WHITE EXHAUST............., After warming for 60+ seconds, starts to run very rich, exhaust turns white Options

[ctc911ctc]

It was in the 60's when I took the vid, the car has not been on the road since 1988, calipers are in Idaho being rebuilt - cannot drive it until I get them back....grin. pretty certain it is NOT condensation nor oil/gas/lubricant that had collected in the exhaust system. First time I started the car all of that (including mice nest material) blew out of the 4 pipes.

Thank you NDITIZ,

CTC

How cool is it where you are?

Does it smoke after driving it down the road for 10 mins?

Depending on the temp outside mine would smoke a little and I believe a minute or so after starting due to the condensation that would collect inside exhaust.

If it was a real hot day I wouldn't see any. If I drove around for a few minutes it would be gone as it had cleared it all out.

[ctc911ctc]

Tangerine Chris,
Great to hear from you in this thread!

Yes, a few seconds from the smoke starting there is a drop in RPM.
Cannot drive the car until I get the calipers back ( and weld some panels into the floor so I can re-install the seats...grin)

Good tip as to the idle fine tune knob on the ECU - will try that today,

Thank you, Chris,

CTC

Does the idle change when it starts smoking? The idle should drop and get rough if it's going that rich.
Have you driven the car?
If it was too rich, enough to cause smoke, the engine would run poorly and have low power.
Have you tried adjusting the idle mixture knob on the ecu? If it has a noticeable effect, the mixture is fine.

Sometimes oil collects in the exhaust pipes or muffler and when they start to heat up after a minute or two, the oil starts smoking. The way to eliminate the smoke is run the engine long enough to burn it all off. It may take 5 or more minutes of driving to completely eliminate the accumulated oil.

[ChrisFoley]

First time I started the car all of that (including mice nest material) blew out of the 4 pipes.

The exhaust needs to be up to full operating temp before all accumulated oil inside burns off.

[ChrisFoley]

Yes, a few seconds from the smoke starting there is a drop in RPM.

If the AAR is working, there will be a drop in rpm when it closes.

[Jonathan Livesay]

Simple test for auxiliary air valve, pull the hose from intake box to aux air valve off at the intake and put your thumb over the end of it. When the engine is cold doing this will drop the idle, if the valve is working correctly when the engine warms up there will be no more suction on the hose and blocking it will cause no drop in idle.

[ctc911ctc]

UPDATE

Today I changed the plugs with new ones. Here is what happened. The car started and ran clear and crips for about 10 minutes. THough, while it ran it smelled very rich.

About at 10 min the car started to miss a bit and then started to smoke. I looked at the old plugs and now I have a hypothesis.

My guess is that all of the cylinders are running rich but one is running extra rich or the injector is being held open. THis is flooding the cylinder and then the smoke is the un burnt fuel going out of the pipes.

Here are the plugs I pulled out, all of them are rich, one was wet and very rich...None had any oil.

Will update again tomorrow.

CTC

To all ECU/MPS/TS2 people!

I have a '74 2.0L that I am resurrecting to be original equipment with the exception of all of the Hell-Hole parts which are Rest-Design or other vendors.  The problem that I have been admiring for 2-3 weeks is one of White Smoke, or richness that begins after the engine has been running for 1-2 minutes.

Background: ’74 2.0 barn find, 20K miles all indications are this is accurate (brake pedal wear, rotor wear, seat wear, all other used car tricks, etc….)
Replaced fuel system tank to injectors
Replaced all vacuum hoses
Replaced all other fluids
Replaced Hell hole, longitudinal, floor pans.
Body – perfect, really, really good.
Engine started, sounds like a swiss watch – no mechanically ‘noise’ just mechanical music….
A little rough, however – too much engine motion in the bay

As the engine warms, the injectors are told to put way too much fuel into the system, white smoke and rich exhaust smell start after 40-60 seconds of operation.

Here is what else I did so as to learn as much as possible about the process. I bought a second MPS from a 911World - great guy, very engaged and supportive (THANKS!). I also bought an ECU from him. When I received them, both checked out as ’74 2.0 numbers. Great, though the new MPS is a bit leaky, it compares to the numbers of the one I had which I replaced the diaphragm

I put the two MPS units (the one I  got with the car and the one I bought) on the bench and here are the numbers - very similar - My H meter is not calibrated so I believe since the two are VERY similar that I have a calibration problem…

 Setting____Reference__New Diaphragm___Purchased though leaky
0 inHg._____1.45_______1.06______________1.15  
4 inHg--------1.24_______ .94_______________ .96  
15 inHg______.75_______.66_______________ .66  
 
1. I have tried both MPS units – operates the same, white smoke starts after a minute or two.
2. I Swapped the ECU units – operates the same, white smoke starts after a minute or two.
3. Replace the TS2 with a rheostat (variable resistor) tried it at 1K/500/300 - I believe it changed the time before the white smoke….takes a bit longer, have not timed this effect yet.

I have not done anything with TS1 (Air temp sensor) since it has a marginal effect on mixture (see https://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/ecu.htm Common Questions)

Talked to the guy who rebuilt the injectors and he has never seen a stuck injector which would stop being stuck when the car is off. (The fuel rail holds 30lbs for hours so injectors close when off).

I am centering the MPS/ECU/TS2 part of this equation.

Will keep digging, ANY advice would be very welcome!