2056 oil pump, Consensus on which offers best flow heat reduction |
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2056 oil pump, Consensus on which offers best flow heat reduction |
nditiz1 |
Jun 8 2018, 04:55 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 26-May 15 From: Mount Airy, Maryland Member No.: 18,763 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
What are you 2056 guys running for oil pump? Stock? Schadek 26? Schadek 30? Type 1 30?
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aggiezig |
Jun 8 2018, 05:13 PM
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#2
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Porsche Wannabe Group: Members Posts: 319 Joined: 13-January 16 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 19,557 Region Association: Southern California |
My builder re-used the original pump. He said it was one of the best options at the time as long as it was in good shape. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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TheCabinetmaker |
Jun 8 2018, 06:30 PM
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#3
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I drive my car everyday Group: Members Posts: 8,300 Joined: 8-May 03 From: Tulsa, Ok. Member No.: 666 |
Stock pump. Temp is always good.
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Valy |
Jun 10 2018, 12:05 AM
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#4
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,676 Joined: 6-April 10 From: Sunnyvale, CA Member No.: 11,573 Region Association: Northern California |
If you have a good stock pump then stick with it.
If not, look for a type 1 pump with aluminum body. You will have to trim it's activation tab a bit to fit. |
North Coast Jim |
Jun 10 2018, 02:15 PM
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#5
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Member Group: Members Posts: 323 Joined: 11-December 15 From: Northern Ohio Member No.: 19,450 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
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saigon71 |
Jun 10 2018, 02:48 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,999 Joined: 1-June 09 From: Dillsburg, PA Member No.: 10,428 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
I stayed with the stock pump on my 2056 build.
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porschetub |
Jun 10 2018, 03:08 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,701 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
The stock pumps are pretty good if not worn,they don't suffer from wear as much as the type 1 pumps due to the T4's heaving a proper oil filtration system.
My understanding was the T1 pump (26/30mm Schadek) needs to have inlet and outlet ports modified to suit the T4 case,do a search on the Samba there is lots of oil pump info on there,generally most on there said the Mellings cast iron pump will leak. |
Literati914 |
Jun 10 2018, 04:41 PM
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#8
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,461 Joined: 16-November 06 From: Dallas, TX Member No.: 7,222 Region Association: Southwest Region |
MellingHigh capacity Oil Pump. Fits with no mods needed. Good service to date with engine having 1500 miles it now. I've been away from 914s for a while but Melling High Capacity were very popular in the past, I thought they were still a given. My first 914 got one in '94 without any other real engine work (think I was doing a clutch job) - as a recommendation from a respected forum member, just for the security it provided. I was planning on one for the used 2056 I picked up recently. |
Mark Henry |
Jun 10 2018, 05:24 PM
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#9
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
I agree the stock pump is OK but close to half I inspect are trashed. They should be taken apart and inspected, new Oring and inspected for thrust play, should be not much more than .003". I've also seen issue with the free gear shaft backing out of the housing.
It can also have issues with the body bolts clearing the cam bolts on aftermarket cam gears. Melling's I have no use for, cast iron body has a different expansion rate to the AL case and the leak people talk about is internal, leak inside the case where you can't see it. Melling and the shadeck 30mm the gears are too big, if you want to run a pump this size you should have a pressure relief cover. I'd only recommend the 30mm on cars running a front cooler, again with a relief cover. The shadeck 26mm is the one I'd recommend for a T1 pump, it's what I have on my 2.6L T4 in my bug. But it also must be inspected as some were undersized to the case pump hole. On the type one case I Oring the pump but this can't be done on a T4 as there's not enough meat in the T4 case bore. What I've done is paint a thin ring of threebond around the far side of the case pump bore just the last .100". To do this everything has to be spotless clean of oil. The driven shaft area of the pump body (nose) must be cut down a bit so it doesn't hit the cam drive area. The shaft also need to be pressed to ensure full engagement of the drive tang, but not so far that it bottoms out in the cam drive slot. All this is best done during assembly dry fitting. I only use steel/iron covers on T1 pumps as the gears will drill into AL covers. You can use a full flow cover for this even if you're not doing FF, by plugging the outlet on the cover. |
aggiezig |
Jun 10 2018, 06:09 PM
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#10
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Porsche Wannabe Group: Members Posts: 319 Joined: 13-January 16 From: Los Angeles, CA Member No.: 19,557 Region Association: Southern California |
There’s a lot of really great info in Mark’s post. Thanks for sharing.
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nditiz1 |
Jun 10 2018, 11:12 PM
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#11
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,188 Joined: 26-May 15 From: Mount Airy, Maryland Member No.: 18,763 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Thanks for that good info Mark!
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Al Meredith |
Jun 11 2018, 10:43 AM
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#12
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 960 Joined: 4-November 04 From: Atlanta, ga Member No.: 3,061 |
I have a 2056 and I know a stock pump is OK . But I have cam followers with a small bleed hole in the face of the follower to lube the cam lobe . When the oil is hot ( about
200 deg F) it idles at between 5 and 10 PSI with the big Pump . Without these 8 extra oil holes I would recommend the the std pump ,but at idle I need the bigger one. |
barefoot |
Jun 11 2018, 01:34 PM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,275 Joined: 19-March 13 From: Charleston SC Member No.: 15,673 Region Association: South East States |
For my 2056 both stock pumps i had were junk. so bought a Mod type 1 pump from CB,their 1829 Maxi Pump 1 -914/ Type4 it was only $58. I had to slightly clearance the backside for cam gear bolt head clearance. it works just fine
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