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> Went to change a broken clutch cable, discovered car has cancer, bit emotional at this moment. Knew it was coming, didn't expect the scope
SirAndy
post Sep 22 2018, 03:30 PM
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You got lucky, whoever said your car was surprisingly rust free was spot on ...
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burton73
post Sep 22 2018, 04:16 PM
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Dude your car really is not that bad. Something you should get a look at you clutch tube inside the tunnel as that may lead you to do some pan work if the welds are broken inside of the tunnel. It can be fixed in different ways but opening up the bottom is the cleanest way to get full access It seems that most cars if driven enough over the years have this problem. A design flaw from Porsche. Not a rust problem but a stress problem on the welds holding the clutch tube in.

Looks like you are having a fun time with your 914.

Bob B
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bbrock
post Sep 22 2018, 10:26 PM
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QUOTE(davebrossi @ Sep 22 2018, 02:33 PM) *

Now for a stupid question (I always have many.) I don't suppose restoration design's metal is galvanized? I mean, part of me is hoping, but that's a whole lot of extra expense even if they've got the market cornered.


Even better. They are galvannealed. I just posted this pic on my build thread a couple days ago. A storm front came through the day I finished blasting my car and flash rust set in to the engine compartment, but look at those RD parts. They are the ones laughing at the rust. Really good stuff.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20845-1537497511_thumb.jpg)
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davebrossi
post Sep 22 2018, 11:06 PM
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QUOTE(bbrock @ Sep 22 2018, 10:26 PM) *

QUOTE(davebrossi @ Sep 22 2018, 02:33 PM) *

Now for a stupid question (I always have many.) I don't suppose restoration design's metal is galvanized? I mean, part of me is hoping, but that's a whole lot of extra expense even if they've got the market cornered.


Even better. They are galvannealed. I just posted this pic on my build thread a couple days ago. A storm front came through the day I finished blasting my car and flash rust set in to the engine compartment, but look at those RD parts. They are the ones laughing at the rust. Really good stuff.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20845-1537497511_thumb.jpg)


Very happy to hear this! If I have to replace every panel of the car in the process so be it, I know that as value goes, there's going to be a point where the 'value' of the car tanks, but that's OK, I'd like to still be driving it when that happens (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) Especially since I'm starting with the big ugly floor pans.
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davebrossi
post Sep 22 2018, 11:14 PM
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QUOTE(burton73 @ Sep 22 2018, 04:16 PM) *

Dude your car really is not that bad. Something you should get a look at you clutch tube inside the tunnel as that may lead you to do some pan work if the welds are broken inside of the tunnel. It can be fixed in different ways but opening up the bottom is the cleanest way to get full access It seems that most cars if driven enough over the years have this problem. A design flaw from Porsche. Not a rust problem but a stress problem on the welds holding the clutch tube in.

Looks like you are having a fun time with your 914.

Bob B


Hi Bob!

I may have gone overboard and bought a 5000 watt A/C Inverter with the intention of using my random orbital sander to get as much gunk out as possible. A dustpan and brush wouldn't hurt at this point too. Ultimately the extent of the rust on the upper and lower portions of the driver's side means I could A.) source just those two sections from a donor car, which would possibly lead to a new weld seam (which means nothing, I'm a layperson with welding, it'd just be different than the design) or B.) put in Restoration Design upper and lowers and have that small pin hole in the firewall stitched shut. Focus for me now is to try and tidy it all up. I'm leaning towards B specifically because of the concern over the weld points on the clutch cable tube, and also because I'm wanting to see what else might've gone wrong in there. The cross member between upper and lower pans and the tunnel the clutch cable and assorted items pass through are both in great shape, and I still have high hopes for the longitudinals.

I'm also hoping this 5000 watt A/C inverter with marine battery will power my compressor. It says it's rated to a 1.5. hp compressor, I've got a 2 hp. It'd mean no relay race to power an angle grinder. Lord knows I could've bought the two new pans for the price I paid for the inverter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)
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bbrock
post Sep 23 2018, 03:26 PM
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QUOTE(davebrossi @ Sep 22 2018, 11:14 PM) *

QUOTE(burton73 @ Sep 22 2018, 04:16 PM) *

Dude your car really is not that bad. Something you should get a look at you clutch tube inside the tunnel as that may lead you to do some pan work if the welds are broken inside of the tunnel. It can be fixed in different ways but opening up the bottom is the cleanest way to get full access It seems that most cars if driven enough over the years have this problem. A design flaw from Porsche. Not a rust problem but a stress problem on the welds holding the clutch tube in.

