Suspension paint Options

[bbrock]

I've read other threads on this but they mainly discuss color and paint vs. powder coating. I'm going to spray semigloss black to match the OEM finish. Anyone have a preferred brand or type? Seems like epoxy primer top coated with 2K paint would be a good idea, but will this build too thick of a coat? Looks like factory just sprayed enamel direct to metal.

[Tom_T]

I've read other threads on this but they mainly discuss color and paint vs. powder coating. I'm going to spray semigloss black to match the OEM finish. Anyone have a preferred brand or type? Seems like epoxy primer top coated with 2K paint would be a good idea, but will this build too thick of a coat? Looks like factory just sprayed enamel direct to metal.

Brent -

The factory didn't really have 2-part epoxy paints readily available to them back then for that application, nor did their OEM suppliers for the various parts & sub-assemblies. So it would've been either an enamel or polyurethane paint back then (polyurethane varnishes & paints were patented in the early 1960s - my Dad had the patent[s] with Koppers).

The epoxy primer will probably be the better protective/sealing under coating, but may give too much build-up if not sprayed carefully.

I'd tend to say go with a polyurethane enamel top coat in the satin-black or epoxy - for durability, but can't say which brand will be better - but I'd look at auto paints expressly made for auto restos. Usually PPG & Dupont make the best/better automotive paints in general - especially for topside applications.

Being "the king of runs" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon22_2.gif) - I'd never attempt it myself, especially with all of the rounded parts & complex surfaces on the suspension bits! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Good Luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Tom
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[rhodyguy]

Zero Rust in black.

[bbrock]

Thanks guys. What is the gloss level of the black Zero Rust? Looking to match the semi-gloss of the factory finish, but this looks like a possibility.

Tom, I have the same question about final film thickness that you have. I've read that powder coat is thick enough to interfere with parts fitment but don't know how that would compare with a coat of epoxy primer followed by topcoat. I'm looking to provide the best long long term protection and durable coating I can while maintaining the factory look. Let's face it, the factory was more interested in pinching pennies than providing a lasting finish for these parts. Hoping to improve on that a bit.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Amphicar770]

I like Eastwood chassis black. If using 2k paint, wear a full face, fresh air respirator. Nasty stuff.

[914forme]

Order in my book for durability
E-coat
plating
Powder coat
zinc-coat
2K paints
Single stage enamels

Easy of application
Paint out of a can - runs require sanding if you want it to look perfect. Factory had runs at time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
2K paint, need respirator, cleanup a bit worse, or you toss the gun making it easier. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
zinc-coating via paint
Powder-coating
plating or e-coat

Issues in order of east to hardest
Paint out of a can
Paint out of a gun
Powder coating - issues are thickness in screw holes, and machined match surfaces. Good masking solves that. Or running a tap back through it to clean offending threaded areas. I do that anyway.
E-coating, can be painted over
Plating or Zinc brushed on stuff. Hard to keep paint stuck on, unless allied correctly and prepped correctly.

Real question is what is the goal, Restoration or history correct or the best longest lasting finish.

If your wanting the sub metal to last for every, you need to coat both sides. Zinc will make the longest lasting coating for protection. As the zinc becomes the sacrificial metal to keep the nasties that make Iron transition to oxide happen.

Oh we left out fabrication of new parts using metals or other products that do not have oxidation issues as extreme as steel. So you could start making suspension bits out of SS, or Carbon, Kevlar, or combinations and mixed metal substrates using fusion welding techniques (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[IronHillRestorations]

For my current project I'm using VHT satin epoxy. The metal will be media blasted, acid etched, and the epoxy requires no primer. I will also use Eastwood's internal frame spray paint wherever I can or need to get it inside, like trailing arms and front A arms

[914forme]

Perry,

Are you mixing the epoxy per application or is this the spray can epoxy? I have heard mixed reviews on the spray can stuff. The biggest complaint I hear is it sets up in the can before you get to finish your work.

And that would make perfect sense as it is an epoxy, and you should not dilly dally around as the reaction process gives you a pot life, just like mixing part A and part B on the bench and not expecting a gallon of the stuff tomato cottage cheese while your sprayed maybe a pint.

I am guessing that most people think it is a spray can, so it is just like the Krylon I get a the store, it works for ever. Shake and spray.

[Mark Henry]

Black Dupont Nason catalyst urethane, a bit thin because meant to be sprayed, but I just paint a couple coats on with a brush. Flows fairly good, at least good enough for the greasy side. Way better than rattle can. I just use cheap universal catalyst with the Nason.
Gloss black, who cares, after a couple drives it looks like flat black. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I can see being totally correct for a concours weenie, trailered, garage queen, but I build my cars to drive and enjoy.

Powder coating is great, but make sure not to get the PC where you don't want it.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-26-1423965925.jpg)

[bbrock]

For my current project I'm using VHT satin epoxy. The metal will be media blasted, acid etched, and the epoxy requires no primer. I will also use Eastwood's internal frame spray paint wherever I can or need to get it inside, like trailing arms and front A arms

This looks interesting. Have you used it before? If so, how well did the satin match the original finish? I know there was a big debate on satin vs. semi gloss on an older thread, but what I'm finding under the old undercoat is most definitely semi gloss - a little more gloss than satin.

I'll also be applying Eastwood internal frame coating inside the A-arms and trailing arms. Looks like Eastwood also has a 2K rattle can product but also only available in gloss or satin.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/cdn.eastwood.com-20845-1541262939.1.jpg)

Stephen asked about the goal. My goal is to decorate the belly of my freshly Raptor-coated chassis with parts that look factory fresh but with a finish a bit more durable. I'm already spraying plenty of 2K so I don't care much about whether the paint comes out of a rattle can or gun and has nasty catalysts.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20845-1540172585_thumb.jpg)

[mepstein]

The cans are an convenient but expensive way to paint.

[bbrock]

The cans are an convenient but expensive way to paint.

I'll add that I tried their rattle can epoxy primer and was not overly impressed. The 2K in a can system worked well though. The paint just didn't stack up against PPG. Not surprising, but like you said, on a per ounce basis, the rattle can Eastwood was more expensive.

I might go the Nason route just because I can get the gloss that I want. I have a sickness, I think. I plan to drive this car a lot and don't think I could find a Concours event within 600 miles even if I were interested in such a thing. But I get a perverse kick out of diving into the minutia of replicating the factory look. I don't know why. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)