Axle angle Options

[euro911]

The stance (ride height) of your car looks fine. I'd look into the original thought of raising the transaxle up a couple inches.

[partwerks]

The stance (ride height) of your car looks fine. I'd look into the original thought of raising the transaxle up a couple inches.

The back is 1" lower than the front, and that was measuring to the bottom of the fender lip.

There is room above the trans, but the top/back part of the engine is close to the back of the engine bay, or where the front of the trunk area would be. I think I might have a bit more room to move the engine ahead, and then I would probably have more clearance to move everything up together.

I was told: It is a little low. Those are Bilstein and they seldom go bad. New springs may be in order.

[euro911]

This is what you need on the top of mount.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-194-1568081009_thumb.jpg)

Do I need the round one also, or just the rectangular one on top?

It's one piece.

I think I have some spare ones you can have ... let me look for them. They don't look as bright and shiny as that one though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)


Also, not sure how long your springs are, but someone posted a couple pairs of 10" in the classifieds recently (good price too $45./pr shipped) ... http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340742

[partwerks]

This is what you need on the top of mount.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-194-1568081009_thumb.jpg)

Do I need the round one also, or just the rectangular one on top?

It's one piece.

I think I have some spare ones you can have ... let me look for them. They don't look as bright and shiny as that one though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)


Also, not sure how long your springs are, but someone posted a couple pairs of 10" in the classifieds recently (good price too $45./pr shipped) ... http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340742

It looks like you are near the end of adjustment. New springs with around 180# may be required if the car is too low in the rear. The front torsion bars may have been adjusted to match the rear ride height. When you are finished, the front should never be higher than rear.

[partwerks]

This is what you need on the top of mount.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-194-1568081009_thumb.jpg)

Do I need the round one also, or just the rectangular one on top?

It's one piece.

I think I have some spare ones you can have ... let me look for them. They don't look as bright and shiny as that one though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)


Also, not sure how long your springs are, but someone posted a couple pairs of 10" in the classifieds recently (good price too $45./pr shipped) ... http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=340742

I'm not sure how heavy of springs I would need for an LS3 engine, but 265lbs sounds awful heavy. I just drive it on the street, not race.

Also, when replacing the springs, does that have anything to do with the alignment on the trailing arms?

[euro911]

Certain things need to be identified. Is it an aluminum or cast iron block? Difference is about 100 lbs right there. Regardless, a complete LS3 is probably almost double of a stock Type-4 motor. I believe most guys with V8 conversions install higher weight springs, but I'll let them chime in on that.

The height of coil over springs is the most important issue. You have the capability to adjust the height with the set-up you have on there now.

You shouldn't need to adjust the trailing arms, but you might want to check the toe and camber anyway - and have aligned as needed.

Let me know if you want the trans mount plates ... it will entice me to put some diligence into looking for them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[partwerks]

Got it on the hoist, for a few better pictures.

[euro911]

Can you shorten the upright sections of the trans mount to gain a couple inches of upward movement?

[partwerks]

Can you shorten the upright sections of the trans mount to gain a couple inches of upward movement?

Can't go any further forward, or up. Belt pulley is close, and so is the top/back part of that black, whatever it's called, is about 3/8" from the back part of the engine bay.
I think Renegade used the LS6 he says in the video. 400 horse. Maybe I need to go down to a six instead of this 8 for more room??


Renegade Hybrids told me:
Unfortunately the adaptation and everything is completely different from the 5 speed to the 6 speed. The 6 speed transmission can be adapted to the LS3 but requires a completely new setup.
Everything that mounts the LS engine into the chassis should remain the same its just that adaptation to the transmission that needs to change, the transmission mounting, axles, ect.

[partwerks]

Can you shorten the upright sections of the trans mount to gain a couple inches of upward movement?

Are you saying to cut the flat bars loose on top of the main bracket, and jack the trans up higher, and then reweld the flat bars?

[Mike Bellis]

Based on what I see, you have a compound angle like I had. With my Boxster tranny my axle stubbs would "walk" out after 150 miles. The car would have no forward or reverse motion until the stub was hammered back into the tranny.

The stubs are held in with a $1 circlip (Porsche Dealer). They did not have enough tension to hold back against the tug from the suspension movement. You can try an O ring, thin one under the circlip.

In my case I realigned the the drivertrain to shift everything forward until it aligned straight but remained lowered. No more problems.

