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> Basic Rear Suspension Rehab Questions, Bushings, shocks, services
jmitro
post Feb 9 2019, 10:24 PM
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QUOTE(Luke M @ Feb 9 2019, 11:20 AM) *
I have the same issues with my new bushings that I purchased at PP..
Gap at the top side lower is fine. I'm told it's because the housings are 914.


same here; i ground them down real gently on my bench grinder and now they seat properly
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bbrock
post Mar 8 2019, 11:28 PM
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QUOTE(Matty900 @ Feb 8 2019, 06:34 PM) *

Prototype version 2 will be done in the next few weeks. They need to be test fitted at that point before we go forward on the production run. I believe we have it dialed in at this point and the prototypes will be great. We most likely will have a few extra that Mark may be persuaded to let go for R&D on a car or 2


@Matty900 Any update on the rubber trailing arm bushings? Going to be blasting and painting my trailing arms this weekend to start reassembly. Will be installing your hard bushings and SS pivot shafts but wondering if it would be worth waiting for the rubber version. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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rudedude
post Mar 9 2019, 09:47 AM
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Are you saying that the bushings that I got a year ago with the stainless shaft have been upgraded to something you think is better? I was going to put them in in the near future and will wait if need be for improved version.
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bbrock
post Mar 9 2019, 10:20 AM
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QUOTE(rudedude @ Mar 9 2019, 08:47 AM) *

Are you saying that the bushings that I got a year ago with the stainless shaft have been upgraded to something you think is better? I was going to put them in in the near future and will wait if need be for improved version.


I'm in the same boat. What was explained to me at the time of the GB for the hard bushings is that rubber isn't necessarily "better," but they would restore the OEM ride if that's what you are looking for. I am, but at the time, it didn't sound like rubber was going to be offered due to installation challenges. Sounds like that my be about to change...
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Matty900
post Mar 13 2019, 04:52 PM
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I have the hard ones with the SS shaft in my car and they are ok but the Rubber ones we are making now will be like factory. We took over another unit and are working on getting it set up but we will have thai soon. I will follow up with Mark and see where we are at on them and report back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Highland
post Mar 14 2019, 03:44 PM
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Getting ready to assemble the rear strut with Bilstein shocks and 100 lb springs from 914rubber. Just a few more questions:

1) Are parts 4 and 5 not applicable to Bilstein shocks?

2) Is part 6 orientated small hole up? It's been too long since I took it apart to remember.

3) If the top ring recess (furthest from the ground) is #1, is the #3 slot the correct slot for the clip (part 2)?

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bbrock
post Mar 14 2019, 04:02 PM
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I just finished installing my Bilsteins like 30 minutes ago! Here's what I can tell you:

- #4 is definately for Boge shocks only and not used for Bilstein.

- I don't think either #5 or #6 is needed with Bilstein gas shocks. I installed them anyway, mainly for appearance. #6 goes small hole up. I believe there is a better pic of it in the Factory Manual.

- I mounted my lower spring perch in the highest ring but you will probably need to go one or two lower. I installed my factory springs which are rated at only about 52 lbs. and that's about where they tested. I just put the Bilstein shocks next to my old Boge I am replacing and chose the perch that best matched the Boge. I may need to readjust after the car is put back together, but that's where I started. With stiffer springs, I'd assume you would need to lower the perch to retain the ride height but I'll let the smart people who actually know what they are talking about chime in.
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Highland
post Mar 17 2019, 05:58 PM
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I just want to verify a few things before I mount the rear trailing arms:

1) In theory are these shaft splines suppose to bind against the suspension ear and part #5 so the shaft stays stationary and the rubber bushing rotates with the arm during operation?

Attached ImageAttached Image

2) Is washer #8 the only washer in the shaft assembly? It's the only one I remember taking off, but it seems strange there isn't one between the nut(#7) and part #5.

3) Are both shafts torqued to 108 ft-lb?

4) I bought this rear sway bar bushing from 914Rubber. Does it need to be cut or is there some creative way of slipping it onto the sway bar?

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bbrock
post Mar 17 2019, 06:24 PM
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QUOTE(Highland @ Mar 17 2019, 05:58 PM) *

I just want to verify a few things before I mount the rear trailing arms:

1) In theory are these shaft splines suppose to bind against the suspension ear and part #5 so the shaft stays stationary and the rubber bushing rotates with the arm during operation?


That is my interpretation of how it works.

QUOTE
2) Is washer #8 the only washer in the shaft assembly? It's the only one I remember taking off, but it seems strange there isn't one between the nut(#7) and part #5.


The washer isn't needed on the outer side because the bearing (part #5) acts as its own washer.

QUOTE
3) Are both shafts torqued to 108 ft-lb?


No. The outside bolted to part#5 gets 108 ft-lbs., but the inner on the ear only gets 87 ft-lbs. It takes a little deciphering to get that out of the factory manual, but that's what it says.

QUOTE
4) I bought this rear sway bar bushing from 914Rubber. Does it need to be cut or is there some creative way of slipping it onto the sway bar?


Hmm. Yes, it should be split but my 914Rubber bushing came already split. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Use synthetic (non-petroleum, e.g. pure silicone) grease on those bushings.
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914Toy
post Mar 17 2019, 06:53 PM
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I just completed installing Elephant Racing rubberbushings in the front A arms and the rear trailing arms. Very pleased with the omprovement in ride and car handling. Unless you are building a track car, this is the way to go. You do need the tools to install the bushings - not easy but very “doable” with the tools and a bar clamp at least 36 inches long.
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