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> MicroSquirt keeps cooking the wasted spark, Can someone help me look at the datalog?
Bills914-4
post Aug 13 2018, 01:42 PM
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QUOTE(cary @ Aug 13 2018, 09:50 AM) *

Subscribed ..............

We want 3mm or less of clearance , I'm fairly certain I set it at 3mm.


I remember adjusting mine closer , I checked DIYautotune
www.diyautotune.com/product/hall-effect-crankshaft-position-sensor/

Maximum air gap: 5 mm
Note that this is an absolute maximum. For most trigger wheels, operation is most reliable at a 1.0 to 1.5 mm air gap.
The trigger wheel must be at least 2 mm wide, the teeth and gaps at least 2 mm wide, and the gaps at least 2 mm deep.


Bill D.
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cary
post Aug 13 2018, 07:19 PM
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Mike here's a shot while we were building the coil mount.
Attached Image

The yellow arrow shows you where Matt and I discussed adding an air gap and or heat sink fins. Right now the coil is sitting flush on the mount we created.
Attached Image
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Mblizzard
post Aug 13 2018, 07:41 PM
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QUOTE(cary @ Aug 13 2018, 05:19 PM) *

Mike here's a shot while we were building the coil mount.
Attached Image

The yellow arrow shows you where Matt and I discussed adding an air gap and or heat sink fins. Right now the coil is sitting flush on the mount we created.
Attached Image


I bet that helps a lot. It is a amazing how much a bit of space stops heat transfer.
I just added the DIY Autotune Quadspark and performance coil. Real improvement on my engine but the VW coil ran my 2056 just fine.
This gets the igniters out of the heat which seems to work better.
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VaccaRabite
post Aug 14 2018, 09:01 AM
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I like that coil design. Clean and simple.

McMark's kit uses 4 coil packs located right next to the park plugs, with very short leads. Its way trick, but you need small hands to get all the fasteners (or meat hooks like I've got and deal with bloody knuckles and some cussing.)

Marks design, though, does give a nice clean run for the crank sensor wire more or less free from spark plug noise. Even so, we used a shielded wire to ensure the signal made the run without dropping.

Zach
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Matty900
post Aug 14 2018, 11:55 AM
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QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Aug 14 2018, 08:01 AM) *

I like that coil design. Clean and simple.

McMark's kit uses 4 coil packs located right next to the park plugs, with very short leads. Its way trick, but you need small hands to get all the fasteners (or meat hooks like I've got and deal with bloody knuckles and some cussing.)

Marks design, though, does give a nice clean run for the crank sensor wire more or less free from spark plug noise. Even so, we used a shielded wire to ensure the signal made the run without dropping.

Zach

Love to see some pictures of that set up. Sounds cool and a lot cleaner on at least a few levels.
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Chris914n6
post Aug 14 2018, 03:22 PM
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QUOTE(Matty900 @ Aug 14 2018, 10:55 AM) *

QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Aug 14 2018, 08:01 AM) *

I like that coil design. Clean and simple.

McMark's kit uses 4 coil packs located right next to the park plugs, with very short leads. Its way trick, but you need small hands to get all the fasteners (or meat hooks like I've got and deal with bloody knuckles and some cussing.)

Marks design, though, does give a nice clean run for the crank sensor wire more or less free from spark plug noise. Even so, we used a shielded wire to ensure the signal made the run without dropping.

Zach

Love to see some pictures of that set up. Sounds cool and a lot cleaner on at least a few levels.

I think he uses LS1 coils. It would be even cleaner to find a coil on plug but the bracket might get interesting if the grommet doesn't hold it secure.
That being said, I don't think it's related to your problem. Longshot but Dad would always check for bad soldering on the board, as it could show those symptoms as circuits heat and cool while working. I've actually seen it in action on an E36 with intermittent blower function as the factory fuses are 3 piece and lost solid internal contact.
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falcor75
post Aug 14 2018, 10:49 PM
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Attached Image

Here's how I mounted my LS2 coils. Nutserts into the rear firewall and then male/female threaded rubber mounts.
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jd74914
post Aug 15 2018, 07:54 AM
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QUOTE(cary @ Aug 13 2018, 08:50 AM) *

Subscribed ..............

We want 3mm or less of clearance , I'm fairly certain I set it at 3mm.

Do you have any oscilloscope to scope it with?

My experience has been that Microsquirt has extremely poor signal conditioning and has a really hard time with less-than-perfect VR or even Hall signals**.

Hall effect sensors can also have this unfortunate trait of switching the trigger side and getting off phase; you might have that issue resulting in some trigger confusion. This is actually why people often recommend VR sensors on high end systems with good filtering capability.

**I fully realize that sounds stupid since a hall sensor should be outputting a square wave but I've never really been happy with uS.
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Matty900
post Aug 16 2018, 02:16 AM
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QUOTE(jd74914 @ Aug 15 2018, 06:54 AM) *

QUOTE(cary @ Aug 13 2018, 08:50 AM) *

Subscribed ..............

We want 3mm or less of clearance , I'm fairly certain I set it at 3mm.

Do you have any oscilloscope to scope it with?

My experience has been that Microsquirt has extremely poor signal conditioning and has a really hard time with less-than-perfect VR or even Hall signals**.

Hall effect sensors can also have this unfortunate trait of switching the trigger side and getting off phase; you might have that issue resulting in some trigger confusion. This is actually why people often recommend VR sensors on high end systems with good filtering capability.

**I fully realize that sounds stupid since a hall sensor should be outputting a square wave but I've never really been happy with uS.

I was able to get lots of advice from Mario and others on some of the Megasquirt and tuner facebook groups. At this point, I have ordered another hall sensor and we will be pulling the motor to replace it if needed. The thought is that it may have become loose and is too far or too close to the wheel. At that time we will also shield the wires to try and protect against any interference that could be contributing to the problem (Now or in the future) What we understood was that the hall sensor should be mounted 3mm from the trigger wheel and it should be 1mm. One of the people that responded on the facebook group said I just went through the exact same thing with a clients car at the shop. Move it to 1mm and problem solved. So I am hopeful that this will do the trick. It also allows us to address a pesky oil leak while the motor is out.
So cross your fingers for me, everyone. Hopefully, we will be running solid again and ready for Dyno tuning soon
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VaccaRabite
post Aug 16 2018, 07:02 AM
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While its easier to fix with the engine out, you should be able to do with the engine still in the car. I've lowered the engine support bar and loosened but not removed the trans mounts to allow the engine to pivot. From that point its just a process of finding a comfortable way to hang out under the car and do the work. Easy if you have a lift, less easy if you are using jackstands and a creeper like me. But it DOES save a lot of time. I replaced an oil pump that way once (or rather retrieved the dizzy screw the feel through the tiny hole in the dizzy well and landed behind the oil pump. Fun times.)

If I had pulled the engine it would have taken at least 2 days. w/o pulling the engine it only took a few hours.
Zach
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