Replacing "Bracket for Hinge Pillar" |
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Replacing "Bracket for Hinge Pillar" |
DickSteinkamp |
Dec 13 2018, 10:38 AM
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#21
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 500 Joined: 27-February 17 From: Bellingham, WA Member No.: 20,876 Region Association: None |
Yikes! Not pretty pictures.
I think mine was probably one of the easy ones compared to most and certainly compared to what George has pictured. Mine is a one owner, SoCal car, no rust anywhere (hell hole, battery tray, laterals, etc). The runk opened and closed smoothly. The only indication that something was amiss was that the right front corner of the runk lid was proud by about 1/8". In looking for a way to make it right I discovered the hinge bracket somewhat bent and held on by sheet metal screws. Evidently, lubing these pivot points had been neglected. The bracket had not torn the sheet metal below it when the welds broke. I can certainly see that if the job is complicated by rust, torn metal, repairs needed to the hell hole, etc. that removing the engine is a good idea and probably essential. |
IronHillRestorations |
Dec 13 2018, 12:04 PM
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#22
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,714 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
the factory originally welded the two together and that is how we make them, no reason to go through a double welding process FWIW, I usually add welds to the back side on the nut insert. I've gotten a spinner on that before. The restoration design piece has the nut insert separate and it has to be welded in from the back. Haven't done that yet, but what are your thoughts of also putting a few welds on the outside of the insert? BTW that RD piece is made of pretty thin stuff.. IMHO It doesn't take much time or effort to add some welds to the back, versus grinding that bracket off because the spot welds didn't hold. Your car do as you like. I've even reinforced those with some 16 gauge, as well as doing a grease mod to the shoulder bolt. |
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