Projects on my new, to me. 1974 914-6 Options

[jerhofer]

Your project looks great and it's a fun read the way you are documenting this build.

One thing I did notice: I'd recommend some kind of burp tank off of the oil filler neck where you have the small air filter. I had a little K & N filter like yours and eventually it filled up with enough oil to get a bit messy. I used a 911 washer bottle that rides right below that area. It basically sits there, the braided hose holds it in place.

"The devil is in the details."

Carry on.

I will look into that. Thanks for the tip.

[jerhofer]

We are supposed to get a bunch of snow this weekend so I spent the morning getting fuel for the generator and making a run to Sam's.

This afternoon, i removed the muffler and unhooked everything from the transmission. I also removed the starter. The support stands and the transmission jack are in place. Tomorrow I can separate the transmission and shim the clutch fork ball. Hopefully, I can just slide it back with the CV's in place as Brad suggested.

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[mepstein]

Looking good.

I have a son in NC and a daughter in Maine. The daughter doesn’t even mention snow unless it’s more than a couple feet. Son works from home if they see flurries.

[jerhofer]

Looking good.

I have a son in NC and a daughter in Maine. The daughter doesn’t even mention snow unless it’s more than a couple feet. Son works from home if they see flurries.

We are originally from northern Indiana. It is hilarious how freaked out people here become by snow. We probably won't be able to watch normal programming on local TV as the weather people will take over and be in seventh heaven.

They are saying we could get 8" of snow and potentially lots of ice as well. That is a lot for the Charlotte area. We will be staying home if it snows that much as being on the road is not the place to be with the local drivers. It will be interesting to see how our dog deals with that much snow!!!

[jerhofer]

No sacrifice is to great when doing a car project!!!

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Separating the transmission from the engine went smoothly today. Brad's suggestion that I could slide the transmission rearward with the axles attached was correct. There is plenty of room to work on the clutch fork.


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Removing the ball is another story. My neighbor had a fairly thin 14mm deep well socket but it wasn't even close to fitting into the area around the ball.


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I spent a couple hours using a skill knife to make that area around the ball larger.. to no avail. I can now get the socket in there but not far enough for it to catch. I was tired of scraping and called it a day.


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My next door neighbor is in charge of service for a large car dealership. I called him to see if any of his guys might have a thin wall 14mm socket. He is bringing a couple home for me to try. I have also ordered a new ball as this one already has the edges somewhat compromised.

[t collins]

No sacrifice is to great when doing a car project!!!

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Separating the transmission from the engine went smoothly today. Brad's suggestion that I could slide the transmission rearward with the axles attached was correct. There is plenty of room to work on the clutch fork.


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Removing the ball is another story. My neighbor had a fairly thin 14mm deep well socket but it wasn't even close to fitting into the area around the ball.


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I spent a couple hours using a skill knife to make that area around the ball larger.. to no avail. I can now get the socket in there but not far enough for it to catch. I was tired of scraping and called it a day.


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My next door neighbor is in charge of service for a large car dealership. I called him to see if any of his guys might have a thin wall 14mm socket. He is bringing a couple home for me to try. I have also ordered a new ball as this one already has the edges somewhat compromised.

I took an old socket and turned the O.D. down on the lathe. You could do the same on the bench grinder if you're careful.

[jerhofer]

[/quote]
I took an old socket and turned the O.D. down on the lathe. You could do the same on the bench grinder if you're careful.
[/quote]

Brad Mayeur suggested the same thing. I don't use a 14mm socket very often so I didn't have an extra one. Brad mentioned buying a cheap socket to grind. It worked. The helicoil came out with the pivot ball.


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Brad suggested beginning with a 1mm shim, which, as you can see by the calipers, is not very much. He said a little makes a big difference. I found two thin washers that equaled 1.45mm. They also fit in the recessed area, although I don't think they would have without my enlarging the area yesterday.

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[jerhofer]

The shims worked!!

[Larmo63]

Great news, just in time to drive it in the snow!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[jerhofer]

I had tried to install the sway bar links a couple days ago to no avail. After thinking about it, I decided to remove the shock absorber nut and slide the shaft out. In my "special tools" drawer, I found one that I thought would work by grabbing the rear of the shock mount. It worked well as I was able to press the link onto the ball.

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Since I had the throttle cable detached when I pulled the transmission, I wanted to make sure the butterflies were opening all the way. Since my wife wasn't in the garage with me, I decided to use my camera. I fastened the lens to the throttle body with a couple of zip ties. By snaking the monitor around inside the cab, I could see when the butterflies were open completely.

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In anticipation of starting the car, I removed the tape on the throttle bodies and borrowed six of our dog's tennis balls. She is a ball playing fool and loves her tennis balls.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MawbMOLwJis


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Now I was ready to start the car. I put in a call to Richard Clewett. While I was waiting for his return call, I cleaned the floorpan.

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Richard returned my call just as I was finishing up cleaning the floorpan. I have a Mac Pro laptop. Since Electromotive's software is only Windows compatible, I had to download a program called Parallels that allows me to operate either out of Windows or IOS. I also had to download a program called TeamViewer so Richard could take over my computer to set the parameters for initial startup. I had him on speakerphone as he went from window to window inputting data.

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I set the fuel pressure at 50psi and we were ready to start the engine. I turned the key and the starter went "clunk". I am not sure what the problem is but wonder if it is related to the Kennedy flywheel and clutch. I am going to pull the starter tomorrow to get to the ring gear. I want to see if I can turn the engine with a prybar. Richard asked if the engine was free and I said it was based on turning it to set the valve clearance. He asked if I had tried to turn the motor over once I had the transmission hooked up and I had not thought of doing this. I also wonder if the starter gear needs to be shimmed because of the Kennedy flywheel.

