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> Delving into Powder Coating, Finished 1st project....
ValcoOscar
post Dec 12 2018, 03:30 PM
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Well, after getting quotes on powder coating three sets of rims and misc suspension components I've decided to do my own powder coating. I've seen lots of YouTube videos but wanted some feedback from someone already doing this. Please share any tips.

My oven is 20 W x 24 D x 30 H so I'm thinking going with dual voltage Eastwood gun set up.

If I get decent at this, perhaps we can have a SoCal powder coating tech day in the near future. Any interest? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Oscar



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ndfrigi
post Dec 12 2018, 03:43 PM
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Nice sir Oscar!
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mepstein
post Dec 12 2018, 04:07 PM
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We do a lot at our shop. It's very easy to make things look nice. Get a bunch of the proper plugs and tape so you can keep the powder off the things you don't want coated. parts also have to be pretty clean before you coat them.

Our oven is about 5x5x5 and has a rolling rack to hold the parts that hang from a wire.
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StratPlayer
post Dec 12 2018, 04:08 PM
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Get your powder from https://www.columbiacoatings.com you can buy small amounts from them.
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mepstein
post Dec 12 2018, 04:12 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 12 2018, 05:07 PM) *

We do a lot at our shop. It's very easy to make things look nice. Get a bunch of the proper plugs and tape so you can keep the powder off the things you don't want coated. parts also have to be pretty clean before you coat them. It also helps to pre heat the larger parts.

Our oven is about 5x5x5 and has a rolling rack to hold the parts that hang from a wire.


I would build a large oven from plywood and sheetmetal and use an element from a craigslist oven at the bottom and then a metal hanging rack that rolls over the hot element.When the parts have cooked at 400 for 20 minutes, you just roll the rack out of the oven and let cool for a couple minutes.
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ValcoOscar
post Dec 12 2018, 04:15 PM
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QUOTE(StratPlayer @ Dec 12 2018, 02:08 PM) *

Get your powder from https://www.columbiacoatings.com you can buy small amounts from them.


Cool...I like color choices, easy to navigate on this site. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Thanks,

Oscar
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ValcoOscar
post Dec 12 2018, 04:23 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 12 2018, 02:12 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 12 2018, 05:07 PM) *

We do a lot at our shop. It's very easy to make things look nice. Get a bunch of the proper plugs and tape so you can keep the powder off the things you don't want coated. parts also have to be pretty clean before you coat them. It also helps to pre heat the larger parts.

Our oven is about 5x5x5 and has a rolling rack to hold the parts that hang from a wire.


I would build a large oven from plywood and sheetmetal and use an element from a craigslist oven at the bottom and then a metal hanging rack that rolls over the hot element.When the parts have cooked at 400 for 20 minutes, you just roll the rack out of the oven and let cool for a couple minutes.


Thanks Mark, I better take baby steps for now but this may be in my future. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Oscar
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76-914
post Dec 12 2018, 04:23 PM
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I haven't taken mine out of the package yet. I need to get an old oven so I can coat a few pieces. LMK. how it goes for you Oscar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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mepstein
post Dec 12 2018, 04:50 PM
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QUOTE(ValcoOscar @ Dec 12 2018, 05:23 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 12 2018, 02:12 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 12 2018, 05:07 PM) *

We do a lot at our shop. It's very easy to make things look nice. Get a bunch of the proper plugs and tape so you can keep the powder off the things you don't want coated. parts also have to be pretty clean before you coat them. It also helps to pre heat the larger parts.

Our oven is about 5x5x5 and has a rolling rack to hold the parts that hang from a wire.


I would build a large oven from plywood and sheetmetal and use an element from a craigslist oven at the bottom and then a metal hanging rack that rolls over the hot element.When the parts have cooked at 400 for 20 minutes, you just roll the rack out of the oven and let cool for a couple minutes.


Thanks Mark, I better take baby steps for now but this may be in my future. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

Oscar

The only problem with a large oven is the space it takes but being able to do a rack full of suspension parts or a bunch of engine tin is really nice. At first our local commercial place was fast and cheap but over time, they got expensive and slow. Once you get your setup, the powder is cheap. a jar lasts a long time. you might spend 10-25 cents per part.
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burton73
post Dec 12 2018, 04:53 PM
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Oscar,

I have used Blue M Ovens at my plastic factories for 35 years. I used an old Pizza oven from the out of business Brown Derby restaurant for a while.

Temperature control is very important. The base of the Blue M is a huge coil making the heat and a ½ HP motor blowing the air over the coil. Temperature control turning the heat on and off.

Do not forget the paint in the conversion is giving off flammable Vapors. The last Blue M
I bought on EBay was cheap but I had to go through it as it did not work right.

My current oven set up is inside 26” x 21” x 21” and the outside is 40” x 29” x 49”

220 volts. More than happy to go over what I know of industrial ovens. There is a learning curve on all things. Always happy to help if I can


Best regards,

Bob B
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StratPlayer
post Dec 12 2018, 05:00 PM
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Here are a few things that I've coated, using a home stove with oven.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=46185&hl=
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iankarr
post Dec 12 2018, 05:03 PM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 12 2018, 05:07 PM) *

We do a lot at our shop. It's very easy to make things look nice. Get a bunch of the proper plugs and tape so you can keep the powder off the things you don't want coated. parts also have to be pretty clean before you coat them.

