Clutch Cable Wisdom Requested, What should the feel feel like? Options

[ctc911ctc]

Hi,

I have the silver bullet ('74 2.0 - garaged since '84, just purchased and refreshed - lots of welding) running and I do not like the clutch feel.

In my past 914s, the clutch feel was a lot of pressure for the first 1/2 of the pedal travel and then the pressure nearly went away once the pedal traveled close to the floor.

This cars clutch is stiff all the way down to the floor, I believe that the top inch or two is just spring tension. I went under the car to tighten the cable and found myself wondering what the forum might say.

Questions:

1. Is there a correct feel, or should all be different?
2. Though the cable looks very good (not frayed, etc) how much can they stretch? Do they stretch?
3. Any other advice on this would be helpful.

Long on knowledge - Short on experience,

CTC911CTC

[76-914]

First, I'd remove the rear access panel on top of the tunnel, then lift and move the bundle of wires directly behind the crossbar which will allow you to see the clutch tube and finally remove the bolts at the base plate of the shifter. Now rotate the base of the shifter 90 degrees. You now can watch the clutch tube at the 3 attach points where they frequently come loose. Depress the clutch pedal several times as you watch the tube. If the tube doesn't move from side to side you're good. Now remove the 2 - 11mm nuts and pull the clutch cable loose from the clutch fork. The clutch pedal should fall to the floorboard pulling the cable with it. Pull and release the cable to see if it drags or binds. If it doesn't it isn't binding. The stiff pedal you describe could be a HD pressure plate but I doubt it. The TO bearing can bind on the pilot shaft but you'd need to drop the tranny to verify. Personally, I'd drive it a bit to see if it got better before I'd drop the tranny. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[ctc911ctc]

Soooo,

The clutch tubes were all attached, the cable was in good shape but the pulley assembly was completed filled with dirt cemented with grease. took off the cable at the clutch arm and the pedal dropped to the floor. Just like you said.......ahhhh

Took off the clutch reverse-er assembly, cleaned, polished and lubed. Reassembled and re-installed. Hooked it up, tightened to the point of tension in the cable. Feels like a new clutch up front and more importantly my muscle memory says: yup, that's it - that is what it should feel like! Shouldn't there be a cover for this assembly?



After the clutch was sorted, I moved on to the shifter which was a bit loose, seems I may need new bushings, Both of these are destroyed, also there are no parts in the shifter cup at the transmission side-shifter.



Interestingly there were no parts in the cover when I removed it.....hhhhmmmm, where did they go????

There is rust on the firewall, though the mount is solid,,,,,,,,where did that bushing go???? No parts or remnants.......hhhmmmmm

First, I'd remove the rear access panel on top of the tunnel, then lift and move the bundle of wires directly behind the crossbar which will allow you to see the clutch tube and finally remove the bolts at the base plate of the shifter. Now rotate the base of the shifter 90 degrees. You now can watch the clutch tube at the 3 attach points where they frequently come loose. Depress the clutch pedal several times as you watch the tube. If the tube doesn't move from side to side you're good. Now remove the 2 - 11mm nuts and pull the clutch cable loose from the clutch fork. The clutch pedal should fall to the floorboard pulling the cable with it. Pull and release the cable to see if it drags or binds. If it doesn't it isn't binding. The stiff pedal you describe could be a HD pressure plate but I doubt it. The TO bearing can bind on the pilot shaft but you'd need to drop the tranny to verify. Personally, I'd drive it a bit to see if it got better before I'd drop the tranny. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[tvdinnerbythepool]

I replaced all bushings for the trans links (early tail shift) with much better results in shifting (still not perfect but never will be, lol!)

I also just rebuilt my pedal cluster with brass bushings and new springs...Holy Cow! What a difference, the clutch feels so much better now. Bruce Stone helped me out with some parts.

Definitely good projects to improve the overall drivability and not too difficult.

Good luck with your projects!

[76-914]

That firewall where the rubber cover came loose looks pretty good considering the age and more especially your location. New bushings at the Ujoint by the firewall, the single one the transmission which you pictured already and new cone screws are the key. Do them all then your off the hook for another 30K miles or so. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Dr Evil]

For your next question on how to adjust shifter after you have changed the bushings and such, there is a link to my method in my 31 pages of notes in my sig (and other stuff). Chris Foley has a method that people like as well, I dont have a link to that.



Consider checking transmission mounts, engine mounts to bar, and the U joint by the fire wall has two bushings. "While your in there....."

[Larmo63]

I always use the Tangerine Racing (also Chris Foley) firewall bushing. In the rear console, I use a bronze bushing (eBay). New cup in rear shift fork too. (readily available/914 Rubber). The blue bushings in the firewall shift linkage coupler are a bit more tricky to deal with, you may need a press to do them right.

Your missing bushing or remnants of it are most likely in the tunnel. You can take the inside cover off between the seats and look in there for it. That area tends to be a bit nasty inside, probably worth taking a look and cleaning as much as possible.