Looks like you are having a fun time with your 914.

Bob B


Hi Bob!

I may have gone overboard and bought a 5000 watt A/C Inverter with the intention of using my random orbital sander to get as much gunk out as possible. A dustpan and brush wouldn't hurt at this point too. Ultimately the extent of the rust on the upper and lower portions of the driver's side means I could A.) source just those two sections from a donor car, which would possibly lead to a new weld seam (which means nothing, I'm a layperson with welding, it'd just be different than the design) or B.) put in Restoration Design upper and lowers and have that small pin hole in the firewall stitched shut. Focus for me now is to try and tidy it all up. I'm leaning towards B specifically because of the concern over the weld points on the clutch cable tube, and also because I'm wanting to see what else might've gone wrong in there. The cross member between upper and lower pans and the tunnel the clutch cable and assorted items pass through are both in great shape, and I still have high hopes for the longitudinals.

I'm also hoping this 5000 watt A/C inverter with marine battery will power my compressor. It says it's rated to a 1.5. hp compressor, I've got a 2 hp. It'd mean no relay race to power an angle grinder. Lord knows I could've bought the two new pans for the price I paid for the inverter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)


One deciding factor for me would be if my replacement patches needed to include areas around the edges that attach to the bottoms of the longs or under the rear firewall. If not, then the welding could be done from inside the car. If they do, then you will need to get the car up high enough to work from underneath, or best, get it on a rotisserie so you can turn it on its side. At that point, I think it would be easier to install an RD floor. Here's a great video installing one to give you an idea of what is involved. Notice that you still end up with two butt weld seams.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kMOMNhxg-A

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davebrossi
post Sep 23 2018, 03:44 PM
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QUOTE(bbrock @ Sep 23 2018, 03:26 PM) *

QUOTE(davebrossi @ Sep 22 2018, 11:14 PM) *

QUOTE(burton73 @ Sep 22 2018, 04:16 PM) *

Dude your car really is not that bad. Something you should get a look at you clutch tube inside the tunnel as that may lead you to do some pan work if the welds are broken inside of the tunnel. It can be fixed in different ways but opening up the bottom is the cleanest way to get full access It seems that most cars if driven enough over the years have this problem. A design flaw from Porsche. Not a rust problem but a stress problem on the welds holding the clutch tube in.

Looks like you are having a fun time with your 914.

Bob B


Hi Bob!

I may have gone overboard and bought a 5000 watt A/C Inverter with the intention of using my random orbital sander to get as much gunk out as possible. A dustpan and brush wouldn't hurt at this point too. Ultimately the extent of the rust on the upper and lower portions of the driver's side means I could A.) source just those two sections from a donor car, which would possibly lead to a new weld seam (which means nothing, I'm a layperson with welding, it'd just be different than the design) or B.) put in Restoration Design upper and lowers and have that small pin hole in the firewall stitched shut. Focus for me now is to try and tidy it all up. I'm leaning towards B specifically because of the concern over the weld points on the clutch cable tube, and also because I'm wanting to see what else might've gone wrong in there. The cross member between upper and lower pans and the tunnel the clutch cable and assorted items pass through are both in great shape, and I still have high hopes for the longitudinals.

I'm also hoping this 5000 watt A/C inverter with marine battery will power my compressor. It says it's rated to a 1.5. hp compressor, I've got a 2 hp. It'd mean no relay race to power an angle grinder. Lord knows I could've bought the two new pans for the price I paid for the inverter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)


One deciding factor for me would be if my replacement patches needed to include areas around the edges that attach to the bottoms of the longs or under the rear firewall. If not, then the welding could be done from inside the car. If they do, then you will need to get the car up high enough to work from underneath, or best, get it on a rotisserie so you can turn it on its side. At that point, I think it would be easier to install an RD floor. Here's a great video installing one to give you an idea of what is involved. Notice that you still end up with two butt weld seams.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kMOMNhxg-A



I've found pin hole damage around the points that the attach to the longitudinals and the central tunnel making me think combined with the level of rust in the drivers pan my best bet is upper and lower replacement. My hope is to buy space on a lift for a couple afternoons. The difficulty in all of this is timing. I'd have to cut the old pans out, prep the seam area as much as I can, then place the pans and at least secure them initially in place.

