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> Wont start, struggling
injunmort
post Dec 9 2018, 02:54 PM
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you have still not timed it. yes the distributor and engine are at tdc, but you have not rotated the distributor into correct position. at tdc, on #1, the points should just start to open. I do this by a piece of cellophane between the points, rotating the distributor until the cellophane comes out of the points with light pressure. everything can be pointing in the right direction and it is still not statically timed.
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tom.esh
post Dec 9 2018, 03:03 PM
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How old is the gas in the tank? Could it just be bad gas?
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Tdskip
post Dec 11 2018, 08:21 AM
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Bump for an update and any help needed to get you back on the road.
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ericoneal
post Dec 11 2018, 09:35 AM
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I'm starting to think its a fuel pressure issue myself, although it shot gas into bottles when the pump was on, maybe its crapping out after ignition?

As far as timing, we already set TDC and rotated the distributor each way while cranking with no luck.

Anyway, time is now up, and she is off to the clinic:

Attached Image

Will let you guys know what they find.
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Tdskip
post Dec 11 2018, 09:36 AM
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Please do!
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wndsrfr
post Dec 11 2018, 09:51 AM
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I'm betting on the points....
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Jamie
post Dec 11 2018, 10:46 AM
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QUOTE(ericoneal @ Dec 11 2018, 07:35 AM) *

I'm starting to think its a fuel pressure issue myself, although it shot gas into bottles when the pump was on, maybe its crapping out after ignition?

As far as timing, we already set TDC and rotated the distributor each way while cranking with no luck.

Anyway, time is now up, and she is off to the clinic:

Attached Image

Will let you guys know what they find.


What "clinic?" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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ericoneal
post Dec 11 2018, 11:54 AM
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Stuttgart Specialists, here in Louisville.
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Tdskip
post Dec 13 2018, 03:17 PM
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Any news?
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ericoneal
post Dec 17 2018, 09:31 AM
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So as suspected all along, the problem would turn out to be something small and embarrassing:

I left a washer between one of the carbs and the head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) causing a huge vacuum leak. So it fires up and runs great now, the mechanic also sorted out some other issues and dumbassery (not all mine) that he found in the engine bay as well.

But all is not well:

I drove her home Satuday night (20 miles or so) and she dumped two quarts of oil out of the connection between the transmission and engine. So rear main seal? Its bad. Really bad...
I didnt change the seal when I did the clutch because it never leaked and I didnt want to mess with the flywheel and all that could go wrong with getting that back on.
Is it possible for this seal to get damaged when inserting the transmission shaft back on during re-install? How/why did this happen now?
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VaccaRabite
post Dec 17 2018, 09:57 AM
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QUOTE(ericoneal @ Dec 17 2018, 10:31 AM) *

So as suspected all along, the problem would turn out to be something small and embarrassing:

I left a washer between one of the carbs and the head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) causing a huge vacuum leak. So it fires up and runs great now, the mechanic also sorted out some other issues and dumbassery (not all mine) that he found in the engine bay as well.

But all is not well:

I drove her home Satuday night (20 miles or so) and she dumped two quarts of oil out of the connection between the transmission and engine. So rear main seal? Its bad. Really bad...
I didnt change the seal when I did the clutch because it never leaked and I didnt want to mess with the flywheel and all that could go wrong with getting that back on.
Is it possible for this seal to get damaged when inserting the transmission shaft back on during re-install? How/why did this happen now?



Maybe RMS.

Yes its possible to damage it replacing the transmission, but you have to try. Its likely that the seal was just old and tired and it was its time. Pull the transmission out and put a new seal in. Also a good time to check your clutch and flywheel.

BUT!
There are some freeze plugs back there that can come loose too. and when they do they will dump a ton of oil quickly. Many of us pull the freeze plugs out and thread the bungs and put pipe fittings there instead. Either way, you need to pull off the transmission and look and see. If it was a freeze plug you were lucky not to loose the engine.

Zach
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Dec 17 2018, 09:58 AM
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I would say that it blew out a galley plug to spill that much oil


QUOTE(ericoneal @ Dec 17 2018, 08:31 AM) *

So as suspected all along, the problem would turn out to be something small and embarrassing:

I left a washer between one of the carbs and the head. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) causing a huge vacuum leak. So it fires up and runs great now, the mechanic also sorted out some other issues and dumbassery (not all mine) that he found in the engine bay as well.

But all is not well:

I drove her home Satuday night (20 miles or so) and she dumped two quarts of oil out of the connection between the transmission and engine. So rear main seal? Its bad. Really bad...
I didnt change the seal when I did the clutch because it never leaked and I didnt want to mess with the flywheel and all that could go wrong with getting that back on.
Is it possible for this seal to get damaged when inserting the transmission shaft back on during re-install? How/why did this happen now?
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Tdskip
post Dec 17 2018, 10:00 AM
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Glad she is running well, at least that is sort it out.

Thanks for the update
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rhodyguy
post Dec 17 2018, 10:11 AM
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With all the cranking, peddle pushing and fuel squirting, the oil is prob loaded with fuel.
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ericoneal
post Dec 17 2018, 10:15 AM
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I drained the two quarts that were left and put in 3 3/4 quarts new last night. Degreased the engine as best I could so I could fire her up and watch for the leak.

Here is the leak, just after shutting the engine off.

oil leak
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rhodyguy
post Dec 17 2018, 11:14 AM
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You'll know whether it's a galley plug or RMS after the trans is separated from the engine. Prepare yourself for a not so swell bill. Bummer...
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ericoneal
post Dec 30 2018, 07:08 PM
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Checking back in, have a look at this:

Finally got time to get the transmission off and removed the main seal tonight. Definitely seemed to be leaking from there:


Attached Image


Removed the seal and bunch of scrap metel filaments fell out. I was expecting to find some end-play shims in there, is this whats left of those? Shouldnt they be wider (when intact)?


Attached Image

and final shot once everything is removed. Clutch is still clean of oil and flywheel seems fine. Have not found felt washer in there either. I bought everything to do the seal, but I guess I am going to need shims now...

Attached Image


What can you guys make of all this? Thanks for input everyone.
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injunmort
post Dec 30 2018, 07:46 PM
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there are no shims behind the seal. that's whats left of the seal springs. looking at pre seal removal, its pretty obvious where the seal failed. new seal and reassemble. galley plug looks like it has indian head smeared on it and probably not the worst idea.
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wndsrfr
post Dec 30 2018, 08:01 PM
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QUOTE(injunmort @ Dec 30 2018, 05:46 PM) *

there are no shims behind the seal. that's whats left of the seal springs. looking at pre seal removal, its pretty obvious where the seal failed. new seal and reassemble. galley plug looks like it has indian head smeared on it and probably not the worst idea.

IIRC There certainly are supposed to be three shims sandwiched between the flywheel and the end bearing surface....looks to me like the remains of a badly rashed shim there and if that's the bearing surface it's rashed also...
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ericoneal
post Dec 30 2018, 08:12 PM
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It must be shim remains because the seal spring is still inside the seal and is intact. But how can this happen to the shims?
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