Not sure which Boxster tranny you have or if your stubs are held in the same. Unbolt the CV and see if there is a big bolt head under it. If not, yours are held in by the same circlip.

[partwerks]

Based on what I see, you have a compound angle like I had. With my Boxster tranny my axle stubbs would "walk" out after 150 miles. The car would have no forward or reverse motion until the stub was hammered back into the tranny.

The stubs are held in with a $1 circlip (Porsche Dealer). They did not have enough tension to hold back against the tug from the suspension movement. You can try an O ring, thin one under the circlip.

In my case I realigned the the drivertrain to shift everything forward until it aligned straight but remained lowered. No more problems.

Not sure which Boxster tranny you have or if your stubs are held in the same. Unbolt the CV and see if there is a big bolt head under it. If not, yours are held in by the same circlip.

I have the 5 speed Boxster trans.

He had the custom axles and parts made at driveshaftshop.com

[Mike Bellis]

Drive it a few hundred miles and check to see if the stub is working its way out.

[euro911]

Can you shorten the upright sections of the trans mount to gain a couple inches of upward movement

Are you saying to cut the flat bars loose on top of the main bracket, and jack the trans up higher, and then reweld the flat bars?

In looking at how high the transaxle already sits in the bracket, it appears that it may not be possible to section it. You'll need to take the stock upper washer plates into consideration too - (I think they're approx 1/2" thick). If those rubber mounts crack and fail and you don't have those plates in place, your transaxle could fall.

I'm also wondering if a different rubber mount could be fabricated, and located UNDER the 'flat bars' (instead of above)? ... looks like you could gain an inch or so there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

If you're planning on raising the rear suspension (as you mentioned earlier) with taller springs, you'll gain even more equality between the center-line of the trans output shafts and the center-line at the wheel hubs. That should straighten out the axle angles enough to cause a lot less wear & tear on the CVs.

[partwerks]

Can you shorten the upright sections of the trans mount to gain a couple inches of upward movement

Are you saying to cut the flat bars loose on top of the main bracket, and jack the trans up higher, and then reweld the flat bars?

In looking at how high the transaxle already sits in the bracket, it appears that it may not be possible to section it. You'll need to take the stock upper washer plates into consideration too - (I think they're approx 1/2" thick). If those rubber mounts crack and fail and you don't have those plates in place, your transaxle could fall.

I'm also wondering if a different rubber mount could be fabricated, and located UNDER the 'flat bars' (instead of above)? ... looks like you could gain an inch or so there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

If you're planning on raising the rear suspension (as you mentioned earlier) with taller springs, you'll gain even more equality between the center-line of the trans output shafts and the center-line at the wheel hubs. That should straighten out the axle angles enough to cause a lot less wear & tear on the CVs.

Not sure how heavy of springs are in there, but wonder how heavy I need for the LS3 engine, 180lb?
Sounds like 180lb are shorter than stock?
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...ed-details.html

I have the mounting plates on top now.

I'm not sure how I could move the trans forward any?

[euro911]

Not sure how heavy of springs are in there, but wonder how heavy I need for the LS3 engine, 180lb? ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ... Definitely a question for the V8 guys.

Sounds like 180lb are shorter than stock? https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-914...ed-details.html ... I believe so. That's why I suggested measuring your existing springs.

I have the mounting plates on top now ... Good.

I'm not sure how I could move the trans forward any? ... Sorry, can't help you there.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[ClayPerrine]

Can you shorten the upright sections of the trans mount to gain a couple inches of upward movement?

Are you saying to cut the flat bars loose on top of the main bracket, and jack the trans up higher, and then reweld the flat bars?

I would be worried about the cantilevered nature of that bracket. Hanging out on the end of that flat bar is a recipe for metal fatigue and eventual failure. It is absorbing all of the torque of the engine in one direction, then the engine braking in the other direction, and the load of the rear of the tranny bouncing up and down. Eventually they are going to break due to metal fatigue. I spent a lot of time discussing this very subject with Aaron (my machinist at Zims). We ended up making a mount that wraps around the back of the transmission and triangulates with two side mount points.

Here's a picture of my 914 with a Cayman 6 speed G86-21 trans.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-1143-1565317056.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-1143-1565317066.jpg)

You can see how it was built to prevent the flex in the mount. And I am less that 1/2 from the chassis transmission crossmember.

Just my $.02.

[euro911]

Wow, well thought-out design, Clay.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

[jimkelly]

enjoyed your pics. thanks.