Now here's where the problems start; first off, I think the lift I'd be using would rely on wheels being present (jackstands at the worst of it?) so a typical ramp styled lift, can the pan be anchored from below still or are we talking 'basically impossible'?

Second, the reinforcement in the upper frame shown on the video, how is that attached? Essentially I need to remove the old pans, make certain I've added that temporary reinforcement, and make it so the welder comes in, does the job, then gets to leave. I can't weld, but I'm excited to learn about all the other bits involved.

Why not just add pieces? Well, again, the level of damage to the driver's side, would adding half a pan impair structural integrity at all? I watched that video originally to get a feel for installation, while I don't think I can do a rotisserie, I'm trying to work out how to do it without one. Maybe I'm just desperate to not have to do this again? :-) I'm learning about all of this, much to learn still! :-D
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davebrossi
post Sep 23 2018, 06:32 PM
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Update update update half update? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

Using my power of electricity and an orbital sander I was able to grind the large majority of the remaining tar from the driver's side floor pan. I'll let the eye(s) of Sauron do the talking here;

Attached Image

And the illuminated image for reference;

Attached Image

As Vonnegut would say, so it goes....
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burton73
post Sep 24 2018, 02:52 PM
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Dave,

Take your time with this. It takes a lot of time to drill out all the welds that hold a new pan in. You cannot be rushed on doing it or all kinds of problems can happen. The welding needs to be slow as well so things do not warp.

There are a number of ways to do this but you do need to do it slow. Very slow. My younger self would not have taken this job as a weekend job. Anything can screw up and if you are at a friend’s lift they may need you off. I think one weekend to drill all those wells out and then all the clean-up and prep. I had the body shop next door do my pan and do not remember just how much it cost in hours.

Do you have a daily driver? I remember when my daily driver was my 914 2.0 back in 79 when I was in my 20s. It made me sick worrying if my car would be running or not. I am saying really sick.

Pictures of my new pan getting welded in. The picture of old pan when I bought my car. Picture of pan after we cleaned all the tar out and I went to town with a screwdriver showing me just what was not solid.

In picture of old pan look carefully in the center section where more PO used a u clamp to hold down the clutch tube. There was a U Clamp on the side of the center channel also holding in the tube up front next to the driver’s seat.

I hope this helps you and does not send you down a very dark path of getting in too deep on your car without help.

Bob B
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davebrossi
post Sep 24 2018, 05:57 PM
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QUOTE(burton73 @ Sep 24 2018, 02:52 PM) *

Dave,

Take your time with this. It takes a lot of time to drill out all the welds that hold a new pan in. You cannot be rushed on doing it or all kinds of problems can happen. The welding needs to be slow as well so things do not warp.

There are a number of ways to do this but you do need to do it slow. Very slow. My younger self would not have taken this job as a weekend job. Anything can screw up and if you are at a friend’s lift they may need you off. I think one weekend to drill all those wells out and then all the clean-up and prep. I had the body shop next door do my pan and do not remember just how much it cost in hours.

Do you have a daily driver? I remember when my daily driver was my 914 2.0 back in 79 when I was in my 20s. It made me sick worrying if my car would be running or not. I am saying really sick.

Pictures of my new pan getting welded in. The picture of old pan when I bought my car. Picture of pan after we cleaned all the tar out and I went to town with a screwdriver showing me just what was not solid.

In picture of old pan look carefully in the center section where more PO used a u clamp to hold down the clutch tube. There was a U Clamp on the side of the center channel also holding in the tube up front next to the driver’s seat.

I hope this helps you and does not send you down a very dark path of getting in too deep on your car without help.

Bob B
Attached Image Attached ImageAttached Image


Hi Again Bob!

Honestly nothing will happen fast as much as I want it to. I'm not even going to contact the welder until I'm comfortable I've done what I consider appropriate prep. This includes checking the longitudinals (haven't yet) and whatever else anyone chimes in to inspect. I am learning, but one thing I am always in need of being reminded to, is slow it down a notch (That's how I got to do the IMS Bearing replacement not once but twice on my 986, huzzah!)

