Think this flywheel can be cleaned up? |
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Think this flywheel can be cleaned up? |
Tdskip |
Jul 21 2019, 12:55 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,686 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None |
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Tdskip |
Jul 21 2019, 12:56 PM
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#2
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,686 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None |
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Tdskip |
Jul 21 2019, 12:56 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,686 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None |
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Tdskip |
Jul 21 2019, 12:57 PM
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#4
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,686 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None |
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porschetub |
Jul 21 2019, 03:32 PM
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#5
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,698 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
Looks to have done little work,minimal wear on the clutch plate fingers,plenty of meat on the clutch plate also.
This will all clean up well ,I would use it again,these parts are rather expensive in my country. Good luck. |
Tdskip |
Jul 21 2019, 05:50 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,686 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None |
Looks to have done little work,minimal wear on the clutch plate fingers,plenty of meat on the clutch plate also. This will all clean up well ,I would use it again,these parts are rather expensive in my country. Good luck. Greetings, happy Monday mate. Just wire brush the flywheel to get the surface corrosion off? Anything to do to the clutch disk? |
bbrock |
Jul 21 2019, 07:43 PM
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#7
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
My flywheel looked somewhat like yours when I pulled my partially rebuilt engine out of mothballs. I used 2" Scotch Brite conditioning pads on an air angle grinder and it polished right up. On thing I see that might be a concern on yours is the sealing surface on the flywheel hub. Hopefully that will polish up nice and smooth for a good seal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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IronHillRestorations |
Jul 21 2019, 10:01 PM
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#8
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,719 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
Looks like the flywheel just needs cleaning. If the fingers on the pressure plate have pitting, it would make it suspect.
I'd clean the flywheel up with a green 3M bristle disc and/or scotchbrite disc. The bristle aren't as agressive |
rhodyguy |
Jul 22 2019, 07:42 AM
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#9
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,080 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
Rust=Washington patina.
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UROpartsman |
Jul 22 2019, 10:07 AM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 291 Joined: 22-October 15 From: Simi Valley, CA Member No.: 19,288 Region Association: None |
Wouldn't touch the disc, it looks good and will clean itself up the first time you use it.
Could have the flywheel turned, wouldn't take much to clean the surface rust off the friction area. Any other rust removal is cosmetic, but if using Scotchbrite pads, use a VERY light touch where the pressure plate touches the flywheel, so the components remain flat and parallel. If you Scotchbrite the pressure plate where it contacts the disc, do it by hand (not rotary device) in long overlapping circular motions and try to keep the cleaning even, so you don't end up with high and low spots on the plate. Scotchbrite can remove more metal than people expect. |
Tdskip |
Jul 22 2019, 11:11 AM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,686 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None |
Thanks for all the responses and coaching.
Will follow that guidance and report back. |
bbrock |
Jul 22 2019, 12:57 PM
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#12
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Could have the flywheel turned, wouldn't take much to clean the surface rust off the friction area. Any other rust removal is cosmetic, but if using Scotchbrite pads, use a VERY light touch where the pressure plate touches the flywheel, so the components remain flat and parallel. If you Scotchbrite the pressure plate where it contacts the disc, do it by hand (not rotary device) in long overlapping circular motions and try to keep the cleaning even, so you don't end up with high and low spots on the plate. Scotchbrite can remove more metal than people expect. Good point and a good reminder that I should clarify what I used because "Scotch Brite" is like saying "sandpaper" since there is a huge range in aggressiveness and purpose. I used a very mild disc more intended for buffing/polishing. It just knocked the loose rust off but the chance of taking any measurable amount of metal off with that disc was pretty much nil. |
UROpartsman |
Jul 22 2019, 01:05 PM
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#13
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Member Group: Members Posts: 291 Joined: 22-October 15 From: Simi Valley, CA Member No.: 19,288 Region Association: None |
^ Exactly. A lot of machinists would probably freak out if someone used a Scotchbrite pad on the table of their mill, lol.
