Wont start, struggling Options

[rhodyguy]

Try turning the idle up using ONE idle speed adjusting screw. Just one. Dr side is most convenient. Now you have some weird linkage bind out of the equation and you can get a pretty high idle speed if needed. Did you go with the old carb to intake gaskets? I consider them a one time use item. Go thru the whole carb preinstall setup, Cb manual, air-cooled.net, etc. you'll be time ahead starting from scratch. Show us your linkage. How much does your cross bar shift side to side?

[mobymutt]

Are you sure the firing order is correct? My car initially had plugged up carbs, timing off and not well synced, and the thing still ran (not well, but it ran). Only time I had symptoms like yours was when I switched the plug wires around.

[wndsrfr]

Are you sure the firing order is correct? My car initially had plugged up carbs, timing off and not well synced, and the thing still ran (not well, but it ran). Only time I had symptoms like yours was when I switched the plug wires around.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
However, I have seen a situation where the points rubbing block had worn entirely down due to no lube so the points were not really opening at all...be sure that they are actually breaking contact...check it with a test light, easy to do.

[Rand]

I haven't read the whole thread. But you know the basics. Assuming compression hasn't suddenly changed, how have you test for spark and fuel? If you put a plug on a wire and ground it, does it spark? Ten seconds. Fuel gets a little more timely, but not hard. You have to answer fuel and spark before this continues spiraling. Timing and tuning comes AFTER that.

[Spoke]

In the video, your first key turn resulted in the engine firing up and running strong for a second or 2. I'd guess that the timing is ok and the plugs are correctly routed.

[second wind]

For $50 I would buy a new coil to totally eliminate that possibility....when I finally did my car suddenly started on only three cylinders as I forgot to connect one. Plugs do weird things under compression.....jus' sayin'
gg

[Rand]

Coils have a VERY low failure rate. Test first.

[Tdskip]

In the video, your first key turn resulted in the engine firing up and running strong for a second or 2. I'd guess that the timing is ok and the plugs are correctly routed.

With all of the changes might be a good idea to get a new video of how she sits as of now posted.

[ericoneal]

I got the new starter on today, so at least I am back at square one and she it turning over again. A new video woundnt be worth much as its still doing the same thing.
I set TDC again today with the fan and rotor pointing at plug one. THen got under the car and checked #1 valves. I could move the intake and exhaust rockers slightly and they were gapped perfectly, so that valve is closed(?), indicating true TDC. Also checked a mark I made on the flywheel for valve adjustments and it was there.

I tried a new distributor cap that I had in the basement, and nothing. I triple checked the plugs and even moved them 90 and 180 degrees to test.

So at this point we know:

The carbs are clean and somewhat adjusted
TDC is true and static timing should be on
I'm getting a spark on all four plug wires
Its getting fuel.

Next, I plan to check gap on the points. They were open at TDC, but maybe too much?
Also found a spare coil to try.

I have three more days to get this thing running..

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys, please keep them coming.

[Tdskip]

0.016", same as any other 914 or Type IV motor.

--DD

( via Google and Pelican)

[mobymutt]

Maybe post some pictures of the wires, distributer, etc?

[ericoneal]

Tested the coil and am getting a strong white spark. Point gaps are perfect at 0.016. Starting to suspect the distributor. I found this distributor in some parts that the previous owner gave me, so it should work. (Whatt the big silver thing on the side for?)

So, if I understand correctly how to replace the distributor, I just need to :
1. Put it at TDC
2. loosen the adjustment bolt
3. Rotate it to get to the 13mm removal bolt.
4. REmove.
5. Put in new distributor with rotor in same direction as one that I took out.

Any tricks here. I read something about a spring that could fall down in the engine? Is that on the distributor shaft, or is that below the gear shaft?

Basically, my only hesitation is doing something stupid, unknowingly, and having something fall into the engine.

Thanks

[Spoke]

The item on the side of the distributor is the vacuum advance can. I doubt that the distributor is causing your issue. Going back to your first video, the engine turns over strong then chugs. It revs to about 3k RPM before dying. Nothing in the distributor would cause that except points.

It seems to me that your problem is fuel related. Have you tried starting fluid before starting to see if it revs up?

[ericoneal]

Tried that too. At this point just going through the process of elimination. Fuel pump is shooting gas just fine and carbs are squirting gas on acceleration. Jets have been cleaned.

[iankarr]

I’m thinking fuel as well. Could be that the pump is weak and/or the lines have some restriction somewhere and when the engine wants max juice it can’t keep up. Had the same issue on my mustang which baffled me till I finally replaced the pump.

[cgnj]

Tested the coil and am getting a strong white spark. Point gaps are perfect at 0.016. Starting to suspect the distributor. I found this distributor in some parts that the previous owner gave me, so it should work. (Whatt the big silver thing on the side for?)

So, if I understand correctly how to replace the distributor, I just need to :
1. Put it at TDC
2. loosen the adjustment bolt
3. Rotate it to get to the 13mm removal bolt.
4. REmove.
5. Put in new distributor with rotor in same direction as one that I took out.

Any tricks here. I read something about a spring that could fall down in the engine? Is that on the distributor shaft, or is that below the gear shaft?

Basically, my only hesitation is doing something stupid, unknowingly, and having something fall into the engine.

Thanks

Hi,
1. TDC on #1
2. yes
3. yes
4. rotor is keyed should point to close to index when installed.
5. I'd eyeball the distributor drive gar to confirm it is correctly indexed.
6. That a vacuum advance/retard can. do your carbs, hve ported vacum? it will work withit it hooked up.

Yes I lost the spring on the distributor. I had my son working on my 27- build when he was about 10. He dropped and it fell to the ottom of the case. Disassembled/reassemblemed motor. Have a pick in hand to tr\p the spring if you have to noodle with the gear. It's not likely unless this engine ran a Unilite with vacuum.

You are so close.

[Spoke]

Tried that too.

OK, so you sprayed starting fluid in each carb barrel and started it up. Did it jump to life or just chug like other times?

[ericoneal]

After spraying, it takes a few times, then starts for 1-2 seconds at a high rpm like before, then dies.

[Spoke]

After spraying, it takes a few times, then starts for 1-2 seconds at a high rpm like before, then dies.

So with proper fuel, it revs up? I think you've hit the nail on the head. It appears you have some type of fuel issue.

If you have problems with timing, valves, distributor, points the engine likely wouldn't roar into action even with the starting fluid.

[euro911]

Have you checked the fuel pressure at the carb's fuel inlet(s) ... should be between 3 & 5 psi for carbs.

If it's not, I'd disconnect the hose from the line going to the engine bay and check for pressure right at the pump's output port.

I'd also recommend checking/cleaning or replacing the screen in the supply line at the fuel tank outlet and change any fuel filter(s) in the supply line as needed.

Add fresh fuel and see what happens. If it's still not starting, I'd pull the carb tops off and check float bowl levels - they may be stuck or the inlet check valve(s) may be gummed-up due to sitting and not allowing fuel to fill them. Pull those valves and clean them up as well.