More Novice Help Please, Suspension, CV Joint and Front Suspension Disassembly Options

[Highland]

More amateur help please, this time with CV joint and front suspension:

1) I've only taken apart one axle, but I found some pitting on one of the outside bearing. Pictured is the worse example:



Can I address this by swapping the transmission end for the wheel end? I notice they ride in slightly different locations.

2) Having much trouble taking apart the front suspension.

a) Can I just use a fork to pry this off or do I need a puller/pusher device? I have neither so trying to avoid buying both. Soaking in PB Blaster now. Boot is already torn so a fork would do no damage, just looking for the easiest way.



b) According to the Haines Manual the bolt/pin shown is suppose to come out to release the ball joint (held in by a semi-circle feature?). Mine looks like it is permanently attached to the strut. How do I get it out?



3) When removing the control arms do the adjusters need to be wound loose? Can the cross support bar be left in place?

[Superhawk996]

1) You can but it is only a temporary solution at best. The problem is finding replacement CV joints. See other treads on this site for details.

2)
A. Do Not Pry. Ideal case is use a tie rod puller - actually pretty cheap to buy or often available to rent at AutoZone, PepBoys, NAPA, etc.

Alternative is to soak it in liquid wrench - wait for this to work to loosen any surface rust. Then use two hammers. One heavy hammer and a lighter ball peen hammer. Use the heavy one to hold steady behind the cast iron knuckle. Use the lighter one to whack the cast iron knuckle (several times). This will usually free the tie rod end from the knuckle.

B. There is a wedge shaped taper pin there. It needs to be soaked in liquid wrench. Then drive out with a soft faced hammer or brass drift to release the ball joint.

In either case A or B, a little heat helps but you have to be very careful not to melt or burn the rubber boots if you are planning to reuse them. Don't overheat the strut either - the cartridge has oil in it that will be degraded by high heat.

3) You can wind them loose but likely the torsion bar splines are corroded into the caps. More liquid wrench. More heat at ends being careful since bushings are rubber - no heat if you plan to reuse the A-arm bushings. Lots of wiggling back & forth, Lots of hammering with soft dead blow hammer. More swearing. Cross bar can be left in place.

Others may have more elegant methods but these have worked for me over the years.