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> Newbie needs purchase advice, Purchase advise
Indyheel
post Aug 17 2019, 08:27 PM
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Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the 914 world and am looking at a '73. The car is from Colorado and was dry stored for 23 years. Car is relatively rust free with the exception of a small area by the drivers door sill. I've attached pics of the battery area. Would do you think?

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Porschef
post Aug 18 2019, 07:10 AM
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Welcome. Post lots of pics and introduce yourself, you’ll get more responses and folks will be better able to answer questions. Looks like Olympic blue, nice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Cairo94507
post Aug 18 2019, 07:27 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) What he said. Looks like you might have a good car there, being a '73, but impossible to tell from 1 pic. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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thelogo
post Aug 18 2019, 07:38 AM
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QUOTE(Indyheel @ Aug 17 2019, 07:27 PM) *

Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the 914 world and am looking at a '73. The car is from Colorado and was dry stored for 23 years. Car is relatively rust free with the exception of a small area by the drivers door sill. I've attached pics of the battery area. Would do you think?





Checking here 1st is smart
But if you dont know 914 s . then please dont buy the first one you see . i looked at a dozen before pulling the trigger . buy the best you can afford too or best one you can find

Trying to save $ by getting someone else's basket case may seem smart at first but its a bad move
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DickSteinkamp
post Aug 18 2019, 10:04 AM
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Looks like someone torched out the floor of the battery tray for some reason...probably rust. Replacements are available.

IMHO, rust is the biggest factor when evaluating a 914 (or any unibody car) for purchase. There are some that are geniuses here for finding and repairing rust on these cars, but it takes a rotisserie, removal of all paint and undercoating, exceptional MIG welding skills, and the ability to fabricate the replacement panels that aren't reproduced.

One of the biggest rust problems on these cars (and an indicator of rust in other areas) is the area under and in front of the battery tray....affectionally known as the "hell hole". The drain hole there gets plugged then water (and maybe some battery acid) accumulates there. Same is true on the driver's side of the car to a lesser extent.

It would be important to remove at least one rocker panel to examine the longitudinals.

Others can give more areas to look at for rust. Check them all. A little rust you can see means a lot of rust you can't see.

I hope you found a relatively rust free one.

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rjames
post Aug 18 2019, 10:06 AM
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The battery tray can easily be replaced. What does the rest of the car look like?

Also recommend bringing someone who knows those cars well to look at it in person.
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Indyheel
post Aug 18 2019, 10:12 AM
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Thanks for the feedback so far. Here is a pic of the door sill area. Due to the size of the files, I'm being limited to I pic at a time. The fenders and front trunk area look great with only minor surface rust. There is some rust inside the back of the rear trunk floor with a couple of tiny holes (not the drainage holes).

The car smokes from oil dripping on the exhaust and the 1st gear synchro grinds when down shifting unless I bring the car to a complete stop. Assuming a worst case total engine rebuild along with a tranny overhaul and new clutch, what $ am I looking at spending?

Any other watch outs for a car that has been sitting so long (wiring/rubber) that could be major expense?

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DickSteinkamp
post Aug 18 2019, 10:19 AM
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QUOTE(Indyheel @ Aug 18 2019, 09:12 AM) *

Thanks for the feedback so far. Here is a pic of the door sill area. Due to the size of the files, I'm being limited to I pic at a time.


Reduce the size of your pictures if you are posting them directly from your computer, or put them in an online photo album and link to them.
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bbrock
post Aug 18 2019, 10:20 AM
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A couple thoughts from the jamb/sill pic. That is the driver's side which usually rusts more slowly than the passenger side. If you are seeing rust there, I would be suspicious there is more on the other side that you can't see.

As was already mentioned, your really need to have a look under the rocker covers to inspect the jack points and longs before you can really know the condition of the structure. The rust you see at the sill may have started below in the longitudinal or jack point. Only way to know is to pull the rocker covers.

And... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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Indyheel
post Aug 18 2019, 10:23 AM
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Here is the underside of the drivers door sill. The other side actually looks pretty good.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t&id=708784
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rjames
post Aug 18 2019, 10:35 AM
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QUOTE(Indyheel @ Aug 18 2019, 09:23 AM) *

Here is the underside of the drivers door sill. The other side actually looks pretty good.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t&id=708784


Unless you know how to weld or really want to learn, I’d walk away from this car.
Rust aside, if it needs a transmission rebuild and engine rebuild, you’re looking at $7k+ unless you are doing the work yourself.

Look for a better starting point.
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JawjaPorsche
post Aug 18 2019, 10:43 AM
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There is a lot of rust you can’t see. I would check the rocker panels.
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Spoke
post Aug 18 2019, 11:36 AM
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QUOTE(Indyheel @ Aug 18 2019, 12:23 PM) *

Here is the underside of the drivers door sill. The other side actually looks pretty good.
://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t&id=708784


That metal looks gone. My guess is there's lots more rust underneath the rocker panels.

Having bought a piece of junk 914 close to me and another one hundreds of miles and 2 states away, and a 911 across the country, my advice would be to walk away from this car.

The best rust-free cars you'll find are where cars do not rust. Places like CA, NM, AZ, TX. Pool as much money as you can to buy the best 914 you can find somewhere in the country. Allot money for a plane ride and shipping back to your home if needed.

It's really tempting to buy a car right in front of you. One you can touch, sit in and drive. But if you'll be doing rust repairs for the next year, maybe one you can touch is not for you. Although if you like to weld and are good at it, a rusty 914 can be a nice project.

As I mentioned, my first 914 was purchased 5 miles from my house and was overpriced with lots of rust. My 2nd 914 was hundreds of miles away and had minimal rust. My 911 was purchased in Denver, CO. I flew to Denver, bought the car, and had it shipped back home to PA.

Take your time and find a nice 914 to build on. Look through the FS ads here. That's where I found my 2nd 914.

Good luck.
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Larmo63
post Aug 18 2019, 11:37 AM
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Walk away unless you have lots of patience and very good welding skills.
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Superhawk996
post Aug 18 2019, 11:56 AM
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poorsche914
post Aug 18 2019, 12:03 PM
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Perhaps more info and images will aid in guiding OP ... from the CL ad:

Great, rust free solid car. Recently tuned--New plugs, condenser, points. Fuel pump upgrade and new stainless lines to replace the old vinyl lines that could catch these on fire.
Purchased last year out of Colorado where is sat in dry storage for about 20 years. Last driven and tagged in 1996, but it runs great now with no smoke and a smooth idle.
Great project car to clean up the body or even keep in its original survivor patina. I have lots of parts from the previous owner including brakes, A/C, ignition parts, trim parts, new seat covers, fuel tank cleaner (not needed). The car is complete and just needs a little effort to get it into great shape.


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rjames
post Aug 18 2019, 12:06 PM
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Owner has had it less than a year and is now trying to recoup his losses because of the amount of work it needs.
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Superhawk996
post Aug 18 2019, 12:35 PM
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QUOTE(poorsche914 @ Aug 18 2019, 02:03 PM) *

Perhaps more info and images will aid in guiding OP ... from the CL ad:




Quick things I see in the photos:
1) interior is roached. Budget $2K at least to make this decent driver quality. If you want it pristine, you'll be in for more like $5K.

2) Door jamb rust on driver side is a bit unusual. If you can see that there is easily in that spot, there is 20X more hidden around the vehicle that isn't easily seen. Insist that owner pull the passenger side outer rocker panel before buying.

3) Trunk hinge on passenger side above battery has been broken and has been poorly welded as the quick repair.

4) the rusted battery tray surely dumped acid laden water and acid onto the engine bay longitudinal. Hell Hole needs to be checked way more closely. Haven't seen a picuture of it yet down in the low corner at the firewall where the rust happens.

5) 1st gear Syncro is no the end of the world but likely that isn't all the trans needs.

6) fuel injection lines have standard worm clamp on them. This is a fire waiting to happen. These lines need proper clamps that don't cut into and extrude the rubber though them.

7) luggage rack add on virtually guarantees that you now have corrosion starting on the trunk. At a bare minimum, you now have holes.

8) Car has had A/C installed. There are multiple holes cut into this vehicle that are sources of corrosion and leakage. I know, my car had A/C installed and I'm working to fix the damage. All A/C installed of the era involved pure butchery!

9) where did all the center console gauges go?

And that is what I see in a 30 second rundown. I'm sure there is way more.

Previous advise stands. Consider this a learning exercise in how to inspect and buy a 914. You've come to the right place for expert advice. The guys on the forum will help protect you from yourself. Don't fall in love with this one.

Unless you can weld and do all work yourself this is a money pit.

Love that color. My first car started the same color. And like a dope I painted it red in the 80's -- what was I thinking. Changing it to red cost me thousands in speeding tickets!
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DickSteinkamp
post Aug 18 2019, 01:30 PM
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I've seen worse.

After a careful inspection (especially the hell hole, jack points, and under the rocker covers), and a compression or leak down test, you'll have a good idea of what you would have. Then you can make a decision based on the price and your skills.

It does look fairly complete. New seat covers are included. A carpet kit is cheap. The body isn't so beat up that you couldn't live with the originality for a while (or for ever).

If the rust isn't terminal and if you can weld...and if the motor is in good shape, it could be a candidate. Keep in mind that you will have WAY more into any project car than you initially budget (don't ask me how I know). But if working on a car is entertainment for you, a project car is sort of a "time payment plan".

Keep after it. Continue with updates on the condition. Folks here will give you some idea of the value when more is known about the condition.

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Superhawk996
post Aug 18 2019, 01:34 PM
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QUOTE(DickSteinkamp @ Aug 18 2019, 03:30 PM) *

I've seen worse.



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

I own worse. Just wouldn't wish it on someone that didn't know what they were getting themselves into. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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