Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> How to Cap the Brakes Lines for Staging, Seems obvious how to, but not to me
Highland
post Dec 4 2018, 05:05 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 8-August 11
From: San Diego, CA
Member No.: 13,418
Region Association: Southern California



So I'm at the stage where I'm going to drop the brakes and suspension to change bearings, bushings, calipers, rotors, pads, shocks, springs, etc. I plan to start with the rear then move to the front.

So the car will probably be off its wheels for some time while I'm trying to figure this all out.

I've emptied the brake reservoir with a turkey baster, but of course there's still fluid in the lines. I'm also thinking it would be easier to bleed the lines if there's fluid in them.

My question is where is the best place to disconnect the brake lines (before or after the flex) and what's the best way to cap it so I don't end up with brake fluid on my paint?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mepstein
post Dec 4 2018, 06:16 PM
Post #2


914-6 GT in waiting
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 11,681
Joined: 19-September 09
From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE
Member No.: 10,825
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



Clamp the flex line closed and remove it at the flex/hard line junction. Put the flex line in a bottle, unclamp and let drain. Replace flex line if you can’t remember the last time it was changed. Flex lines fail when they get old.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
jcd914
post Dec 5 2018, 04:39 PM
Post #3


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,676
Joined: 7-February 08
From: Sacramento, CA
Member No.: 8,684
Region Association: Northern California



I have a mix of plastic threaded plugs and ends of old brake lines that have been cut off and bent over a crimped. Both of these screw into the end of a flex line and seal it.

The plastic plugs came from packaged new brake parts over the years. Master cylinders used to come with plugs threaded into the line fitting to keep them sealed up in transit and storage.

The brake line ends were made up as needed.
I cut an old steel brake line about 1 1/2 inches long and left the flare nut on it.
Then I used vise grips and flatten about 3/4 inch of the tube at the cut end.
Then folded over the flatten tube about half way down the flattened section.
Then on the flat part of a vise (or anvil or other large hard metal), hammered the folded tube to insure it was sealed.

Jim



User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
BillC
post Dec 5 2018, 04:47 PM
Post #4


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 308
Joined: 24-April 15
From: Silver Spring, MD
Member No.: 18,667
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



Unbolt the hard line from the caliper and then put a vacuum cap over the end of the line. Quick, simple, and will keep it from dripping while you work on everything else.

However, Mark's guidance to replace the flex lines if they're old or you can't remember when (if) they were replaced, is very good advice.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mepstein
post Dec 5 2018, 04:58 PM
Post #5


914-6 GT in waiting
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 11,681
Joined: 19-September 09
From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE
Member No.: 10,825
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



QUOTE(BillC @ Dec 5 2018, 05:47 PM) *

Unbolt the hard line from the caliper and then put a vacuum cap over then end of the line. Quick, simple, and will keep it from dripping while you work on everything else.

However, Mark's guidance to replace the flex lines if they're old or you can't remember when (if) they were replaced, is very good advice.


The vacuum cap is new to me, I'll get some. I had to cut open the lines from a couple cars to get the techs at our shop to believe me that they go bad. They looked fine on the outside but were a mess on the inside. They are a bit of a pain to replace on the back but if you are doing everything, now's the time.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
rgalla9146
post Dec 5 2018, 05:51 PM
Post #6


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,332
Joined: 23-November 05
From: Paramus NJ
Member No.: 5,176




A simple way to stop leakage when doing open brake line work is to push the brake pedal down about 3/4" and prop it securely in that position.
This will move the piston forward of the fluid inlet and prevent flow into the master
and out through the open line or lines. Caps or plugs are good insurance.
Old brake hoses fail invisibly. The failure is not usually described.
The hose swells closed internally preventing free movement of fluid. In both
directions. It can be necessary to cut the hose to release a stuck wheel cylinder or
caliper.
Removing rear hoses is simplified by cutting the hose off at the chassis end and using a deep socket and extension while holding the hard line fitting from turning with a fitting wrench.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
914forme
post Dec 5 2018, 07:00 PM
Post #7


Times a wastin', get wrenchin'!
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,005
Joined: 24-July 04
From: Dayton, Ohio
Member No.: 2,388



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If it is going to be setting a long time, I use old brake lines, cut them, crimp the ends flat a couple of times, and then clamp them in a vice, heat them up and run solder down the the line from the flare side.

