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> Rebuiding Inside-out
bkrantz
post Jul 28 2020, 09:11 PM
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Laid out for tomorrow.


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djway
post Jul 28 2020, 11:29 PM
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Wolfsburg West has the dual male insulated connectors. Something like $3.50 each.
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bkrantz
post Jul 29 2020, 09:10 PM
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QUOTE(djway @ Jul 28 2020, 11:29 PM) *

Wolfsburg West has the dual male insulated connectors. Something like $3.50 each.


Thanks!
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bkrantz
post Jul 29 2020, 09:12 PM
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More careful diagnosis of the main harness today. A few problem spots have extra wires spliced in, sometimes soldered...


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bkrantz
post Jul 29 2020, 09:13 PM
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Sometimes crimped.


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bkrantz
post Jul 29 2020, 09:13 PM
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Other places are missing connectors on the ends of wires.


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bkrantz
post Jul 29 2020, 09:14 PM
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And the mouse damage continues.


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raynekat
post Jul 29 2020, 09:41 PM
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Isn't electrical harness stuff fun?
Hate it, but it's always there.
Previous hack jobs where people have no idea what they are doing.....

I always use the non-insulated spades like what Belmetric carries:
https://www.belmetric.com/noninsulated-spades-c-19_164_200/

Plus some shrink sleeve to make it as "factory like" as possible.
Many times I don't have the exact color/stripe wire, so that's my compromise.

Good luck with this part of the job.
I'm currently going through the front trunk of the 911 correcting a lot of the same kind of nonsense.
Incorrect spades, connectors, etc.
I was fortunate on my 71 914 project to be able to purchase an NOS chassis wiring harness.
It was so much better than what was in the car.
There were a couple of mistakes in the harness that did need correcting still.
Hard to believe with an NOS harness, but Hans must have had one too many at the Haufbrau Haus the night before he built mine. Ha

And that looks like a great crimper you've got there.
I have a similar one.
They are indispensable when doing this kind of work.
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bkrantz
post Jul 30 2020, 07:49 PM
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Might be fun (or maybe what my PhD advisor called "sick fun"). I am still feeling optimistic--we'll see how long that lasts.
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bkrantz
post Jul 30 2020, 07:51 PM
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I stopped by the body shop today, and caught them shifting cars around. They had my 914 outside but all wrapped up. Should have gone into the paint booth after lunch and will be in primer by tomorrow.


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76-914
post Jul 30 2020, 08:21 PM
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QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 28 2020, 08:03 PM) *

So that got me motivated to organize all my electrical tools and supplies. The trusty soldering iron.

That damp sponge at hand tells me your no novice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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djway
post Jul 31 2020, 12:06 AM
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I order connectors at Digi Key in bulk and 100ft rolls of shrink tube. 2 to 1 shrink. I also use marine 3 to 1 when I need some heft around the area. It is amazing how quick you go through supplies doing a complete harness.
I used old hacked wire harness' for color matching wire.
One thing I learned is when a wire has been hacked near the terminus add extra wire and don't put the connector on until in the car. Guessed too short a couple of times....
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bkrantz
post Jul 31 2020, 08:13 PM
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Thanks, guys. I learned about soldering from my late FIL, who was a EE and ran his own component fabrication company.

And great tip about leaving new wires long until assembly.
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bkrantz
post Jul 31 2020, 08:16 PM
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More harness work today, still mostly in cleaning and inspection mode. The undercoat spray comes off quickly with GoofOff. It also takes off red paint overspray, but only after LOTS of rubbing.


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bkrantz
post Jul 31 2020, 08:17 PM
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Of course, as I clean wires I find more issues, ranging from tiny nicks in the insulation to more significant holes.


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bkrantz
post Jul 31 2020, 08:26 PM
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While sorting through the interior parts I rediscovered the hand written number under the dash. This does not match the car VIN, and the blue overspray does not match the original Bahia Red.


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djway
post Aug 1 2020, 12:25 AM
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QUOTE(bkrantz @ Jul 31 2020, 07:17 PM) *

Of course, as I clean wires I find more issues, ranging from tiny nicks in the insulation to more significant holes.

You can use Plasti Dip on those small nicks
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Cairo94507
post Aug 1 2020, 03:26 AM
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That is the chassis number (not to be confused with he VIN) and that number should be stamped into the rear trunk floor of your car. Additionally, the dash frames rarely match the actual color of the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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bkrantz
post Aug 1 2020, 07:55 PM
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QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Aug 1 2020, 03:26 AM) *

That is the chassis number (not to be confused with he VIN) and that number should be stamped into the rear trunk floor of your car. Additionally, the dash frames rarely match the actual color of the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


Thanks for the clarification. The original trunk floor was rusted away where the number was, so I have no record of that. It does make more sense that this was the original dash front.
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bkrantz
post Aug 1 2020, 08:00 PM
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My left replacement strut arrived from 914 Werke. A perfect replacement for the original strut that had mangled internal threads. Now I have all the parts ready for the powder coat shop next week.


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