Head Studs |
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Head Studs |
SzoylentGreen |
May 25 2018, 08:42 AM
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#1
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 23-March 18 From: Bloomington IN Member No.: 21,994 Region Association: None |
Are the T4 and T1 head studs interchangeable?
I see to be having a hard time finding a T4 (78mm stroke, 5.5" rods) head stud kit, other than the $400 RaceWare kit. There are tons of T1 head stud kits avail, just checking if they'll work. |
Mark Henry |
May 25 2018, 09:23 AM
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#2
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
No.
LN also has ARP sets, I have .120 shim under mine with lots of thread left. |
jcd914 |
May 25 2018, 08:48 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,081 Joined: 7-February 08 From: Sacramento, CA Member No.: 8,684 Region Association: Northern California |
Are other than stock head studs required for a stroker motor?
Jim |
Mark Henry |
May 25 2018, 09:50 PM
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#4
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Are other than stock head studs required for a stroker motor? Jim He's got longer than stock rods, so he's going to need thick shims under the cylinders. I use 5.4 T1 rods and the stock studs can be used. I have nickies/JE's with those you need ARP for the correct clamping pressure. |
jcd914 |
May 25 2018, 10:11 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,081 Joined: 7-February 08 From: Sacramento, CA Member No.: 8,684 Region Association: Northern California |
Thanks Mark.
I asked because I have a motor that I was told has a stroker crank (75mm?) but it looks stock. Well the FI wiring and plumbing is terrible but the rest looks like a stock 1.7. Jim |
Mark Henry |
May 26 2018, 10:09 PM
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#6
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Thanks Mark. I asked because I have a motor that I was told has a stroker crank (75mm?) but it looks stock. Well the FI wiring and plumbing is terrible but the rest looks like a stock 1.7. Jim Measure the throws, with a caliper you can eyeball it, 75mm would be an odd size. Stock is 66 and 71mm, most strokers will be 78, 80 or 82mm. Most strokers will also have counterweights, but not all, some racers didn't add CW's. |
jcd914 |
May 26 2018, 10:21 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,081 Joined: 7-February 08 From: Sacramento, CA Member No.: 8,684 Region Association: Northern California |
Thanks Mark. I asked because I have a motor that I was told has a stroker crank (75mm?) but it looks stock. Well the FI wiring and plumbing is terrible but the rest looks like a stock 1.7. Jim Measure the throws, with a caliper you can eyeball it, 75mm would be an odd size. Stock is 66 and 71mm, most strokers will be 78, 80 or 82mm. Most strokers will also have counterweights, but not all, some racers didn't add CW's. I don't have it apart right now and won't anytime soon. It is a motor that came with my car and I only know what I was told. He had the crank stroked and counter weighted. He kept the bore original 1.7 size but with new P&C's. He said the displacement was 1908 with this combination. He had it running on megasquirt and liked the performance. Car was apart when I bought it and I have a stock 2.0 going in initially. After I sort out the rest of the car I'll decide what to do with the other engine. Jim |
SzoylentGreen |
May 26 2018, 11:12 PM
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#8
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 4 Joined: 23-March 18 From: Bloomington IN Member No.: 21,994 Region Association: None |
Any sources of head studs other than Raceware or ARP?
I’m building a fairly conservative T4 turbo (looking for about 175 - 195 hp), so I’m only going to be pushing low boost. I’m not building a 400HP monster like the Raceware is designed for. Does anyone make some standard chrome-moly head studs for the T4? I’m not really comfortable re-using 45 year old rusty head studs, and I don’t think I really have a need that justifies $400 Raceware head studs. BTW, I’ll be using 96mm biral cylinders, so these should have a similar thermal expansion coefficient to the stock iron cylinders. Nickies would of course be nice, but I’m not paying $4000 a set. |
Mark Henry |
May 27 2018, 11:06 AM
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#9
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
Any sources of head studs other than Raceware or ARP? I’m building a fairly conservative T4 turbo (looking for about 175 - 195 hp), so I’m only going to be pushing low boost. I’m not building a 400HP monster like the Raceware is designed for. Does anyone make some standard chrome-moly head studs for the T4? I’m not really comfortable re-using 45 year old rusty head studs, and I don’t think I really have a need that justifies $400 Raceware head studs. BTW, I’ll be using 96mm biral cylinders, so these should have a similar thermal expansion coefficient to the stock iron cylinders. Nickies would of course be nice, but I’m not paying $4000 a set. No, stock studs are more than strong enough so there's not a big market for them. LN only really sells the ARP studs for nickies, it has little to do with strength, it's more of a compatible clamping force for the alunimum cylinders of nickies. |
Bills914-4 |
May 28 2018, 11:00 AM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 310 Joined: 1-March 08 From: suburbs of Miami FL. Member No.: 8,762 Region Association: South East States |
Here's some from EMW (European Motor Works)
if their to long you can cut them down , these are 12mm on the bottom and 10mm at the other end , they D NOT require timeserts http://www.europeanmotorworks.com/mm5/merc...-4-head-spacers |
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