alternator options April 2019? Options

[dflesburg]

What are the current alternator options for the type 4 these days, the 160amp guy seems to be no longer around.

I know a guy that created a new mount and put a gm alternator on his car.

Whats being done?

[malcolm2]

My 55 amp one went out last year. I did some research then and found the guy you are talking about. But he was too busy to "build" anymore. I kinda wanted to do the set-up myself, but he would not pass on his propriety (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) info. And they were way too expensive. My next thought was to get a 70 amp one that VW used on late 70's campers sent to the great white north. That also failed to develop an alternative. It seems there just were not very many campers sent to Canada.

But just last week a guy in Washington state found my WTB ad on TheSamba and sent me 2 pulleys with fans, pulled from 79 Canadian campers. IIRC this ALT does not use the elbow tube from the TIV cooling fan, so it needs a fan on the pulley. I also remember the need for a larger opening on the ALT front tin. It has been too long. I think I have some threads out there you could search by MALCOLM2.


I may look into it again, cause I am building a Bay Window bus that is gonna need an alternator.....

[Rob-O]

I have a 100amp one wire GM alternator on my car. It doesn't allow for the use of the cooling tin in that area, which I don't like. But it works well. I'll see if I can snap a photo of the setup here in the next day or so.

[914Sixer]

Seller on Ebay has high output alternators.

[saigon71]

For stock I wonder if it's worth taking a chance on this one:

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting...66988_100967_0#

[Bleyseng]

My 55 amp one went out last year. I did some research then and found the guy you are talking about. But he was too busy to "build" anymore. I kinda wanted to do the set-up myself, but he would not pass on his propriety (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) info. And they were way too expensive. My next thought was to get a 70 amp one that VW used on late 70's campers sent to the great white north. That also failed to develop an alternative. It seems there just were not very many campers sent to Canada.

But just last week a guy in Washington state found my WTB ad on TheSamba and sent me 2 pulleys with fans, pulled from 79 Canadian campers. IIRC this ALT does not use the elbow tube from the TIV cooling fan, so it needs a fan on the pulley. I also remember the need for a larger opening on the ALT front tin. It has been too long. I think I have some threads out there you could search by MALCOLM2.


I may look into it again, cause I am building a Bay Window bus that is gonna need an alternator.....

Yes, it does use a rubber boot from the fan shroud to the back of the Alt. It is different in that it's got a big round end to fit the big round inlet tube on the alt. Several VW places carry the special boot like Busdepot. I have one in my camper and tons of guys are searching for them as they are getting rare just like the fan pulley with the fan on it. Use the late bay Alt tin as it's got a bigger hole for em.

[malcolm2]

For stock I wonder if it's worth taking a chance on this one:

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting...66988_100967_0#

I remember originally buying one from AZ. THat picture looks correct. But the one I bought in 2012 had a wonky rear edge. The tin on the rear did not fit correctly and would not seal.

That one looks different, it might work. Get one and see if all the tin fits and the studs on the back don't touch..... Life Time Warranty is nice tho. But the labor to remove is hell.

I do remember Cap'n Crusty reeming me a new one tho.... RIP Cap'n

[GregAmy]

That one looks different, it might work. Get one and see if all the tin fits and the studs on the back don't touch..... Life Time Warranty is nice tho. But the labor to remove is hell.

Bingo. I just did one a few weeks ago, and hated myself for it. I'd much rather pay extra for a known-good-quality one and avoid having to do it again.

I sent mine to some old guy in New Hampshire that apparently knows what he's doing, and paid him $120 to rebuild it. I don't want to do that job again...

[dralf]

I am wondering if my Auto Zone unit is also on its' way out. Can anyone tell me how best to check its' performance without having to take it out and run it to Auto zone and tell me it is bad?

[IronHillRestorations]

For stock, you might try NAPA. My local store can get Bosch remanufactured which have a good warranty.

I have several rebuilt stock alternators that I got from a rebuilder that closed shop. I sell those for $80 plus shipping, outright. TBH though I wouldn't use anything but the Bosch reman.

I've got one oddball that I was told to be 90 amp VW, I'll get a pic

[Spoke]

I am wondering if my Auto Zone unit is also on its' way out. Can anyone tell me how best to check its' performance without having to take it out and run it to Auto zone and tell me it is bad?

Start the car and elevate the idle to about 2k RPM.

Measure:

Battery + to chassis - should be 14V

On the plug to the VR, measure:

V+ to chassis - should be 14V
VF to chassis - should be 3-6V
V- to chassis - should be 0.0V


Repeat the same measurements with the headlights on.

The battery voltage may be 13 to 14V during these tests.

[jim_hoyland]

I am wondering if my Auto Zone unit is also on its' way out. Can anyone tell me how best to check its' performance without having to take it out and run it to Auto zone and tell me it is bad?

Measure:

On the plug to the VR, measure:

V+ to chassis - should be 14V
VF to chassis - should be 3-6V
V- to chassis - should be 0.0V

Would you explain/show exactly how/where these measurements are made, I'd like to try this...I'm not familiar with all the connections outside the plug from the alt to the relay board

[Spoke]

I am wondering if my Auto Zone unit is also on its' way out. Can anyone tell me how best to check its' performance without having to take it out and run it to Auto zone and tell me it is bad?

Measure:

On the plug to the VR, measure:

V+ to chassis - should be 14V
VF to chassis - should be 3-6V
V- to chassis - should be 0.0V

Would you explain/show exactly how/where these measurements are made, I'd like to try this...I'm not familiar with all the connections outside the plug from the alt to the relay board

On the plug from the alternator to the VR on the relay board, the 3 wires can be seen looking into the plug. Measuring DC volts, put the positive DMM lead on one of the pins and the negative DMM lead on the chassis ground lug which can be found right behind the relay board.

[cary]

Left side engine tin, going to relay board.

[jim_hoyland]

Is the above test done with engine running; Any problem unplugging the alt harness if engines running ?

[Spoke]

Is the above test done with engine running; Any problem unplugging the alt harness if engines running ?

Yes, engine running at about 2k RPM. I would advise against unplugging the alt harness while the engine is running. If you want to change VRs, stop the engine, replace and restart.

[IronHillRestorations]

This is the oddball Bosch alternator I have

[mb911]

Could a 944 style unit be adapted?

[Bleyseng]

This is the oddball Bosch alternator I have

Thats the Canadian or Cold weather Baywindow 70amp alt. I have one in my Westy. To fit it in a 914 you just need the special boot from BusDepot so it hooks up to the fan. Came with the pulley that has a fan on it but those are around too.

[IronHillRestorations]

This is the oddball Bosch alternator I have

Thats the Canadian or Cold weather Baywindow 70amp alt. I have one in my Westy. To fit it in a 914 you just need the special boot from BusDepot so it hooks up to the fan. Came with the pulley that has a fan on it but those are around too.

Thanks for ID'ing that Geoff!