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> Cylinder Head Bolt Pattern, Dimensional Drawing
Mblizzard
post Nov 12 2018, 11:23 AM
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Anyone have an existing dimensional drawing for the 2.0 cylinder head bolt pattern?

Just trying to not reinvent the wheel if someone has it handy.
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Chi-town
post Nov 12 2018, 01:37 PM
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Call ARP, if it's just the stock bolt dimensions you're after they probably have it.
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Mark Henry
post Nov 12 2018, 01:41 PM
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Why (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

You could take a head and with the right size punch make a transfer.
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Mblizzard
post Nov 12 2018, 01:48 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Nov 12 2018, 11:41 AM) *

Why (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

You could take a head and with the right size punch make a transfer.


Yes but I am going to send out to someone to make me some plates for holding the cylinders while checking deck height. Was just the easiest way to gather the info.
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rhodyguy
post Nov 12 2018, 02:31 PM
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Mike, did you go with Nickies? If so be careful with the torque down plates. Don't rest the plates on the fins. I watched a member collapse the top fins on 2 cylinders. An expensive error.
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Mark Henry
post Nov 12 2018, 03:27 PM
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You don't have to torque the up, I never have in close to 30 years building engines.
I use sized plastic tubes and just put the nuts on light finger tight.
Really the surfaces should be flat and it should sit square without torque. If it doesn't sit square something's wrong.

Big bore nickies the casework the cylinders should be a slip fit, the bores should be .005-.010" OS. You may need to clean up the case bore/cylinder OD with a scotchbrite pad. Decking the bore mating surfaces should also be done.
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Mblizzard
post Nov 13 2018, 10:27 AM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Nov 12 2018, 01:27 PM) *

You don't have to torque the up, I never have in close to 30 years building engines.
I use sized plastic tubes and just put the nuts on light finger tight.
Really the surfaces should be flat and it should sit square without torque. If it doesn't sit square something's wrong.

Big bore nickies the casework the cylinders should be a slip fit, the bores should be .005-.010" OS. You may need to clean up the case bore/cylinder OD with a scotchbrite pad. Decking the bore mating surfaces should also be done.


Was just using the steel plate to have a magnetic surface to mount the dial indicator on.

Will be using the Nickies. Going to the shop next week for opening the spigots and decking! Will pass along the slip fit information.
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Mark Henry
post Nov 13 2018, 11:03 AM
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QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Nov 13 2018, 11:27 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Nov 12 2018, 01:27 PM) *

You don't have to torque the up, I never have in close to 30 years building engines.
I use sized plastic tubes and just put the nuts on light finger tight.
Really the surfaces should be flat and it should sit square without torque. If it doesn't sit square something's wrong.

Big bore nickies the casework the cylinders should be a slip fit, the bores should be .005-.010" OS. You may need to clean up the case bore/cylinder OD with a scotchbrite pad. Decking the bore mating surfaces should also be done.


Was just using the steel plate to have a magnetic surface to mount the dial indicator on.

Will be using the Nickies. Going to the shop next week for opening the spigots and decking! Will pass along the slip fit information.

I have mitutoyo dial indicators, I still use a straightedge and feeler gauges. Way faster.
I set my 102mm nickies to .040"this way. Same with the flywheel end play, cheap VW tool and feelers.
I find in both instances it's just as accurate and yes I have done it both ways.
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Mblizzard
post Nov 13 2018, 11:42 AM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Nov 13 2018, 09:03 AM) *

QUOTE(Mblizzard @ Nov 13 2018, 11:27 AM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Nov 12 2018, 01:27 PM) *

You don't have to torque the up, I never have in close to 30 years building engines.
I use sized plastic tubes and just put the nuts on light finger tight.
Really the surfaces should be flat and it should sit square without torque. If it doesn't sit square something's wrong.

Big bore nickies the casework the cylinders should be a slip fit, the bores should be .005-.010" OS. You may need to clean up the case bore/cylinder OD with a scotchbrite pad. Decking the bore mating surfaces should also be done.


Was just using the steel plate to have a magnetic surface to mount the dial indicator on.

Will be using the Nickies. Going to the shop next week for opening the spigots and decking! Will pass along the slip fit information.

I have mitutoyo dial indicators, I still use a straightedge and feeler gauges. Way faster.
I set my 102mm nickies to .040"this way. Same with the flywheel end play, cheap VW tool and feelers.
I find in both instances it's just as accurate and yes I have done it both ways.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Because I don't do this very often or have the skills you have honed over the years, I will be checking it using both methods. Kind of the overkill of measure twice.
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