Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

4 Pages V  1 2 3 > »   
Reply to this topicStart new topic
> Time To Do The Engine, Going with a SCAT 2366cc
7TPorsh
post Jan 15 2019, 04:58 PM
Post #1


7T Porsh
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,620
Joined: 27-March 06
From: La Canada Flintridge, Ca
Member No.: 5,782
Region Association: Southern California



Well, car is running like crap and compression is 98-110. Buddy mechanic says there isn't enough there to work with. So need to explore options. Was looking for a 6 awhile ago but that's just too expensive.

I have a 1971 1.7 block (car is 1970), may have bigger cylinders in it but don't know. What are the options if on a slightly restricted budget? I want big and more power but I know there's a tipping point on that.

I see new engines advertised here and there. SCAT 2056.
Contemplating, do I buy a new engine like this? (any others out there?) or rebuild what I have using a SCAT engine kit or piecing it together using various kits.

How big can I easily (budget) go? Currently don't know what I have so assumming a new cam, new crank, etc.

I plan on using the existing dual Weber 40IDFs and the MSDS headers/muffler.

Here's a pic so there's something visual here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Rand
post Jan 15 2019, 05:23 PM
Post #2


Cross Member
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,686
Joined: 8-February 05
From: OR
Member No.: 3,573
Region Association: None



Are you committed to staying with air cooled four?
I respect it if you do, but it's a pig - flack me here, but it just is so limited. Are you looking at other options? Budget?
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Rand
post Jan 15 2019, 05:25 PM
Post #3


Cross Member
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,686
Joined: 8-February 05
From: OR
Member No.: 3,573
Region Association: None



Just to clear the air, I love flat fours. Anemic and all.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Rand
post Jan 15 2019, 05:26 PM
Post #4


Cross Member
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,686
Joined: 8-February 05
From: OR
Member No.: 3,573
Region Association: None



Please toss carbs and go FI to open a new world.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
7TPorsh
post Jan 15 2019, 05:35 PM
Post #5


7T Porsh
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,620
Joined: 27-March 06
From: La Canada Flintridge, Ca
Member No.: 5,782
Region Association: Southern California



I have a fairly reasonable mechanic and access to reasonable machining. So a straight remove replace would be ideal. If I can rebuild and go big enough and powerful enough to be better than complete 2056 I think I might opt that way. How big can I safely go with a 1.7 block and heads....is it worth it or do I really need to get a 2.0 blck.

I really like the idea of keeping it aircooled; mainly for the classic character of the car and it's simplicity of operation and maintenance. I can say I have an "air cooled Porsche". I;ve seen some pretty damn fast Bugs.

Otherwise I'd drop a 350 in it and be done with it.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
7TPorsh
post Jan 15 2019, 05:36 PM
Post #6


7T Porsh
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,620
Joined: 27-March 06
From: La Canada Flintridge, Ca
Member No.: 5,782
Region Association: Southern California



Budget I'm thinking $4-5k not including the drop and install.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
7TPorsh
post Jan 15 2019, 05:36 PM
Post #7


7T Porsh
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,620
Joined: 27-March 06
From: La Canada Flintridge, Ca
Member No.: 5,782
Region Association: Southern California



Open to FI if it fits budget, etc.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
mepstein
post Jan 15 2019, 05:45 PM
Post #8


914-6 GT in waiting
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 12,136
Joined: 19-September 09
From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE
Member No.: 10,825
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Jan 15 2019, 06:35 PM) *

I have a fairly reasonable mechanic and access to reasonable machining. So a straight remove replace would be ideal. If I can rebuild and go big enough and powerful enough to be better than complete 2056 I think I might opt that way. How big can I safely go with a 1.7 block and heads....is it worth it or do I really need to get a 2.0 blck.

I really like the idea of keeping it aircooled; mainly for the classic character of the car and it's simplicity of operation and maintenance. I can say I have an "air cooled Porsche". I;ve seen some pretty damn fast Bugs.

Otherwise I'd drop a 350 in it and be done with it.

Remember, All the blocks are (almost) exactly the same and can be made into any engine size. Jake Raby has often said the early 1.7's were the best blocks for monster engines since the metal mix was slightly better.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
BeatNavy
post Jan 15 2019, 06:10 PM
Post #9


914World Participation Award Awardee
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,719
Joined: 26-February 14
From: P-Falls, NoVA
Member No.: 17,042
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



I'm in the process of building out the 1.7 that came with my '72 into a 2056. Looks like all-in I'm just over $5K in parts and services (e.g., machining, new turn-key 2.0 heads from Len Hoffman, etc.). I'm doing the assembly myself.

Yes, as Mark says, the 1.7 case is a great base with which to start. But to get to a proper 2056 you'll want need 2.0 heads, a new cam, a 2.0 crank, 2.0 connecting rods, the case checked for bore and register alignment, parts balancing, etc., etc.. As well as a whole bunch of other odds and ends. I did not skimp anywhere on the parts or services, so you should probably be able to do it for less than $5k with a little creativity and patience sourcing parts. The heads are the biggest single cost.

Converting to FI will require sourcing additional parts (~$500?), but IMO, it's worth it. I like FI.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Dave_Darling
post Jan 15 2019, 06:11 PM
Post #10


914 Idiot
**********

Group: Members
Posts: 14,074
Joined: 9-January 03
From: Silly-con Valley, CA
Member No.: 121
Region Association: Northern California



For $5K, talk to McMark at Original Customs. He should be able to build you something in the 1911cc-2056cc range that will push you down the road more than adequately.

Almost any higher-powered engine swap will cost you more in the long run, so I think it is preferable to stay with the "anemic air-cooled flat four".