Using fresh water as a lubricant also helps when using a Scotchbrite pad, as it reduces buildup of material in the pad and makes it easy to rinse away removed debris (with a garden hose, etc). But on the pressure plate, it might not be worth getting water into the mechanism unless you have a good way to thoroughly dry the assembly quickly. |
porschetub |
Jul 22 2019, 01:42 PM
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#14
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,698 Joined: 25-July 15 From: New Zealand Member No.: 18,995 Region Association: None |
My flywheel looked somewhat like yours when I pulled my partially rebuilt engine out of mothballs. I used 2" Scotch Brite conditioning pads on an air angle grinder and it polished right up. On thing I see that might be a concern on yours is the sealing surface on the flywheel hub. Hopefully that will polish up nice and smooth for a good seal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) Good point I never noticed that,really should go in a lathe to be polished...if the rust isn't too bad otherwise the RMS will leak. |
Tdskip |
Jul 22 2019, 02:21 PM
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#15
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,686 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None |
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UROpartsman |
Jul 22 2019, 03:11 PM
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#16
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Member Group: Members Posts: 291 Joined: 22-October 15 From: Simi Valley, CA Member No.: 19,288 Region Association: None |
Deleted, see below posts.
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Tdskip |
Jul 22 2019, 03:12 PM
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#17
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,686 Joined: 1-December 17 From: soCal Member No.: 21,666 Region Association: None |
Just edited our post, there actually isn't any sealing surface on the flywheel. All the sealing at the rear main seal is between the case and the crankshaft, with the except of the flywheel o-ring that protects the pilot bearing. Thanks, which means the area in yellow isn’t an issue then? |
bbrock |
Jul 22 2019, 03:24 PM
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#18
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Just edited our post, there actually isn't any sealing surface on the flywheel. All the sealing at the rear main seal is between the case and the crankshaft, with the except of the flywheel o-ring that protects the pilot bearing. I don't think that's right. I'm pretty sure the crankshaft end fits inside the recess of the flywheel hub and seals with the o-ring. And the flywheel hub fits inside the RMS where the lip seals against the vertical shoulder above the yellow area circled. It's just that outer shoulder of the hub that is perpendicular to the area circled that needs to be polished. Hard to tell from the pic what condition it is in. |
UROpartsman |
Jul 22 2019, 03:42 PM
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#19
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Member Group: Members Posts: 291 Joined: 22-October 15 From: Simi Valley, CA Member No.: 19,288 Region Association: None |
(Edited after learning the RMS seals against the snout on the back of the flywheel.)
You could do the following: Mask the following areas: • Where the flywheel touches the crank (you can leave the pilot bearing because you'll replace it later) • The snout on the back of the flywheel where the rear main seal rides • Where the pressure plate mounts to the flywheel • The pressure plate where it touches the disc Media-blast the flywheel and pressure plate to remove the corrosion, then: • Remove the old pilot bearing • Have the flywheel turned (they will remove the same amount of material from where the pressure plate mounts as the friction surface, to maintain the spacing) • Have the machine shop polish the OD of the snout where the rear main seal rides (or if pitted, turn and sleeve it) • Carefully Scotchbrite the friction surface of the pressure plate Then: • Mask where the flywheel touches the crank and where the flywheel snout enters the rear main seal, and paint the back of the flywheel with a thin coat of black engine paint • Mask the pressure plate as needed to keep paint out of the assembly, and paint the back of the pressure plate housing Install a new pilot bearing, and your restored clutch and flywheel will be ready for installation. Or, if there's money in the budget and there's any concern, just do the flywheel and buy a new clutch assembly. That old clutch would probably work fine though. |
UROpartsman |
Jul 22 2019, 03:44 PM
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#20
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Member Group: Members Posts: 291 Joined: 22-October 15 From: Simi Valley, CA Member No.: 19,288 Region Association: None |
I don't think that's right. I'm pretty sure the crankshaft end fits inside the recess of the flywheel hub and seals with the o-ring. And the flywheel hub fits inside the RMS where the lip seals against the vertical shoulder above the yellow area circled. It's just that outer shoulder of the hub that is perpendicular to the area circled that needs to be polished. Hard to tell from the pic what condition it is in. Definitely worthy of finding out for sure, will do some more research. |
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