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> THE COLONEL Question., Shell integrity
Stoddy
post Apr 15 2019, 04:25 AM
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Hi all

I'm a way off yet but when I come to cutting out the rust, how do I know how much I can take before I need a chassis brace? I'm planning on a rotisserie approach which i think will mean that the chassis will be suspended from each far end, therefore putting the most leverage on the weakest spot, ie, the floor and sills. Do I just go straight for braces? It feels like that makes the most sense but wondered if anyone had any advice.

Cheers!


Stoddy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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preach
post Apr 15 2019, 03:12 PM
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QUOTE(tygaboy @ Apr 15 2019, 10:04 AM) *


$325 seems a heck of a price for a rotisserie. I have 3 engine stands and I don't know if I could make one for that price using two of them.

Do the door braces ever show up in the classifieds?

@Stoddy I am right there with you brother. Spent the weekend with a wire wheel to assess the brown cancer my '74 has.
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bbrock
post Apr 15 2019, 03:26 PM
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QUOTE(preach @ Apr 15 2019, 03:12 PM) *

QUOTE(tygaboy @ Apr 15 2019, 10:04 AM) *


$325 seems a heck of a price for a rotisserie. I have 3 engine stands and I don't know if I could make one for that price using two of them.

Do the door braces ever show up in the classifieds?

@Stoddy I am right there with you brother. Spent the weekend with a wire wheel to assess the brown cancer my '74 has.


I agree that's a good price although shipping may add. I spent less than that for materials to build mine, but not much less.

I'm a CSOB so made adjustable door braces from black iron plumbing pipe, threaded rod and a couple turnbuckles. Again, the Tangerine braces are Cadillac compared to my Hillbilly Hank specials, but mine got the job done. I good feature on any braces whether bought or made is to be able to install doors with braces in place. There is a sweet satisfaction in being able to watch your door gaps open or close to perfection with the easy twist of the adjuster.
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