SEALS - Different that orig, WAS: OIL: Flood, Leak and Seeps, Will they work ? |
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SEALS - Different that orig, WAS: OIL: Flood, Leak and Seeps, Will they work ? |
ctc911ctc |
May 20 2019, 03:16 PM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 892 Joined: 9-June 18 From: boston Member No.: 22,206 Region Association: North East States |
Please see the seal picture around post #9
All, I had all three, Floods, Leaks and Seeps. I fixed the Flood, yes the valve cover HAS to go on with the VW logo upside down! So on to the leaks. I am down to one leak, the oils is dripping off of the oil filter, a drop a minute or two while running. This leak is NOT coming from the top of the engine. Oil pressure sending unit, oil filler (OEL)and the distributor are all tight, no leaks. Took out the oil filter, let the car leak until it stopped dripping and got under the car. OK, I spent an hour under the car. Pretty certain that the car is leaking from ABOVE the oil filter mounting bracket. Top of the braket and the bottom part of the oil cooler are covered in oil. Sooooo, after reading everything about this within these pages I found that the oil filter bracket AND the oil cooler could be removed WITHOUT removing the engine. GREAT! So raised the car high, put it on jackstands AND 4x4 blocks (belt and suspenders) and slid underneath. took the first nut off the oil filter mount, then I went for the one on the back of the bracket. A - Easy Bracket nut B - Nut on top of bracket - seen through a mirror C - Oil Pressure regulator Access Port D - Above the Oil Cleaner bracket - covered with oil. As can be seen, the nut for the other half of the mount is overlapped by the oil cooler frame. THERE IS NO WAY TO GET A WRENCH ON THIS! Not sure what to do now, live with the leak until it is time to remove the engine? Ideas, suggestions, Many thanks in advance. BTW, the seeps are all from the pushrod tubes, only one looks really bad, not sure I would venture to pull the tubes with the engine in the car, though I know it can be done. |
Mark Henry |
May 21 2019, 08:38 AM
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#2
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
The PR seals you have to disconnect the shift rod, clutch cable, etc., then you can lower the front of the engine 3-4" onto a stand and it's do-able in car.
CV cover gaskets I glue on with trim adhesive to make them stay put when installing. On my builds I weld 4 extra tabs, two bottom and two top just like the two on the VC from the factory. On this job I'd just drop the complete engine, trans and exhaust as a unit, but I have the gear to do this easily. |
Dave_Darling |
May 22 2019, 12:37 PM
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#3
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,985 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The PR seals you have to disconnect the shift rod, clutch cable, etc., then you can lower the front of the engine 3-4" onto a stand and it's do-able in car. If you mean pushrod tube seals, no lowering of the engine is required. You simply pull the tubes halfway out of the head, which lets you change the seals on the end. Then you can push them back in again. --DD |
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