Our oven is about 5x5x5 and has a rolling rack to hold the parts that hang from a wire.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
They sell assorted plug kits. Also a good idea to get a spool of wire to make your own hangers. I have the Eastwood dual voltage setup and also their oven...which is like a large countertop type. If you've got clean metal it's pretty easy to get nice results. make sure you have a dessicant or some inline dryer for the air source. Also there's something called the faraday cage effect which can interfere with coverage. Lots about that on the google.

Bottom line...it's fun and works well. Enjoy...and hope to see ya soon!
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ValcoOscar
post Dec 12 2018, 05:06 PM
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QUOTE(burton73 @ Dec 12 2018, 02:53 PM) *

Oscar,

I have used Blue M Ovens at my plastic factories for 35 years. I used an old Pizza oven from the out of business Brown Derby restaurant for a while.

Temperature control is very important. The base of the Blue M is a huge coil making the heat and a ½ HP motor blowing the air over the coil. Temperature control turning the heat on and off.

Do not forget the paint in the conversion is giving off flammable Vapors. The last Blue M
I bought on EBay was cheap but I had to go through it as it did not work right.

My current oven set up is inside 26” x 21” x 21” and the outside is 40” x 29” x 49”

220 volts. More than happy to go over what I know of industrial ovens. There is a learning curve on all things. Always happy to help if I can


Best regards,

Bob B



Got it Bob-

I used Blue M ovens in the past also when working with microelectronics. Stout industrial ovens.
My current oven has temperature control +/- 2 deg (doubt it) up to 425F with filtered air inlet and recirculating fan. Largest items I may tackle are rims and trailing arms, all else pretty small. Thanks
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infraredcalvin
post Dec 12 2018, 05:20 PM
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Until you want to throw a sway bar or valence in there. I started with a toaster oven, now have a used kitchen oven that’ll fit a arms. As others have said, cleaning and prep are the key, otherwise it’s easy to get nice finishes, you’ll start make excuses to pc more things....
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914forme
post Dec 13 2018, 08:29 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I still have my toaster. Always look at the idea of building a bigger unit. Rack wheels in, and hangs the parts.

If your using a blast cabinet, make sure it is clean, the cheap units are coated in something, that when it gets into the doors of your metal, it will come back out in your coat. I know people say clean clean clean, and that is true true true. But heavy cast parts will hide some indignities that you might not even find after several wipe downs.

For that reason, any part that I really care about the final appearance I will pre heat and out gas. Sometimes I will go for a really long time on the out gassing process. Pull clean, and redo.

Nice setup you will enjoy it. Then you will want a larger unit for the odd ball items like a sway bar. Valance, rockers, etc......
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Dr Evil
post Dec 13 2018, 08:44 AM
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I want to do this so bad. Now I dont have a barn, so, been on the back burner. May need to rent shop space again as I need a blaster, too.
This looked like a decent option to make my own. I need one big enough for motorcycle frames. At $250/frame and several project bikes, and no limit on need over my lifetime, seems a no brainer.
http://www.homediystuff.com/building-a-diy...filing-cabinet/
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IronHillRestorations
post Dec 13 2018, 08:59 AM
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I have the Eastwood Hot Coat kit that I got almost 20 years ago, and it works pretty well, but I haven't powder coated things in a while.

I don't remember what temperature I landed on, but the temp recommended with the kit was hotter than need be.

Sometimes the most difficult part is getting the "powdered" piece from the spray rack to the oven. If you brush off any powder, it'll leave a bare spot.

I use small gas welding rod to make hangers
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mepstein
post Dec 13 2018, 08:59 AM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Dec 13 2018, 09:44 AM) *

I want to do this so bad. Now I dont have a barn, so, been on the back burner. May need to rent shop space again as I need a blaster, too.
This looked like a decent option to make my own. I need one big enough for motorcycle frames. At $250/frame and several project bikes, and no limit on need over my lifetime, seems a no brainer.
http://www.homediystuff.com/building-a-diy...filing-cabinet/

Mike - Another option to look at is air dry Cerikote. very hard finish, no oven or special equipment. Just a spray gun and compressor. The paint is expensive but a little goes a long way. It doesn't have much thickness so tolerances for threads and press fit is much easier. Ben uses it for his 911 fan and shroud repair and it looks great. It shows more detail so that is a plus on some parts but won't hide corrosion like powder coat.
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Dr Evil
post Dec 13 2018, 09:14 AM
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QUOTE(mepstein @ Dec 13 2018, 09:59 AM) *

QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Dec 13 2018, 09:44 AM) *

I want to do this so bad. Now I dont have a barn, so, been on the back burner. May need to rent shop space again as I need a blaster, too.
This looked like a decent option to make my own. I need one big enough for motorcycle frames. At $250/frame and several project bikes, and no limit on need over my lifetime, seems a no brainer.
http://www.homediystuff.com/building-a-diy...filing-cabinet/

Mike - Another option to look at is air dry Cerikote. very hard finish, no oven or special equipment. Just a spray gun and compressor. The paint is expensive but a little goes a long way. It doesn't have much thickness so tolerances for threads and press fit is much easier. Ben uses it for his 911 fan and shroud repair and it looks great. It shows more detail so that is a plus on some parts but won't hide corrosion like powder coat.

I hadnt considered doing cerikote myself, but am familiar with it. Yes, pricey. Interesting idea. Thanks.
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bbrock
post Dec 13 2018, 03:21 PM
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Dec 13 2018, 07:44 AM) *


Why did you have to post this? The day before this thread started, I was shopping for toaster ovens and powder coating guns. Now you post this cool file cabinet thing? That's how it escalates! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
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