Having seen the Restoration Design prep videos, things like seat hinges, the jack points, and other panels associated will likely be replaced if I can swing it as I'd like this to be the only time I mess with the floor pans for as long as possible, and I have seen how involved that is. Having zero welding ability makes it impossible for me alone, but in steps, hopefully I can work towards getting there.

I have a heated garage, I've got what I think will be the right tools to work through prep, and as long as wiser minds continue to remind me, I am not rushing into anything.

Not that I want to, but to confirm my initial assumption, for the sake of the welder's safety this car really does need to be on a lift, yes? Local body shops wont touch the car, but going on my own, whatever 'solution' I work out safety's number one here, proper prep second.

My daily driver's a 2014 Mazda CX5. It's boring, but one thing it is also is reliable.
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davebrossi
post Sep 30 2018, 01:56 PM
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Back again with a 'mini' update since there's nothing that's really 'changed' save my own level of paranoia (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I've inspected the two Suspension consoles in the back, the passenger's side looks OK, but I spotted this on the driver's side which may or may not be a cause for concern (yes, at this point I'm in full OCD mode, clinically diagnosed, should not at this point come as any surprise to anyone else based on previous entries of this ongoing saga)

Attached Image
I mean the wrong color of suspension console, but not quite the "bwahahah, I am here to make you cry!" color

I'm not at the 'attack warning red duck and cover!' phase here, but I do think I need to find a way to wire brush the hell out of and Por-15 the area.

As I've started stripping undercoating off the area directly around the upper and lower pans in prep for drilling out the spot welds, on the passenger's side I've noticed the following oxidation that appears to be on the outer longitudinals between the floor pans and the reinforcement panels welded in by 914 Ltd (I'll be calling Brad to confirm the panels as best I can so I can tell what is a strengthening panel welded in because of the increased HP/Torque in the 3.2 motor and what is original longitudinal material)

Attached Image
Near the back of the passenger's upper floor pan just past the pan material

Attached Image
Near the lower floor pan, passenger's side

I'm a bit more concerned about these than I am the suspension console, wondering if I need to order outer rockers. I've not gotten to the driver's side yet because like an idiot, I wasted most of the marine battery power on the tar removal, and used the majority of the battery/cordless drill juice prepping the passenger's side. hence mini update status (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

As to interior 'tar' removal, if you have power in your garage, the heat gun is the way to go! In my case the 5000 watt A/C Inverter and battery combo meant I could once and for all remove the urethane coating from the lower floor pans area with ease. If you do not have the magic juice, dry ice works I suppose.
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davebrossi
post Oct 6 2018, 07:05 PM
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Back again with brief update as I slog along to what will be the next 'cool' bit (which is going to be when I'm at the point that the car is on its side safely and all the nasty rust is being removed/thunderbolts and lightning, very, very, frightening, etc) today however is where I show off that I have limited space in addition to no reliable power, and have also begun the disassembly.

I'll be dropping the motor/transaxle next, then removing the stupidly full fuel tank (I expect some may leak (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) ) and the first of several miracles will have to happen at some point here in the next few weeks (the conjuring of a rotisserie.) I have a ventless heating system, so there will be no stopping for the winter.

yes I know about now the 'git gud n00b!' refrain of 'learn to weld!' is on reader's lips, I'd like to, but given I sell the gold standard in course materials for it and have a bird's eye view of the curriculum towards professional welderdom, I won't get there in a weekend, weak sauce, I know..So it's back to what I -can- do which is dismantle things, I'm plenty good at that!

Attached Image

So in pulling the retrofitted pre-74 bumpers, I noticed surface rust both in the bolt channels and minor surface oxidation in the rear trunk pan. I'm not seeing 'paying owner of Restoration Design's child's university tuition' money tied up there yet, I think a nice wire brush and rust etching primer with paint cleanup should suffice.

Attached Image

Yes, I did finally pull the tires, top gear top tip is, of course, to do so when they're still on the ground, but who ever said I went about things the easy way? One can also see there's a great deal of space now taken up by the doors...good god they are not light! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

Attached Image

Why, yes, that is a canister of kroil. And no, the fiberglass side skirting there isn't being held on at this point by one stubborn screw at all, nope, not at all.

Attached Image

Nothing to see here, just half the car as gently placed down as I can manage it. I give myself half a day before I scratch the ever loving crap out of any of the painted surfaces.

