Clean slate...now what? |
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Clean slate...now what? |
John90290 |
Sep 13 2018, 06:14 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 93 Joined: 4-March 18 From: Ventura, CA Member No.: 21,937 Region Association: None |
Removed the rust acid washed and use the POR15 on the floor pan. Cut out patched welded and use the POR15 in the hell hole. Figuring out what to do next? Do I put the old heat/sound insulation stuff back on and put contact cement on my beautiful paint job in the engine bay and back of seat? I have the old ones I pulled off. Using the 1975 technology for sound and hear versus new self stick items that Protect against both as well. New stuf Has to be better or at least the same? Also how bout I leave the engine insulation out all together and just use thick stuff behind seat. The old stuff , behind seat and engine bay my gether must weigh 60 pounds. Don’t really want to put the tar stuff back on the floor pan either as it took me a week to remove and seemed to trap water underneath.
I want this car to look and stay as oem as possible but it’s not going to Amelia island or pebble beach. Thanks for all the input! John |
bbrock |
Sep 14 2018, 08:09 AM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I need to make the same decision on my bare metal resto. I'm going to put either Noico or B-Quiet brand foil-faced butyl on the floor. My only beef is that I hate the look of all that foil even though it will be covered with carpet. I have samples of B-Quiet that I'm going to experiment with painting to match the original factory look. An alternative would be Evercoat's sound deadener which pretty much replicates the factory stuff only butyl, but not quite as effective as sound deadener.
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