If you have the carbs already, keep them. You presumably know their ins and outs, their strengths and weaknesses. If you don't have any induction, consider an aftermarket EFI--but that will eat into your budget!!

--DD
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
JeffBowlsby
post Jan 15 2019, 06:21 PM
Post #11


914 Wiring Harnesses
*****

Group: Members
Posts: 6,697
Joined: 7-January 03
From: San Ramon CA
Member No.: 104
Region Association: None



T4s do not have 'blocks' they have 'cases'. Two case halves technically.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
Mark Henry
post Jan 15 2019, 07:05 PM
Post #12


that's what I do!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 17,475
Joined: 27-December 02
From: Port Hope, Ontario
Member No.: 26
Region Association: Canada



QUOTE(7TPorsh @ Jan 15 2019, 06:36 PM) *

Open to FI if it fits budget, etc.


Stock FI will only work with a stock cam or WEB #73 (may be other aftermarket cams)

Aftermarket FI even MS and scrounging DIY, etc the intake, will be well over $1000, more likely $2K. Soup to nuts systems with CB ITB's likely will be more in the $3-4K range. They run most cams but may have issue (MAP vac signal) with real lumpy cams.

Carbs are still the cheapest option with performance cams and can be made to run well. Carbs do get poorer gas mileage, if it's a daily driver i'd pony up for the FI, but a weekend toy I'd likely just live with the carbs.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
wndsrfr
post Jan 15 2019, 07:48 PM
Post #13


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,034
Joined: 30-April 09
From: Rescue, Virginia
Member No.: 10,318
Region Association: MidAtlantic Region



Here's another one....to consider....https://fatperformance-rimco.com/collections/type-iv-motor-builds/products/2258cc-fat-performance-type-iv-long-block
You would likely need to work with the carbs and add a decent header type exhaust like Tangerine but would probably be pushing over 150Hp .....
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
914forme
post Jan 15 2019, 09:26 PM
Post #14


Times a wastin', get wrenchin'!
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,132
Joined: 24-July 04
From: Dayton, Ohio
Member No.: 2,388



Tangerine header and muffler will push to half or more of your rebuild budget.

I have run 1911s and they can be a blast, move you along nicely and are not that bad to build.

I would go 2270 if you can source parts well.

But then have you ever thought about ......
Subaru (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
2.5L none turbo, with an MT5 is the best step out there, and you can find the donor with everything you might need. except the mount, not hard, and the cable shifter pieces, which can be sourced from 818 part suppliers.

Donor #1

Donor #2

Both public can buy, both are pure sale, both run and drive. Just go in knowing your budget you want to spend. Bid, and you might get one. Subaru sixes are not much more than the 2.5L -4s. Every now and again complete swaps show up on here from people installing new combinations for more HP.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ConeDodger
post Jan 15 2019, 09:30 PM
Post #15


Apex killer!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,642
Joined: 31-December 04
From: Tahoe Area
Member No.: 3,380
Region Association: Northern California



2056 to 2270 are the tipping point. Beyond that, the builder should really know Type IV motors because you can make more heat than HP and torque pretty easily.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ConeDodger
post Jan 15 2019, 09:32 PM
Post #16


Apex killer!
***************

Group: Members
Posts: 20,642
Joined: 31-December 04
From: Tahoe Area
Member No.: 3,380
Region Association: Northern California



Oh, and that’s a really nice looking car! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drunk.gif)
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
914_teener
post Jan 15 2019, 09:40 PM
Post #17


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 3,838
Joined: 31-August 08
From: So. Cal
Member No.: 9,489
Region Association: Southern California



Put new pistons 96's and rebuild the heads. 2k.
1911. Keep everything else the way it is.

Get a six....986 or 987 and drive it like you stole it..

Best of both worlds.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
ndfrigi
post Jan 15 2019, 10:24 PM
Post #18


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,666
Joined: 21-August 11
From: Orange County
Member No.: 13,474
Region Association: Southern California



QUOTE(914_teener @ Jan 15 2019, 07:40 PM) *

Put new pistons 96's and rebuild the heads. 2k.
1911. Keep everything else the way it is.

Get a six....986 or 987 and drive it like you stole it..

Best of both worlds.


I second here for less budget to rebuild your engine to 1911 dual carb or djet. Removal of engine and install is not that hard. You can drop the engine by yourself. Then buy a 986 for rain and hot summer drive.
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
BK911
post Jan 16 2019, 09:31 AM
Post #19


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 568
Joined: 19-February 04
From: Rocky Top, TN
Member No.: 1,674
Region Association: None



I'd do a leak down on current engine to determine why it's running poorly.
Then decide if I need a new engine.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
thelogo
post Jan 16 2019, 11:05 AM
Post #20


Senior Member
***

Group: Members
Posts: 1,025
Joined: 6-April 10
From: monrovaia ca
Member No.: 11,572
Region Association: Southern California



I was at the same cross road as you were this time last year .

I got a plug and play big/4 engine (seller says it was a 12k build) from a member here for 5k
And it worked out great .

Much happier then a rebuild . And 3x as fast/powerful .


Had the 1.7 rebuilt while outta the car and considering going back to stock . Id let the big /4 go for 5500$(complete package ,plug and play)

and if you want to come see it run and ride in the car before buying , that would not be a problem.
Since im in monrovia let me know . Got the engine and had my fun with it , i think its got about 5k miles on it .

And if you are going to have yours rebuilt , make sure a warranty is provided ,because it takes major skill to just build a stock 1600 .
Let alone a type 4 . So dont go with a beginner engine builder on this one ! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
User is online!Profile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

4 Pages V  1 2 3 > » 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 19th February 2019 - 09:53 PM