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> 901 transmission main seal and rear main seal
John90290
post Oct 17 2018, 08:31 AM
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I pulled the engine to complete the hell hole repair so figured I'd put in a new clutch. Glad I did, clutch disc soaked in oil or transmission fluid, take your pick. Also found the exhaust manifolds nuts hand tight on a couple of the studs and the thermostat cable off of the roller so that basically did not work.

Anyway.... I purchased the new seals - rear main and transmission shaft output but can't find any images or instructions on how to replace them? Usually this is straight forward but there seams to be some sort of recess in the RMS of the engine? Any diagrams or instructions would be appreciated.

Also, the clutch had a lot of material left on it, almost as thick as the replacement disc so I think the clutch was recent but they never bothered to replace seals so it's shot. The flywheel looks smooth and unmarred. Do I still need to resurface?

Thanks!

-John
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Dr Evil
post Oct 17 2018, 02:10 PM
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If flywheel is smooth, you are good. Did you get new bolts, pilot bearing, felt, flat plate and bolts for the flywheel re mount?

Seal should just pull out like usual rear mains. Trans seal needs removal of the guided tube and TOB parts, then be careful not to gouge the bore (very common) as this can lead to a leak. While your in there, make sure you have the plastic spacers that go between the TOB and the fork arms, and replaced the bushing in the fork.
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76-914
post Oct 17 2018, 03:43 PM
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Don't hammer in the new rear main. You can damage one that way. There is an install tool for it but short of that you could use a flat piece of wood or metal against it. That being said there was some bit of discussion here re: which brand to buy. Evidently some were not sealing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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TheCabinetmaker
post Oct 17 2018, 06:29 PM
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Sabo black rms. Anything else will leak
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914Sixer
post Oct 17 2018, 08:10 PM
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I thought it would be a good time to show what the factory transmission front seal looked like. As you can see it is NOTHING like the replacement seal that is being sold. VW part 113.311.113B

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John90290
post Oct 18 2018, 09:31 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Oct 17 2018, 01:10 PM) *

If flywheel is smooth, you are good. Did you get new bolts, pilot bearing, felt, flat plate and bolts for the flywheel re mount?

Seal should just pull out like usual rear mains. Trans seal needs removal of the guided tube and TOB parts, then be careful not to gouge the bore (very common) as this can lead to a leak. While your in there, make sure you have the plastic spacers that go between the TOB and the fork arms, and replaced the bushing in the fork.


Thanks for all the input. I got all the parts you mentioned above and am ready to go. Do you think I will need a pilot bearing puller or could I fashion something from the assorted pullers in my collection? Also found this diagram about the trans. Let me know if this sort of looks correct.

Also, I got the rms from pelican parts but don’t think it’s the sabo? Should I buy a sabo or is the pelican parts rms good?

Thanks.
John


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BeatNavy
post Oct 18 2018, 09:50 AM
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The RMS you want (Sabo) is available from GoWesty: http://www.gowesty.com/product/mechanical/...l-rear-main-?v=

I think you should be able to remove the old pilot bearing with a press or with a hammer and a suitable drift. Or a puller. I think there are several ways you could skin that cat.

Edit: may also want to ask Mark (914Sixer) where to find that input shaft seal. I bought the OEM from him. I think he has a source in Germany or something.
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John90290
post Oct 18 2018, 10:23 AM
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QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Oct 18 2018, 08:50 AM) *

The RMS you want (Sabo) is available from GoWesty: http://www.gowesty.com/product/mechanical/...l-rear-main-?v=

I think you should be able to remove the old pilot bearing with a press or with a hammer and a suitable drift. Or a puller. I think there are several ways you could skin that cat.

Edit: may also want to ask Mark (914Sixer) where to find that input shaft seal. I bought the OEM from him. I think he has a source in Germany or something.



done and done. Thanks again. Saved me some headaches down the road. The "you might as well" and "while the engine is out you should..." is painful in the short term but I know it will pay off in some good, problem free years,...I hope.

-John
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