pressure started around 60 and by the end was around 25. Not sure if these numbers are too high. I think driving is more of what I need to check. The CHT did show as high as 300 on cyl 3. Can't remember if this is normal either for idle. I'll post the question for the experts. Whew that was a big update! Time for some beers and plan out the final items to get her driving again. Thanks for everyones help on here! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

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