Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

2 Pages V  1 2 >  
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> No Start, 1972 914 will not start
Mike1981
post May 13 2018, 08:13 AM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 21-July 14
From: Detroit MI
Member No.: 17,663
Region Association: Southern California



Hello teeners

Looking for some advice please

I have a 72 V8 conversion (I Know not a real 14)

Really fun to drive

I just tried to start it and I do get power to dash and radio but the fule pump cuts out and no crank when I turn the key to the full starting position.

The 2 things I have notice

1 Battery was low (Now Charging)
2 No cranking no clicking nothing.
3 Fuel pump cuts out
4 flashers tied to the e-brake keep flashing

could it be the e-brake sensor?
Clutch sensor/switch?
Starter?

ignition switch?

Checked all relays and fuses I can find
All seem good.

Thanks

Mike
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
IronHillRestorations
post May 13 2018, 06:10 PM
Post #2


I. I. R. C.
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,708
Joined: 18-March 03
From: West TN
Member No.: 439
Region Association: None



If you've got a strong battery and feel the starter is OK, pull the spark plugs; maybe you've got a foreign object in a cylinder
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
VaccaRabite
post May 13 2018, 08:00 PM
Post #3


En Garde!
**********

Group: Admin
Posts: 13,407
Joined: 15-December 03
From: Dallastown, PA
Member No.: 1,435
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



The starter draws a TON of power. A dead battery won't even pop the soliniod to engage the starter gear, even if you have enough juice to get some of the lights to work for a little while.

Before panicking, make sure the battery has a good charge and try again. Its likely just the battery.

Zach
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
r_towle
post May 13 2018, 08:25 PM
Post #4


Custom Member
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 24,501
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Taxachusetts
Member No.: 124
Region Association: North East States



There is no clutch sensor
There is no ebrake sensor.

Spring awakening, charge up the battery.

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mike1981
post May 14 2018, 03:04 PM
Post #5


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 21-July 14
From: Detroit MI
Member No.: 17,663
Region Association: Southern California



Thanks Everyone for your advice.

I measured 12.34 VDC on the battery.

Took it up to NAPA.

NAPA tested it saying it is still good but is discharged to 56%.

I have it on trickle charge 2AMP/hr hope it is the battery.

Mike
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mike1981
post May 15 2018, 02:54 PM
Post #6


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 21-July 14
From: Detroit MI
Member No.: 17,663
Region Association: Southern California



Hello

Charged Battery overnight.
It was reading 13.11 volts
Re-installed in car nothing no click no crank no sound.

Crawled under to the starter

12VDC on main lug

Shoved red lead of meter into yellow wire Ignition switch wire I believe

Grounded black lead onto door hinge keep

Turned the key...no power thru the ignition wire....

is there a relay between the ignition switch in the column and the starter?

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=222...ype=3&ifg=1
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mark Henry
post May 15 2018, 05:26 PM
Post #7


that's what I do!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,065
Joined: 27-December 02
From: Port Hope, Ontario
Member No.: 26
Region Association: Canada



First thing you always do, clean all the grounds, trans strap, all power connections, battery terminals, etc., then go from there.

Flashing E-lights makes me think you have a bad connection somewhere, it can do some funky poop.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mike1981
post May 15 2018, 05:55 PM
Post #8


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 21-July 14
From: Detroit MI
Member No.: 17,663
Region Association: Southern California



Good Advice

I will clean battery terminal as well as the ground strap

Thanks

Mike
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post May 16 2018, 01:12 PM
Post #9


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,356
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



I am not a believer in the hot start gizmo. Porsche didn't install it. These cars have started as built for years and years. I'm of the camp that a guy should just fix the real problem not add a Rube Goldberg device.

Before you get too concerned and start added stuff the car never had to fix a problem you haven't really discovered check the battery. If the battery is good do the Ed test. Take a set of "good" jumper cables, connect the positive lead to the battery and the positive post on the starter then the ground to the battery then the transaxle. Start the car. If this works change the battery cables. I chased a bad battery cable for a year, intermittent starts, slow cranking to no start condition. Replaced the stock cable that appeared perfect in every way. I would have used it on a concours car. Fixed the problem without adding the mystery problem solver do-dad.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jcd914
post May 16 2018, 03:48 PM
Post #10


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,081
Joined: 7-February 08
From: Sacramento, CA
Member No.: 8,684
Region Association: Northern California



A stock 72 had a starter interlock relay under the passenger seat that prevented starting the car without seat belts fastened.

Your car is not stock so who knows what has been done with the wiring to the starter.

Most car by now have probably had the starter interlock under the passenger seat bypassed. You can check under the passenger seat and see if the yellow and yellow/red wire have been connected together and have a good connection. You can also check for power (12v) on the yellow wire from the ignition switch in start position.

As others have said check for ground problems.

Jim

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
xperu
post May 16 2018, 03:51 PM
Post #11


TEXAS
***

Group: Members
Posts: 597
Joined: 13-June 06
From: League City Texas
Member No.: 6,213
Region Association: None



QUOTE(Mike1981 @ May 15 2018, 06:55 PM) *

Good Advice

I will clean battery terminal as well as the ground strap

Thanks

Mike

Not just the battery ground, but he body ground straps, disconnect the body straps and clean the connection area.
Example, the on at the exhaust heat shields area under the rear trunk.
I learned this from the forum years ago. Mike
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mike1981
post May 19 2018, 07:50 AM
Post #12


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 21-July 14
From: Detroit MI
Member No.: 17,663
Region Association: Southern California



Hello

Well I bought a new battery>

No crank no start

Replacced the ignition switch

No crank no start

Cleaned battery terminals no luck

Next I will begin cleaning all electrical connections with wire brushes.

