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> 1973 2.0
nomedulla
post Oct 21 2019, 09:02 PM
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nomedulla
post Oct 21 2019, 09:04 PM
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nomedulla
post Oct 21 2019, 09:34 PM
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All of the photos beyond this post are what the car looked like prior to removal of the interior when I decided I wanted to do a full restoration...all of the photos prior these are the current state of the car.
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nditiz1
post Oct 22 2019, 06:26 AM
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So which pictures are the current ones? The first ones you posted match the issues in the ad. The second set look like a driver ready car.

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nomedulla
post Oct 22 2019, 07:05 AM
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QUOTE(nditiz1 @ Oct 22 2019, 08:26 AM) *

So which pictures are the current ones? The first ones you posted match the issues in the ad. The second set look like a driver ready car.


The second pictures match the ad as well.... that is what the car looked like before I took it apart to begin a full restoration.
No gimmicks or deception, bad posted before good... good posted to show what she looks like fully rigged and the overall condition of the interior prior to removal.
Thanks for the inquiry. My apologies for not being clear with regards to the photos posted.
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nomedulla
post Nov 11 2019, 12:08 AM
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If I added an additional 2.0 short block (GA code completely disassembled) with some 2.0 stainless steel heat exchangers, $6500 for everything, would that get this out of my garage?
Is it the rust that is scaring everyone from buying this?
Is it having to put back together what I have disassembled?
Somebody help me understand?
I am willing to answer any questions.
Simply do not have time with the kid's activities and all the other projects...and the real inconvenience of a job, I have.
I thought this year and model was "The One" that everyone wants... or is it everyone is just as broke as I am and has the dream of making it a concourse winner one day, but not the $$$?
I never envisioned concourse, just wanted to have a piece of the past that would bring a smile, to me and those who saw it, as it rolled down the road.
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Craigers17
post Nov 11 2019, 04:28 AM
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QUOTE(nomedulla @ Nov 11 2019, 01:08 AM) *

If I added an additional 2.0 short block (GA code completely disassembled) with some 2.0 stainless steel heat exchangers, $6500 for everything, would that get this out of my garage?
Is it the rust that is scaring everyone from buying this?
Is it having to put back together what I have disassembled?
Somebody help me understand?
I am willing to answer any questions.
Simply do not have time with the kid's activities and all the other projects...and the real inconvenience of a job, I have.
I thought this year and model was "The One" that everyone wants... or is it everyone is just as broke as I am and has the dream of making it a concourse winner one day, but not the $$$?
I never envisioned concourse, just wanted to have a piece of the past that would bring a smile, to me and those who saw it, as it rolled down the road.



Per your request, here's my 2 cents:

First, the pros of your car are 1973, 2.0, good compression numbers, and O.G. fuel injection. Nice looking car with nice interior.

The problem is, in my opinion, partially logistics. Probably 2/3rds of the people on this site live on the PAC coast. Look on the Craigslists of cities like L.A., Portland, etc., and you'll see that these guys can pick up nearly rust-free , running 914's for $4500-$8500 and drive them home. Simply put, why would they pay $5700 plus roughly $1500-$2K to ship it cross country....especially given the amount of rust on the vehicle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

As far as rust goes, I think you hit the nail on the head. That's some pretty substantial rust in the long/door sill area. Who knows that amount of corrosion inside the longs?

If it was an awesome running car, and had this amount of rust, you might get your asking price, but then you get into the "...and then something went wrong " story, so it's no longer driveable even for those closer to you. If you really think it's something minor, and can't fix it yourself, I'd have a reputable shop look at it and fix it. You might be able to spend a few hundred $$$, in order to retain more of your asking price.

Finally, and I mean no disrespect, but the FIRMNESS of your asking price probably isn't doing you any favors. People enjoy negotiation. Just say'n. All in all, it's a nice looking car.....I think just more work involved than most people want to do, or have the skills set to do. GLWT!
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nomedulla
post Nov 11 2019, 11:00 AM
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Thank You kindly for your .02.
Great insight and no offense taken.
I guess I will hang on for however long the post stays, and if someone purchases it, they will know what they are getting into.
If not, I will be as everyone else and get around to it sooner or later (most likely later), or repost again when a divorce is nearing.

Thanks again!
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mepstein
post Nov 11 2019, 11:05 AM
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The right price cures everything.
Good luck with the sale.
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gereed75
post Nov 11 2019, 12:00 PM
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Not sure where you are in SWFL, but I know a shop in Ft Myers that is competent and very reasonable and could probably get this car running. That would help big time
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nomedulla
post Nov 11 2019, 06:55 PM
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Given your seasoned knowledge, what would you believe to be the right price were this your car, and you were selling it?
I am asking for its value as it sits and is presented in the ad.
Thanks!
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nomedulla
post Nov 11 2019, 06:57 PM
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QUOTE(gereed75 @ Nov 11 2019, 01:00 PM) *

Not sure where you are in SWFL, but I know a shop in Ft Myers that is competent and very reasonable and could probably get this car running. That would help big time

I appreciate the recommendation of a shop, however, the mechanical ability is not my concern... it is time.
Thanks!
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mepstein
post Nov 11 2019, 07:35 PM
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Currently it’s a parts car due to the large amount of rust. Yes it can be restored but it’s $30K + in metalwork, bodywork, paint, mechanicals and assembly at a shop. I would say about $2-2,500 as it sits.

I just parted out a 914 over the weekend that was in similar shape to yours. Most people who saw it couldn’t believe I was parting it out because it looked fine from 10 feet away. When I pulled the seatbelts from the longs (by hand) and could see the ground from inside the car, it explained a lot. We had to be careful jacking up the car because I didn’t want it to fold up with one of us underneath it. There’s a 99% chance that the entire bottom of your car is toast. Suspension consoles, floor pan, lower engine bulkhead, pedal box, rear trunk and the longs are completely shot. Many of these parts actually rust from the inside out, so by the time you see rust on the lower door sill, everything beneath it is gone.

This is your ad so if you want me to delete what I wrote, no problem. It’s just my opinion.


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nomedulla
post Nov 12 2019, 04:11 PM
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Thank You for your input.
No need to delete, I want someone who is green when it comes to a 914 to be knowledgeable before they consider buying.
Honesty, a lost trait.
I have reviewed the car and posted what I observed is needed throughout the car. I do not believe it to be as severe as your reference.
Based upon what it has, I just might have to part it out at some point and make more towards the asking price.
Otherwise, it can sit in the dry SFLA climate controlled garage until I have to turn in my license because I am to old to drive it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif)
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