How to Cap the Brakes Lines for Staging, Seems obvious how to, but not to me Options

[Highland]

So I'm at the stage where I'm going to drop the brakes and suspension to change bearings, bushings, calipers, rotors, pads, shocks, springs, etc. I plan to start with the rear then move to the front.

So the car will probably be off its wheels for some time while I'm trying to figure this all out.

I've emptied the brake reservoir with a turkey baster, but of course there's still fluid in the lines. I'm also thinking it would be easier to bleed the lines if there's fluid in them.

My question is where is the best place to disconnect the brake lines (before or after the flex) and what's the best way to cap it so I don't end up with brake fluid on my paint?

[PlaysWithCars]

... put a vacuum cap over the end of the line. Quick, simple, and will keep it from dripping while you work on everything else.

This is what I usually do and it works great.

As an alternative I use a variation of this:

A simple way to stop leakage when doing open brake line work is to push the brake pedal down about 3/4" and prop it securely in that position.
This will move the piston forward of the fluid inlet and prevent flow into the master
and out through the open line or lines.

The objective is to stop fluid from running out of the fluid reservoir, through the master cylinder and out the open line. You can do this by disabling the vent in the fluid reservoir. On all 'newer' 914s the cap is the vent. If you take the cap off, put a single layer of saran wrap under it across the reservoir opening, and then reinstall the cap, you will only get a couple of drips out of the open line until there is enough vacuum in the reservoir to stop more fluid from running out. Just remember to remove it before you start bleeding the system. Or, you might spend a while scratching you head wondering what you did wrong when you can't bleed the system. Ahem... nothing to see here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)