Questions for the Collective |
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Questions for the Collective |
bkrantz |
Oct 12 2019, 09:49 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,766 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I would appreciate some answers and other feedback--don't be shy.
A month ago I brought home a 1973 2 liter. The car came with a COA that shows the engine and trans as original, as is the color. It has all the original performance/appearance parts, including 5 good Fuchs wheels. It was not running when I bought it, but did run earlier in the year. My initial assessment showed some minor rust and body issues, but it looked solid. Now after a month of stripping down, I have found more rust, mostly in the floor. The areas under both seats are either very thin or with some small holes, and both front floor corners have 4 inch holes. The upper fire wall behind the passenger seat has rusted through, as has the right engine shelf. The top of the hell hole has extreme scale, but no holes (until I really dug in with my chisel). And I found a couple of small holes in the inner fender where the battery tray (replaced) attaches. On the plus side, the longs are very solid and clean, inner and outer, on both sides, as is the lower fire wall where all the cable fittings attach. Other body issues: the front and rear right fenders were replaced at some time, as was the right side of the front panel (but the floor and inner right fender are original). The groove for the front trunk gasket is messed up in places, but not rusty. The rear trunk and engine lid hinge mounts are messed up. The windshield was glued and sealed with at least 4 different kinds of stuff. All the bright trim, and the bumpers, were painted black--and the front bumper looks repaired under the paint. And the black carries over with undercoat sprayed in the engine compartment, both trunks, and passenger area. Inside, the seats were recovered--not stock but look pretty good. The dash and firewall cover look good. The door cards are uncut, but somebody cut speakers into the sides of the center console. One final observation: the more I take things apart, the more ghetto repairs I find, with non-stock, mixed hardware, home-made brackets and wiring, and cheats. First question: should I continue with my plan to restore to a nice running but not 100% vintage state? I kept looking for a place to stop as things came apart, but in my quest to remove all the sketchy stuff I am approaching a bare shell. Second question: is this car worth the effort to replace the floor, patch the other rust, and straighten various bends and mis-fits? I know I will end up with a complete paint job, and replacing most of the rubber and trim. And none of this even considers the drive train. Final question: if I end up with the body shell stripped bare, what's the logical approach and order of work, considering the floor, local patching around the hell hole and fire wall, and work on the front and rear? Attached thumbnail(s) |
mepstein |
Oct 13 2019, 06:18 AM
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#2
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914-6 GT in waiting Group: Members Posts: 19,272 Joined: 19-September 09 From: Landenberg, PA/Wilmington, DE Member No.: 10,825 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Some of the best looking cars are bondo queens under the paint. So at least you know what you have. If you have the skill and patience, work the repairs, one at a time, until you have a solid chassis but remember, perfection is the enemy of good. These cars are great drivers so don't get so caught up that you don't get it back on the road and have some fun.
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iankarr |
Oct 13 2019, 05:59 PM
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#3
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The wrencher formerly known as Cuddy_K Group: Members Posts: 2,473 Joined: 22-May 15 From: Heber City, UT Member No.: 18,749 Region Association: Intermountain Region |
perfection is the enemy of good. These cars are great drivers so don't get so caught up that you don't get it back on the road and have some fun. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) The more concours/perfect you want the car to be, the longer and more expensive the restoration. It's easy to slide down the slippery slope of perfection, so what I like to do is set either time or money deadlines (or both). Then work backwards to keep the car on track and on budget. If you don't do that, you'll be saying "might as well" a whole lot...and the car is just about guaranteed to stay off the road indefinitely. And when it does get back on the road, you'll either be reluctant to drive it...ot love driving it so much that it quickly won't be "perfect" anymore. As for what to do first, I'd remove the glass and tackle the structural and body to prep for paint. Then while the car is in paint, work on the engine. When the car comes back from paint, install the wire harness, steering components, airbox and controls, fuel tank and lines, front and rear suspension, wheels and brakes. Then put the engine in (or if you have room, keep it out till the very end.). Then do the interior, starting with the dash top (which requires the glass to be out). Put the glass in when the interior is complete, then connect everything up and drive. No big deal...you'll have it done in a weekend (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif). As others have said, you seem to have all the raw materials, and by the questions you're asking, this doesn't seem to be your first rodeo. Definitely go for it! |
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