So no go today. We also discovered that all the sensors are reporting for duty except the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I will troubleshoot that tomorrow as well. I am disappointed that we could not start the motor but I understand that there are many variables in putting this thing back together.

[Cairo94507]

Man, you are so close. I would have a hard time sleeping knowing you are going to hear that beauty fire-up. I will keep my fingers crossed that the starter issue and TPS are just minor issues you quickly resolve. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jerhofer]

Not long after we got our first motorhome a little over four years ago, we began pulling a 2013 Fiat 500 Abarth behind it four wheels down. We loved that car and it was trouble free. After three years, we had put a number of miles on it, so we sold it and bought a low mileage certified 2017 in the same model. Because we bought the same car, all of my towing gear just needed to be transferred from one car to the other.

Not too long after I got the 2017 I noticed that it was using a lot more oil than the 2013 did. I began charting it and it was down to less than 700 miles before I had to add a quart. On the 2013 I usually added a quart between oil changes. I took it to the local Fiat dealer who couldn't find anything. So they marked the dipstick and told me to bring it back after driving it 600 miles as they evidently did not believe I knew how to count. I took it back with 600 miles and it was a quart low. So this morning I had to take it in where they will tear it down to see what the issue is. I have been told that I will probably be getting a new motor.

That trip combined with some Christmas shopping took up the morning. After getting into the garage after lunch, the first thing I did was to get out my troubleshooting camera. By looking into the clutch fork hole, I could see that the flywheel is very close. I also have a concern about the bolts I used on the pressure plate. I wanted to use 12.9 hardness bolts and the only ones I could fine were allen bolts with 8mm heads.


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I then pulled the starter. Here again I could see the ring gear was very close but it was clearing. The allen head bolt is visible here as well. I used the camera here as well. I put a pry bar on the ring gear and nothing moved.

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This is a Kennedy Engineering flywheel and pressure plate. I called them and they said the bolts could be the problem. The way to check that is to loosen the bolts and pull the transmission back a bit and see if I can turn the engine over. They did confirm that the stock starter works with their flywheel. I had the starter checked out prior to installing it and it passed with flying colors. Looks like it will come apart again!!


One other thing I have a question on. Can anyone tell me what this lead coming off the batter cable goes to?

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[IronHillRestorations]

That battery cable is a generic parts store cable that has that extra lead coming off, so it doesn't go to anything

[jerhofer]

That battery cable is a generic parts store cable that has that extra lead coming off, so it doesn't go to anything

Thanks.

[jerhofer]

I pulled the tranny again. I was able to turn the motor using a pry bar on the ring gear. Using a wood dowel ( I kept it out of the engine this time!!!), I did an approximate measurement of the position of the allen bolt head. There are three places in the casting where there is less clearance. As you can see in the photo below, clearing those areas with the allen bolt would be close.

I found some 10.9 hardened bolts at our local Ace hardware. As you can see in the photo below, the new bolt's head is almost half as thick as the allen bolt. While I was in there, I added another shim to the clutch fork ball as I was nearly out of adjustment to get it to work. These three shims placed the clutch fork almost exactly in the middle of the hole.


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I put everything back together, removed the positive lead from the fuel pump, and cranked the ignition. CLUNK!! I switched the wire that goes to one of the starter spades and tried it again. CLUNK!! That was disappointing.

The car came with two starters. Last summer, I took both of them to a local electrical shop and had them tested. They both passed. One was dirty and one was clean. I put the clean one in the car. Now I am thinking I may have a starter problem. I dug out the dirty one and cleaned it up. By the looks of it, I would assume it was the one that was on the car.


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By this time, it was late in the day and I was tired of messing with the car. So tomorrow I will change out the starter. If it goes clunk again, I will want to tear out my hair, if I had any!! I do these projects to stay busy during my retirement so I should be happy that I am having problems. Somehow, that thought doesn't comfort me.

[pete000]

You can easily bench test the starter by mounting it in a vice and hitting the pole with a jumper cable. if you just jump the lug the starter will just spin, if you jump the spade and the lug the starter will extend and spin. I recently tested mine this way and it was working properly. There are a few crude YouTube videos on how to test a starter.

Also verify the battery is working properly as well.

Another long shot could be a broken ignition switch. They can crack causing starter problems. Common problem with 914 column ignitions.

[jerhofer]

You can easily bench test the starter by mounting it in a vice and hitting the pole with a jumper cable. if you just jump the lug the starter will just spin, if you jump the spade and the lug the starter will extend and spin. I recently tested mine this way and it was working properly. There are a few crude YouTube videos on how to test a starter.

Also verify the battery is working properly as well.

Another long shot could be a broken ignition switch. They can crack causing starter problems. Common problem with 914 column ignitions.

Thanks for the tips. I will try test with both starters tomorrow. The battery is new and charged.

I have been having some strange issues with the ignition switch. For one, the wipers come on and make one pass when I turn the ignition on. Also, there is a red light on the dash that flashes continuously. I haven't tried to troubleshoot these issues earlier as I was waiting until I had everything plugged in in the engine bay. I talked with Ed yesterday and mentioned these two things to him. It has been thirteen years since he drove the car but he did not remember either of these two issues.


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[Larmo63]

Is the flashing red light your emergency brake light?

Mine flashes in the gauge when it's pulled.

Just a guess.

[Dave_Darling]

The light in the image looks like a CAT or EGR light from a 75-76 car. Might be one re-used for a different purpose, or might just be a light in a similar spot.

What warning lights do you have in your gauges? What color wires connect to that light; do they look like authentic 40-year-old German wires?

--DD

[IronHillRestorations]

The red light is a custom light for either low fuel or brake warning.

added: Red is parking brake, or low brake pressure; green means go get gas