I removed seat to check realy and found this...should it cut the connecton off and jump the 2 wires together?

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-17663-1526737807.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i273.photobucket.com-17663-1526737808.2.jpg)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rick 918-S
post May 19 2018, 07:02 PM
Post #13


Hey nice rack! -Celette
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,356
Joined: 30-December 02
From: Now in Superior WI
Member No.: 43
Region Association: Northstar Region



Check the relay board connections.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mike1981
post May 20 2018, 10:58 AM
Post #14


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 21-July 14
From: Detroit MI
Member No.: 17,663
Region Association: Southern California



Hello Everyone

I have been cleaning connectors and checking the realy board.

I am getting 12 volts into pin 1 from the ignition switch>

Pin 1 and outgoing Pin 6 ohm out with no resistance.
However no voltage out of pin 6

Checked all 3 relays (all Working)

Scrubbed every connector I could find

Any ideas?

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t&id=424733

User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jcd914
post May 20 2018, 12:05 PM
Post #15


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,081
Joined: 7-February 08
From: Sacramento, CA
Member No.: 8,684
Region Association: Northern California



The relay/circuit board in the engine compartment is just a pass through for the started circuit, none of the relays on the board have any impact on the started circuit.

When you are checking for voltage at pin 1 of the 14 pin connector and then again at pin 6 of the 12 pin connector, are the harnesses unplugged or are you back probing the connectors?
Some time a connection can be just strong enough to carry the small voltage of an ohm meter but looses connection with more voltage or load. Also some time the physical force of a connector moves thing enough to break a connection.

You can also test for voltage at the circuit through the panel by testing at T2 (II) or T4 (IV) of the FI socket on the board, both of them are tied to the same circuit.

If you apply power to the wire at pin 6 of the 12 pin connector does the starter crank?

Jim
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
MarkV
post May 20 2018, 01:07 PM
Post #16


Fear the Jack Stands
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,493
Joined: 15-January 03
From: Sunny Tucson, AZ
Member No.: 154
Region Association: None



Try smacking the starter with a hammer. The solenoid could be stuck or not making a good connection internally. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mark Henry
post May 20 2018, 02:40 PM
Post #17


that's what I do!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,065
Joined: 27-December 02
From: Port Hope, Ontario
Member No.: 26
Region Association: Canada



QUOTE(MarkV @ May 20 2018, 03:07 PM) *

Try smacking the starter with a hammer. The solenoid could be stuck or not making a good connection internally. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)


He said he has no power to the yellow wire when key is switched to start, so banging it won't help.

You have to follow the path and figure out why/where the power stops.

It's been years since I did a seat belt interlock, I don't know if that's the issue, but a search on "how to disable the seat belt interlock/buzzer" would give you the instructions and eliminate this point.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
worn
post May 20 2018, 02:52 PM
Post #18


can't remember
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,129
Joined: 3-June 11
From: Madison, WI
Member No.: 13,152
Region Association: Upper MidWest



I am sorry to tell you now that the seats slide off the rails: you don’t have to unbolt them. Did you disconnect the seat wire or did you find it that way?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mike1981
post May 20 2018, 04:44 PM
Post #19


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 21-July 14
From: Detroit MI
Member No.: 17,663
Region Association: Southern California



QUOTE(jcd914 @ May 20 2018, 02:05 PM) *

The relay/circuit board in the engine compartment is just a pass through for the started circuit, none of the relays on the board have any impact on the started circuit.

When you are checking for voltage at pin 1 of the 14 pin connector and then again at pin 6 of the 12 pin connector, are the harnesses unplugged or are you back probing the connectors?
Some time a connection can be just strong enough to carry the small voltage of an ohm meter but looses connection with more voltage or load. Also some time the physical force of a connector moves thing enough to break a connection.

You can also test for voltage at the circuit through the panel by testing at T2 (II) or T4 (IV) of the FI socket on the board, both of them are tied to the same circuit.

If you apply power to the wire at pin 6 of the 12 pin connector does the starter crank?

Jim


Hello Jim

Thanks for the help, I was checking for voltage with the harnesses unplugged.
I jambed a wire into the socket pin on the harness and turned the key getting voltage on Pin 1 of the 14 pin connector but no voltage from pin 6 of the 12 pin outgoing connector.

I think applying power to pin 6 is a good idea would i connect Plus 12 to pin 6 and the neg terminal to ground?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mike1981
post May 20 2018, 04:45 PM
Post #20


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 21-July 14
From: Detroit MI
Member No.: 17,663
Region Association: Southern California



QUOTE(worn @ May 20 2018, 04:52 PM) *

I am sorry to tell you now that the seats slide off the rails: you don’t have to unbolt them. Did you disconnect the seat wire or did you find it that way?



Thanks

Yes they do slide forward but I was looking for a relay under the seat and needed the room.

I found it disconnected I will cut it off and jump the leads together.

Thanks
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

2 Pages V  1 2 >
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 29th March 2024 - 08:09 AM