Attached Image

I did locate some surface oxidation in the front trunk as well. Again, no need to cut and conjure new metal into place, but this is a case where I'll use the phrase 'it's a good thing you brought her in when you did, otherwise'... in a non-ironic sort of 'here's where your wallet bleeds at the mechanic' moment. The full fuel tank however, that will be....'fun'.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

Attached Image

I haven't decided how I'm going to get the foam upper inner firewall cover out yet, but it's about the only semblance of interior left short of the dash and all its glory. I'll also need to pull the ECU and relays associated meaning at last I have to break out the ziplock bags and sharpie so I can pretend to appear competent in labeling everything carefully for when I get the car put back together which of course is going to happen.

As an aside, Dad's 3rd 911, a 73 Targa in Lapis blue apparently lived mostly in coffee cans for at least a year. He used to regale me with how he carried the engine block down to the basement on his back. I'm not saying he didn't do it as I can lift a VW type 4 long block no problem, but I was really hoping to avoid the whole coffee can thing. lets just hope the car's the only thing in my life oxidizing away. Smiles! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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davebrossi
post Oct 6 2018, 07:08 PM
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I should also add I was rather annoyed to discover the original specialist who backdated the bumpers seems to have forgotten to install one of those very necessary carriage bolts on the passenger's side. I guess the thought was 3 out of 4, who was ever going to notice?
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KELTY360
post Oct 6 2018, 09:02 PM
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You're a brave man attacking this job in that space. My only advice would be...spend a little time putting up some shelves! No way can you store all that stuff on the ground. The only way to add square footage is to go up.

Good luck.
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davebrossi
post Oct 7 2018, 11:42 AM
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QUOTE(KELTY360 @ Oct 6 2018, 09:02 PM) *

You're a brave man attacking this job in that space. My only advice would be...spend a little time putting up some shelves! No way can you store all that stuff on the ground. The only way to add square footage is to go up.

Good luck.


Hi Mark!

I'd love to have shelving and lighting hung from the ceiling, but I suffer from 'Millenialitis' which means I spend too much on Starbucks and therefore rent my apartment/garage (joke on the Starbucks, not on the rental part.) Life would be a lot easier if I could install an exhaust system for something like a small Honda whisper quiet gas generator, but we work with what we have.

...On the plus side I may decide at some point just to store a lot of the heavier stuff in my apartment. My neighbors are no stranger to me carrying full interior sets up three flights of stairs and working on them in my common room area. Nothing quite like posting hot pics of refinishing the driver's seat out of an Alfa Romeo 164 to make friends think you've lost it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

What's really going to be fun is when I have to position the rotisserie which is likely to involve backing the frame and rotisserie out into busy complex traffic. 'oh no, just a hobby, go back to your collecting a scary number of fire arms Mr. Neighbor!'
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bbrock
post Oct 7 2018, 12:23 PM
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QUOTE(KELTY360 @ Oct 6 2018, 09:02 PM) *

You're a brave man attacking this job in that space. My only advice would be...spend a little time putting up some shelves! No way can you store all that stuff on the ground. The only way to add square footage is to go up.

Good luck.


Okay, I'm going to stop whining about my cramped shop space. You win! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/new_shocked.gif)

Shelves don't have to be permanent. For a couple hundred bucks, you could pick up a lot of heavy duty shelves at the HD that screw into the studs and easily removed when your project is done. You could sell them on Craigslist and recoup some coffee money (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Also, I don't think we know if you need any longitudinal repairs, but keep in mind that's better done with the car level and supported by the suspension mount points BEFORE it goes on the rotisserie. For mine, I built a simple square tube roller frame that bolted to the suspension points and then when I was finished with the long repairs, cut it up and repurposed the metal for the rotisserie.

Now for the welding. Actually, I think you CAN learn the skills you need in a weekend. Will you be a great welder after a weekend? Of course not. But all you need to master are plug welds and butt welds. Plenty of Youtube videos, build threads here on the World, and experience from the brain trust to guide you along. If I could do it, you can too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Not sure how you will pull this off without electricity. Good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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davebrossi
post Oct 7 2018, 06:16 PM
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QUOTE(bbrock @ Oct 7 2018, 12:23 PM) *

QUOTE(KELTY360 @ Oct 6 2018, 09:02 PM) *

You're a brave man attacking this job in that space. My only advice would be...spend a little time putting up some shelves! No way can you store all that stuff on the ground. The only way to add square footage is to go up.

