Steering Rack, Preventative Maintenance? |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
Steering Rack, Preventative Maintenance? |
bbrock |
Dec 18 2018, 11:55 AM
Post
#1
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
My steering rack is out (along with all the other parts of the car) and I'm getting ready to spruce it up and install turbo tie rod ends. Is it worth tearing it apart for a thorough cleaning, inspection, and refurbishing while I'm at it? My initial inspection shows it turns freely and smoothly through the whole range by hand. The housing cover looks like it was leaking grease so at a minimum, that needs replaced. The rack has about 100K miles of actual use and 35 years of just sitting. I'm not opposed to opening cans of worms but I have an abundance of cans and want to just open the ones worth opening.
And before somebody says it, I know that 914rubber offers a reasonably priced rebuild service for these, but this it a big, complete resto project on a budget. It only works if I supply all the labor I can. I've read through all the threads I could find on the subject and it doesn't look any harder than other stuff I've tackled. Opinions? |
mb911 |
Dec 18 2018, 02:23 PM
Post
#2
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,811 Joined: 2-January 09 From: Burlington wi Member No.: 9,892 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
My steering rack is out (along with all the other parts of the car) and I'm getting ready to spruce it up and install turbo tie rod ends. Is it worth tearing it apart for a thorough cleaning, inspection, and refurbishing while I'm at it? My initial inspection shows it turns freely and smoothly through the whole range by hand. The housing cover looks like it was leaking grease so at a minimum, that needs replaced. The rack has about 100K miles of actual use and 35 years of just sitting. I'm not opposed to opening cans of worms but I have an abundance of cans and want to just open the ones worth opening. And before somebody says it, I know that 914rubber offers a reasonably priced rebuild service for these, but this it a big, complete resto project on a budget. It only works if I supply all the labor I can. I've read through all the threads I could find on the subject and it doesn't look any harder than other stuff I've tackled. Opinions? It's actually very easy to do. I will tell you my quick experience I researched and learned that there are 3 versions of the rack. I took mine apart to clean up and also because it was rough through the range. I then replaced the bearings after buying the wrong bearing (actually the right bearing for the other 2 versions) and regreased and still didn't like how it felt rough. Then decided to sell it to 914 rubber for a core and bought a ZF rack out of a 911 and had tru-6 restore it in swap for some exhaust work. Had I not swapped work I would have done the second rack myself. It's a 15 minute rebuild.. I have a new bearing I could send you (FAG brand) if you decide to do it. |
Olympic 914 |
Dec 18 2018, 03:06 PM
Post
#3
|
Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
worth doing and not that hard.
Bearing numbers here. http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=273545&hl= |
bbrock |
Dec 18 2018, 04:59 PM
Post
#4
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation.
Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals? Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) |
mb911 |
Dec 18 2018, 05:18 PM
Post
#5
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,811 Joined: 2-January 09 From: Burlington wi Member No.: 9,892 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation. Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals? Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) I have the 16002.. Pm me your address.. And it's Ben (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
bbrock |
Dec 18 2018, 05:23 PM
Post
#6
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation. Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals? Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) I have the 16002.. Pm me your address.. And it's Ben (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Oh sorry Ben, I spent too much time on here today and got in my head that mepstein made that post. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) |
Olympic 914 |
Dec 18 2018, 05:36 PM
Post
#7
|
Group: Members Posts: 1,662 Joined: 7-July 11 From: Pittsburgh PA Member No.: 13,287 Region Association: North East States |
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation. Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals? Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) I have the 16002.. Pm me your address.. And it's Ben (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I'm Tom, AND I have a '73 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
bbrock |
Dec 18 2018, 05:41 PM
Post
#8
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
SOLD. I'm going in. So 2 bearings and a seal to replace. Anything else that should be replaced as a matter of routine while I'm in there? Anyone know where to get the housing gasket? Looks like it is NLA. Also, do people who do this check and adjust the end play or do they just assume it's okay if nothing other than bearings are replaced? I'm wondering because it looks like the thickness of the gasket figures into the end play equation. Mark, I may take you up on that bearing. How do I know which I need? My car is a 73 like Tom's so I'm guessing the same bearing (FAG 16002)? Anyone have a recommendation on where to buy bearings and seals? Thanks for the help guys. Another can of worms to open (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) I have the 16002.. Pm me your address.. And it's Ben (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I'm Tom, AND I have a '73 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) At least I got one of you right! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) |
Rob-O |
Dec 18 2018, 10:11 PM
Post
#9
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,251 Joined: 5-December 03 From: Mansfield, TX Member No.: 1,419 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Word of advice, keep track of the shims. They’re under the small cover in the middle of the rack, bottom. They’re job is to apply a set pressure to the rack gear.
|
Matty900 |
Dec 18 2018, 10:33 PM
Post
#10
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,269 Joined: 21-February 15 From: Oregon Member No.: 18,454 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Sent you an email with some help
|
bbrock |
Dec 20 2018, 03:51 PM
Post
#11
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Well this is interesting... I know from watching Ian Karr's video that the turbo tie rod kit doesn't come with spring retainers to secure the bellow ends, that the outer bellows are a different diameter than original stock, and he suggests using zip ties instead. I thought I'd look up the part number for the turbo retainers and see if they were still available. The PET lists two retainer part numbers for the 911 SC (same as for the 914) but none for the turbo. Apparently, Porsche decided the turbo didn't need no stinking springs.
|
914forme |
Dec 20 2018, 09:32 PM
Post
#12
|
Times a wastin', get wrenchin'! Group: Members Posts: 3,896 Joined: 24-July 04 From: Dayton, Ohio Member No.: 2,388 Region Association: None |
If your adding turbo tie rods you will need a thin 32MM wrench for the installation. A BMW fan wrench works great for the proper size and it is thin, also has superb leverage compared to the 32mm cone wrenches used for bicycle repair.
BMW Fan wrench |
bbrock |
Dec 20 2018, 09:37 PM
Post
#13
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
If your adding turbo tie rods you will need a thin 32MM wrench for the installation. A BMW fan wrench works great for the proper size and it is thin, also has superb leverage compared to the 32mm cone wrenches used for bicycle repair. BMW Fan wrench Thanks for the tip! I was planning to visit the local bike shop for the wrench but this looks better. Probably don't want to put the nice new tie rods on the same way I took the old ones off - with a pipe wrench (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
mepstein |
Dec 21 2018, 08:15 AM
Post
#14
|
914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,239 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
If your adding turbo tie rods you will need a thin 32MM wrench for the installation. A BMW fan wrench works great for the proper size and it is thin, also has superb leverage compared to the 32mm cone wrenches used for bicycle repair. BMW Fan wrench Thanks for the tip! I was planning to visit the local bike shop for the wrench but this looks better. Probably don't want to put the nice new tie rods on the same way I took the old ones off - with a pipe wrench (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) A pipe wrench is the proper tool to remove them so you don’t damage your good wrench. Same with ball joint nut and top strut nut. |
bbrock |
Dec 21 2018, 10:19 AM
Post
#15
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
A pipe wrench is the proper tool to remove them so you don’t damage your good wrench. Same with ball joint nut and top strut nut. Done both of those too. I'm guessing I could have gotten the old tie rods off by just cocking the joints 90 degrees and using them as their own wrench. I ordered a BMW wrench on ebay. Found a double end version for a couple bucks cheaper. I dodn't see a BMW in my future so figured I'd be more likely to find a use for the 36mm end than whatever that special bar is that comes with the fan clutch setup. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.ebayimg.com-20845-1545409190.1.png) |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 25th April 2024 - 05:52 PM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |