Newbie needs purchase advice, Purchase advise Options

[Indyheel]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. The color, appearance package, and the fact it is near me are what attracted me. Unfortunately, I don't have the time nor the skill to work on this myself. Am I looking at $20k to make this a #2 car?

[Superhawk996]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. The color, appearance package, and the fact it is near me are what attracted me. Unfortunately, I don't have the time nor the skill to work on this myself. Am I looking at $20k to make this a #2 car?

Short answer - YES even if you can do the work yourself. See my signature block for my build thread. Great looking car on surface but it is a money pit but I knew that going in. That is an important consideration - are you prepared for the worst case?

I just have a masochistic side for repairing broken stuff.

Don't get me wrong . . . we all want you to find a 914. Just find the best one you can afford. There really is no shortage of 914's so there will always be another one if this one isn't THE ONE.

[DickSteinkamp]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. The color, appearance package, and the fact it is near me are what attracted me. Unfortunately, I don't have the time nor the skill to work on this myself. Am I looking at $20k to make this a #2 car?

Here are the condition ratings generally used...

Classic Car Condition Ratings

If you can't or don't do the work yourself, it can easily cost $20k in parts and labor to get to a 4.

To get to a #2 using pros you should count on $50k or more.

If you can do most or all of the labor yourself (including body work and paint) maybe half those numbers with some luck.

The car you are looking at I would grade somewhere between a 5 and 6.

(My opinion...others may vary)

[Superhawk996]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. The color, appearance package, and the fact it is near me are what attracted me. Unfortunately, I don't have the time nor the skill to work on this myself. Am I looking at $20k to make this a #2 car?

Here are the condition ratings generally used...

Classic Car Condition Ratings

If you can't or don't do the work yourself, it can easily cost $20k in parts and labor to get to a 4.

To get to a #2 using pros you should count on $50k or more.

If you can do most or all of the labor yourself (including body work and paint) maybe half those numbers with some luck.

The car you are looking at I would grade somewhere between a 5 and 6.

(My opinion...others may vary)

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Well done!

[bbrock]

I agree with pretty much everything already said. This car looks like an excellent candidate for a DIY restoration project IF the owner will let it go for what it is worth, rather than what they THINK it is worth. Heck, if my car looked like that when I started my project, I'd already be driving it by now.

Given that you have neither the time or skills to do the work yourself, this is an easy decision. Walk away.

[burton73]

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Walk away unless you have lots of patience and very good welding skills.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) to what my Brothers said.

Do not get this car inless you want to spend huge money getting the body back in shape.

Bob B

[Tdskip]

But the seller says it is “rust free”. Dear Lord I loath sellers like that.

Welcome, and find a better car.

A virtual PPI here is, as others have said, the single best thing you can do to help end up with a good one.

Don’t be scare to ship a better car.

Keep us posted.

[thelogo]

Buying a car off the 914 classifed section here would be my first move

And least 99% of those guy will be honest about the car

[Indyheel]

A big "Thank you!" to all of you for all the great advice. I 'm going to walk away and keep looking.

[Superhawk996]

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You will find a better one.

[DickSteinkamp]

I think you can still get a good, driver quality 914 for $15K or so. Definitely a nice car for $20k. Maybe not one that will win shows, but one you could be proud of.

Here are the auction results for 113 on BaT...

914 auction results

BaT seems to be a pretty good barometer for P-car prices.

If you don't enjoy the project part of ownership, and/or don't have the skills to take on a project, buying one that someone has already sunk more into the car than they thought they would is a good idea. Even for those of us who like to wrench, the cheap way out is usually to buy a completed car.

[Rand]

please dont buy the first one you see . i looked at a dozen before pulling the trigger . buy the best you can afford too or best one you can find

Yes buy the best you can afford, but you also have to be smart. Saying the first one you see has nothing at all to do with it has nothing to do with finding the best one. It could have been! Just know where to look for the structural damage that cancer hits these with. Has nothing to do with how soon you saw it. It needs to be examined.

[PanelBilly]

And don’t be afraid to ask for someone to do an inspection on a car that is out of state. Most of us would gladly do this for you

[rjames]

I don't have the time nor the skill to work on this myself.

Keep in mind that these cars are old and require upkeep. If you don't have the time or skill to work on the car (including one in excellent shape), and you don't have extra money to pay a shop to do the work for you, a 914 may not be the car for you.

I would never recommend a 914 to someone unless they wanted the challenge of working on the car themselves or were prepared to (regularly) pay someone else to do so. Lots of shops won't even work on these cars, and the ones that do, often don't know what they're doing and you'll be paying them to learn.

Your experiences may vary, but just something to keep in mind.

Best of luck on your search!

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

an easy repair. The new tray can be spot welded to the existing stand

Hi Everyone,
I'm new to the 914 world and am looking at a '73. The car is from Colorado and was dry stored for 23 years. Car is relatively rust free with the exception of a small area by the drivers door sill. I've attached pics of the battery area. Would do you think?

[Rand]

an easy repair. The new tray can be spot welded to the existing stand

I'm really surprised to hear this from an expert. Not surprised to hear it from someone selling parts. If you have to replace the battery tray, the last thing you want to do is spot weld on a band aid. It means there is WAY more important work to look at below there.

[mepstein]

When the sill looks like this, it’s usually the tip of the iceberg.
It’s typically called surface rust by a seller and big $$$ repair from a shop.

Hint - it’s always a lot worse under the cosmetic aluminum threshold plate where the water wicks in and sits on the metal and the backside of the door that traps dirt that then holds moisture against the sill.

[Rand]

Shh, George could sell you a new sill plate. It will look pretty.

[rhodyguy]

$20k in fixes, new parts and upgrades will NOT get the job done. If you're married, your wife will hate that car in short order. An AC car is a pita to fix.

[sixnotfour]

youall this is the kill shot....... battery tray is fine..notice it has stainless side rockers