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> shifter talk. many shifting problems these days, you've done everything else...
post Oct 9 2019, 11:09 AM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.

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in the linkage, EXCEPT.

all may not agree, just my take. I'll start with the bad one. the detent plate and springs work the same way early or late. you can see how badly deformed and worn the detent TS model is. the lever wear at the contact point is minimal on this one. I've seen the lever and plate wear much worse. It takes a lot of pressure to roll the edge of the plate. No good. The wear issue shortens the effective working length. add springs loaded with heavy grease and grit and your fighting compression effectiveness as well. you shouldn't have to reef on the lever with all your might to engage 1st or reverse and still snick or grind. add in the garbage ball cup bushing and there are a bunch of issues. When buying a shifter I would ask for a picture showing the plate edge and the contact point of the lever.

the better one. look how straight and clean the detent plate is. wear on the lever is not there either. Pelican offered new plates but not sure if they still do. they seemed spendy but still cheaper than ruining your gear box and you will prob never have to replace it again. Note the small sleeve in the yoke bolt hole. That needs to be in place and serviceable as well.

for shifter removal the TS lifts away. Don't forget the rod bushing in the carrier just aft of the assem during your renew. For the SS version, I would disconnect the yoke from the lever on the front end of the forward rod (one bolt). Put the trans in 2nd gear. Unbolt the assem and turn it 90*. This allows access to the bolt. this method preserves your current settings and you don't waste time trying to find the old placement. I have a REALLY worn shifter assem in the shed. I'll dig it out later.

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