You now have plugs to keep the everything nice and dry below.

If you don't know the age of the lines replace them. Also replace the fluid it absorbs water over time, which reduces its boiling point.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
BillC
post Dec 5 2018, 07:25 PM
Post #8


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 308
Joined: 24-April 15
From: Silver Spring, MD
Member No.: 18,667
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



QUOTE(914forme @ Dec 5 2018, 08:00 PM) *
Also replace the fluid it absorbs water over time, which reduces its boiling point.

Excellent point. Brake fluid in street cars should be flushed/replaced every two years (or less, but never longer). For race cars, brake fluid should be flushed much more often.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Highland
post Dec 6 2018, 10:51 AM
Post #9


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 212
Joined: 8-August 11
From: San Diego, CA
Member No.: 13,418
Region Association: Southern California



Thanks for all the good ideas.

I was planning on replacing all the soft lines, but am I understanding the hard lines should also be replaced. Of course, I understand if there is any damage they should be replaced, but are they like the soft lines where they just wear out?
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ChrisFoley
post Dec 6 2018, 11:12 AM
Post #10


I am Tangerine Racing
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 7,332
Joined: 29-January 03
From: Bolton, CT
Member No.: 209
Region Association: None



You don't need to replace the hard lines unless one is kinked or badly rusted.

As suggested above, move the pedal to 3/4 depressed so no fluid flows. Then cut the rear hoses close to where they clamp to the chassis and use a deep socket to grip the hex end instead of fighting with a flare nut or open end wrench in that confined space.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
PlaysWithCars
post Dec 6 2018, 11:50 PM
Post #11


In a love / hate relationship with my car
**

Group: Members
Posts: 368
Joined: 9-November 03
From: Southeast of Seattle
Member No.: 1,323
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



QUOTE(BillC @ Dec 5 2018, 02:47 PM) *

... put a vacuum cap over the end of the line. Quick, simple, and will keep it from dripping while you work on everything else.
This is what I usually do and it works great.

As an alternative I use a variation of this:
QUOTE(rgalla9146 @ Dec 5 2018, 03:51 PM) *

A simple way to stop leakage when doing open brake line work is to push the brake pedal down about 3/4" and prop it securely in that position.
This will move the piston forward of the fluid inlet and prevent flow into the master
and out through the open line or lines.

The objective is to stop fluid from running out of the fluid reservoir, through the master cylinder and out the open line. You can do this by disabling the vent in the fluid reservoir. On all 'newer' 914s the cap is the vent. If you take the cap off, put a single layer of saran wrap under it across the reservoir opening, and then reinstall the cap, you will only get a couple of drips out of the open line until there is enough vacuum in the reservoir to stop more fluid from running out. Just remember to remove it before you start bleeding the system. Or, you might spend a while scratching you head wondering what you did wrong when you can't bleed the system. Ahem... nothing to see here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
90quattrocoupe
post Dec 9 2018, 01:45 AM
Post #12


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 75
Joined: 4-November 16
From: Long Beach, CA.
Member No.: 20,561
Region Association: Southern California



Over the years of going to junkyards for the various VAG cars I own, I have picked up a lot of old flex brake lines. One end is female and the brake caliper end is male. I cut the lines, just about 1/2 inch from the fitting. Then I a take a screw, usually from the car I go them from, and run the screw run it up in the cut off hose.
Then I can use the female end on the male fittings, and male end on the caliper. Never leaks.

Greg W.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-20561-1544341558.1.jpg)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
cary
post Dec 9 2018, 09:21 AM
Post #13


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,500
Joined: 26-January 04
From: Sherwood Oregon
Member No.: 1,608
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



QUOTE(jcd914 @ Dec 5 2018, 02:39 PM) *

ends of old brake lines that have been cut off and bent over a crimped. Both of these screw into the end of a flex line and seal it.

Jim


Ditto. With all the brake work I've done I have a life time supply. Took 20 to Rothsport to use there too. Leave them just long enough to crimp.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 12th December 2018 - 03:49 PM