Throw out bearing failure, What are the symptoms? Options

[malcolm2]

40000 miles since 2013. My 1st tow today.....

I don't consider the time I got a Uhaul car hauler as a tow, but technically I guess it is. ALT failure that time.

[SirAndy]

Throw out bearing failure, What are the symptoms?

Horrible noise from the clutch when you (are trying to) use it ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

[malcolm2]

Throw out bearing failure, What are the symptoms?

Horrible noise from the clutch when you (are trying to) use it ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif)

Sounds familiar..... and for the good of the group. The noise lasts about 60 miles, then the clutch does nothing.

I guess that is, or was my problem. Is that all I should expect when I open her up? Excessive Pressure plate wear.... Isn't that the gizmo with the spring fingers?

I plan on a new seal, I think this one has been leaking since day one. Maybe just do an every-damn-thing-replacement.....

Tranny removal only? I have done that about 5 times.

[ericoneal]

Sounds like this:

914 Clutch Noise

Took two tries to get this noise to go away. Dont replace the bearing with one that the previous owner gave you in a box of stuff with the car, buy a new one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

[malcolm2]

not as good a video as yours. But this one is about 20 minutes before failure.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTiSD_fCtic

[Mark Henry]

Not saying this is the case, 40K is pretty good, but #1 reason for TOB failure is drivers who rest their foot on the clutch pedal. They press on the pedal enough that the bearing is always spinning, causing premature failure.

The cutch should be used sparingly, I produces a lot of pressure on the crank (bearing) thrust surface. I've seen two 996 engine failures from thrust bearings failure directly related to clutch overuse. Starting in neutral and even shifting to neutral and letting your foot off the clutch at stop lights is a good habit to get into.

[Spoke]

Could a mis-adjusted clutch cable also lead to TOB failure? It would seem if the cable is too tight it would be the same as resting a foot on the clutch pedal.

[malcolm2]

Good info Mark. I pretty much have always waited on traffic in front to move or watch the light before i engage.

About 3 weeks ago i needed to adjust the clutch. Pedal friction point was low. Even at half pedal friction point, i felt like i could hear the TO at idle and driving. But could not adjust the cable to make the whirring go away.

Then Saturday, at times, the whirring would get pretty loud while driving, even louder at shifting.

[Mark Henry]

Could a mis-adjusted clutch cable also lead to TOB failure? It would seem if the cable is too tight it would be the same as resting a foot on the clutch pedal.

Yes it definitely can, the pedal must fully return to the rest position and there must be 1/2"-3/4" play.
If there's no play or the the pedal isn't returning all the way the bearing is still engaged and spinning just as fast as the engine. This also would wear on the pressure plate fingers.

[tejon007]

Not saying this is the case, 40K is pretty good, but #1 reason for TOB failure is drivers who rest their foot on the clutch pedal. They press on the pedal enough that the bearing is always spinning, causing premature failure.

The cutch should be used sparingly, I produces a lot of pressure on the crank (bearing) thrust surface. I've seen two 996 engine failures from thrust bearings failure directly related to clutch overuse. Starting in neutral and even shifting to neutral and letting your foot off the clutch at stop lights is a good habit to get into.

TOB is easier to replace than thrust bearing failure., so I agree with Mark... Easy on the clutch, especially if you have a high pressure one.

Also, this is why it's a good idea to install a double thrust bearing on the cam because of the side loads on the camshaft (buy two cam bearing sets, it's cheaper than buying a double thrust bearing cam set - they just combine two sets anyway).

[malcolm2]

Burnt up bearing. I found a Sachs branch for 118 on FCPeuro.com. Cool thing is everythingvthey sell has a lifetime warranty.

[malcolm2]

[malcolm2]

I suppose my phone takes pix that are too big. I wish 914would could just auto size every. Come facebook does it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

[malcolm2]

Washer under the ball pivot question.

So the washer raises the pivot point, correct?

Remind me why we add the washer. Does it add pressure? Or distance the TOB can travel?

[dlee6204]

Washer inder the ball pivot question.

So the washer raises the pivot point, correct?

Remind me why we add the washer. Does it add pressure? Or distance the TOB can travel?

To compensate if you'd had your flywheel machined down. If your flywheel hasn't been surfaced, you shouldn't need it

[porschetub]

Washer inder the ball pivot question.

So the washer raises the pivot point, correct?

Remind me why we add the washer. Does it add pressure? Or distance the TOB can travel?

No you shouldn't need the washer but do replace the nylon ball cup anyway,is that a Sach's pressure plate or aftermarket...don't see the usual markings to indicate it is ?.
IMO I wouldn't use that pressure plate again as the spring fingers appear to be pretty chewed out ,most likely caused by the bearing seizing up and collapsing .
If you do replace the pressure plate only buy a Saches ZF no aftermarket ones cut the the mustard again IMO.
Good luck.

[malcolm2]

Washer inder the ball pivot question.

So the washer raises the pivot point, correct?

Remind me why we add the washer. Does it add pressure? Or distance the TOB can travel?

To compensate if you'd had your flywheel machined down. If your flywheel hasn't been surfaced, you shouldn't need it

Plan is to buy a new PP and clutch. Clutch looks ok, but what the hell. The flywheel was machined in 2012. I figured i would take it back to Tennessee Clutch. What are the tolerances, how to measure? I wonder if TN Clutch would know or even measure. I always got there at 4 and they were all drinking Busch.

[Spoke]

...Plan is to buy a new PP and clutch.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

While it's opened up might as well put a new clutch in unless the existing one is brand new. Maybe also the main shaft seal into the transmission. Flywheel needle bearing too?

[malcolm2]

...Plan is to buy a new PP and clutch.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

While it's opened up might as well put a new clutch in unless the existing one is brand new. Maybe also the main shaft seal into the transmission. Flywheel needle bearing too?

Tranz main seal looks good. But a PO used j b weld. Bought an ez lok kit today to fix that.

[malcolm2]

Washer inder the ball pivot question.

So the washer raises the pivot point, correct?

Remind me why we add the washer. Does it add pressure? Or distance the TOB can travel?

No you shouldn't need the washer but do replace the nylon ball cup anyway,is that a Sach's pressure plate or aftermarket...don't see the usual markings to indicate it is ?.
IMO I wouldn't use that pressure plate again as the spring fingers appear to be pretty chewed out ,most likely caused by the bearing seizing up and collapsing .
If you do replace the pressure plate only buy a Saches ZF no aftermarket ones cut the the mustard again IMO.
Good luck.

The PP was re built locally. I am going with new. the TOB ate the fingers.