 Question on shift bushing at the rear of the transmission rod |
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| Tdskip |
 Jan 10 2019, 02:54 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member  Group: Members Posts: 3,684 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None 
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Hola!
For a side shift transmission, how much if any day white should there be between the bushing in the shift rod where it meets the rear assembly? You can see daylight through this picture and Aiken feel a fair amount of play when I move the rod up or down or left or right. How snug should that be? Thanks gentlemen.  |
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| Tdskip |
Jan 10 2019, 03:10 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,684 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None
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Sorry - part # 914-424-224-00
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| Dave_Darling |
Jan 10 2019, 03:25 PM
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#3
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,981 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California
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There should be very little. Looks like your rear shift rod may be necked down from decades of wear. Inspect with a straight-edge; if it is then you will need to machine it back to size. Some build it up with weld and turn down on a lathe, others turn it down first and then install a sleeve.
You may be able to take some play out just by replacing the bushing; the one there looks a bit old anyway. If you want to basically remove all play, then look into Tangerine Racing's linkage update kit. It's a moderately complex install, but it mounts everything more solidly (support on each side of the shift console!) and results in far less play. --DD |
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| ndfrigi |
Jan 10 2019, 03:26 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,928 Joined: 21-August 11 From: Orange County Member No.: 13,474 Region Association: Southern California
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there should be no movement or very minimal. buy the copper bushing replacement for it.
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| Tdskip |
Jan 10 2019, 03:30 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,684 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None
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Wow - good eyes Dave, there is a very slight taper to it but I didnt think to mention it.
Correct that there should be none? I may have a spare shift rod to compare it to around here... Thanks! |
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| dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Jan 10 2019, 03:36 PM
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#6
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,816 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
none over the years the console wears out so we end up epoxying in the bushing
QUOTE(Tdskip @ Jan 10 2019, 01:54 PM)  Hola! For a side shift transmission, how much if any day white should there be between the bushing in the shift rod where it meets the rear assembly? You can see daylight through this picture and Aiken feel a fair amount of play when I move the rod up or down or left or right. How snug should that be? Thanks gentlemen. |
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| Tdskip |
Jan 10 2019, 03:37 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,684 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None
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Epoxy in order to build up the bushing - or where the bushing mounts?
Thanks George. |
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| Dr Evil |
Jan 28 2019, 07:43 AM
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#8
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Send me your transmission! Group: Members Posts: 22,993 Joined: 21-November 03 From: Loveland, OH 45140 Member No.: 1,372 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region
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Ideally, there should be no play, but as mentioned there is tapering of the shift rod end and wallowing out of the hole the bushing sits in. Epoxy works for holding the bushing in place, but my little cheap cheat is to thread part of a zip tie in there between the bushing and the housing. If the bushing pops out with this, then epoxy or bore and place of a oilite bushing is in order. For the rod, nothing short of adding material and turning it down, or cut old end off and weld on new end, will suffice. Depends on resources and level of skill.
The accordion cover and bowl cover are key to keeping grime out, which once inside acts as an abrasive to wear out the shaft. Most of us dont have the accordion, many dont have the bottom cover, either. |
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| Tdskip |
Jan 28 2019, 07:47 AM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,684 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None
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QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Jan 28 2019, 08:43 AM) Ideally, there should be no play, but as mentioned there is tapering of the shift rod end and wallowing out of the hole the bushing sits in. Epoxy works for holding the bushing in place, but my little cheap cheat is to thread part of a zip tie in there between the bushing and the housing. If the bushing pops out with this, then epoxy or bore and place of a oilite bushing is in order. For the rod, nothing short of adding material and turning it down, or cut old end off and weld on new end, will suffice. Depends on resources and level of skill. The accordion cover and bowl cover are key to keeping grime out, which once inside acts as an abrasive to wear out the shaft. Most of us dont have the accordion, many dont have the bottom cover, either. Doc! Thanks for the additional info, helpful. |
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| michael7810 |
Jan 28 2019, 07:58 AM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,079 Joined: 6-June 11 From: Scottsdale, AZ Member No.: 13,164 Region Association: Southwest Region
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Changed mine recently and it had a significant amount of daylight. Cut a strip of LeCroix can and wrapped the bushing with 2 loops of the aluminum and it made for a perfect fit. Shifts into first better than ever.
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| Tdskip |
Jan 28 2019, 08:29 AM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,684 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None
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Good morning Michael.
So, can you compress the bushing slightly to deal with the tampering OR do you need to add metal back to the shift rod if tapering is the issue? I belief you need to add some metal back (or replace it), correct? Just want to make sure that we're not confusing wear where the bushing mounts with wear on the shift rod. |
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