Good luck.


Okay, I'm going to stop whining about my cramped shop space. You win! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/new_shocked.gif)

Shelves don't have to be permanent. For a couple hundred bucks, you could pick up a lot of heavy duty shelves at the HD that screw into the studs and easily removed when your project is done. You could sell them on Craigslist and recoup some coffee money (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Also, I don't think we know if you need any longitudinal repairs, but keep in mind that's better done with the car level and supported by the suspension mount points BEFORE it goes on the rotisserie. For mine, I built a simple square tube roller frame that bolted to the suspension points and then when I was finished with the long repairs, cut it up and repurposed the metal for the rotisserie.

Now for the welding. Actually, I think you CAN learn the skills you need in a weekend. Will you be a great welder after a weekend? Of course not. But all you need to master are plug welds and butt welds. Plenty of Youtube videos, build threads here on the World, and experience from the brain trust to guide you along. If I could do it, you can too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Not sure how you will pull this off without electricity. Good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)


So far it only looks like the inner rockers are rotting as the metal surrounding the pans is oxidized in some locations. It Given all the metal on the inner rocker areas visible inside the cabin appear perfect I'm guessing this is the kind of area where one can 'clean things up' a little? Otherwise I guess I'll be drilling out the pans sooner than I anticipated? Again, nothing tonight, there's plenty of time for me.

As for electricity, it may end up being the relay race with my 5000 watt A/C inverter and marine battery setup that I bought them to avoid with my compressor?
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davebrossi
post Feb 4 2019, 10:00 AM
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Update from beyond the snowwwwww. Money does tend to slow down projects despite the best intentions, but so, too, does a basic lack of skill sets, in this case, welding. Here's where the project stands;

-Sheet metal is in storage having been obtained from Restoration Design. Upper and lower floor pans, new jack points, rear trunk, the extra gubbins required on the interior (seat mounts) and both sides of the inner firewall. This last was a case of 'if I ever have to explain the repairs, people are likely to be happier that I didn't just stitch anything.) I also ordered the sails since the base of both have spots bubbling up.
-I still don't have a rotisserie though if anyone cached the roadglue build, I'd be externally grateful as I'd like to go that route for the sake of cost.
-I've been taking night classes in MIG welding. calling it a 'Class' really is a stretch as it's three hours a night of zero instruction and zero oversight, but I know how to not blow myself up, and have learned to work well with thin carbon steel on upwards. From lap welds to plug welds, I do use as much of the time as I can.

Technical hurdles I still have to get over before I'm 'ready.'
1.) Build rotisserie, then more worryingly, get car to height where I can mount it to said unit. I have a small garage, there will be re-arranging, but harbor freight engine stands and stock steel is my 'scheme' for awesome.
2.) Obtain MIG welding unit I can power off my inverter. I know there are specialized off road kits that run directly off a battery, but also small hobbyist units that run off 110 volts. I'll be pursuing the latter as a cost savings measure.

I'm not giving up, and I'm not leaving the car in pieces. I still have to drop the motor and gas tank, too, but that's mechanical work, something I'm not afraid/inexperienced in. As the first anniversary of my father's passing comes up, I'm reminded why I got into this mess in the first place, and I'm looking forward to when the two major hurdles are crossed and I'm staring at a prepped surface. Who knows, I may even lay a bead in the shape of a smiley face (I can do this!)
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GeorgeRud
post Feb 5 2019, 04:48 PM
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Hang in there and take your time to do it right. I’m sure a lot of folks will be willing to help give advice.
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bbrock
post Feb 5 2019, 05:13 PM
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Thanks for the update. I was just wondering about your progress today. Probably a good call on buying the sail panels. If they are bubbling at the base, there's a good chance they are much worse on the inside.

I'm no pro with welding, but I think a 110 volt welding unit is a great way to go. That's what I have and it is just the ticket for this sort of welding.

To raise my car up to the rotisserie, I bought a bunch of cinder blocks to make platforms to raise jack stands as I went while clenching my butt real tight. I can't say that I recommend it, but it worked and was cheap.

Glad to hear you are still on course. I look forward to the progress reports. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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