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> '73 914 2.0....what to do first?, New to a project like this...where to start?
AKFish
post Nov 11 2019, 05:39 PM
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HI there, my name is Dominic and I have an avid reader of this forum for nearly a year, now its time to get rolling on my project...

About this time last year, I purchased a 1973 914 2.0. The previous owners bought it as part of a bundle of 914's and only kept a couple.
I have some documentation from when the car was first purchased, but the more recent owners have proven elusive. It was owned by a member here named "kurbfrog" but he/she has not responded to my contact attempts, so recent history is a bit murky. Sounds like the guy I really want to talk to, headed south of the border in a bit of a hurry.
I acquired the car in a partially disassembled state. The engine, a 2.0 with it's original FI still attached, is out and pretty much everything is removed from the engine bay and the interior. Many of the removed parts are carefully bagged up and some even have labels. On the whole, the car is in pretty solid condition, however, there are some of the typical rust issues.....
The engine shelf has been cut for A/C and there is rust in the hell hole and I can see rust developing in the outer long (I think that's what it is called). My reading here would suggest that there is a lot more than meets the eye.
What I would really like to do is find out if the engine runs...and if so, just put the car back together and drive it for a while. I could decide after that, if a "rustoration" is right for me...I have zero background in fabrication/welding.

Question: What are the MUST DO items to perform on the engine while it is out, to give me the best odds of getting the car going again?

P.S. My car came with this 1975 Roller that is pretty well gutted.Attached Image
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AKFish
post Nov 11 2019, 05:43 PM
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The engine as I received it...

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AKFish
post Nov 11 2019, 05:44 PM
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The bad...

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AKFish
post Nov 11 2019, 05:46 PM
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Outer long?

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AKFish
post Nov 11 2019, 05:47 PM
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Cut out for A/C...

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AKFish
post Nov 11 2019, 05:58 PM
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This 1975 came as part of the package...its been hit on the drivers rear quarter behind the door and pretty well gutted. Remarkably, there is no rust in the hell hole...Attached Image
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AKFish
post Nov 11 2019, 06:05 PM
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I included the VIN in the data base, but here it is again.

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SteveL
post Nov 11 2019, 06:41 PM
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Step one is to identify all rust and repair. Hell hole and longs are absolutely critical.
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AKFish
post Nov 11 2019, 07:24 PM
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QUOTE(SteveL @ Nov 11 2019, 07:41 PM) *

Step one is to identify all rust and repair. Hell hole and longs are absolutely critical.


Oh boy...ok. 1. Buy welder. 2. Learn how to weld

Does that sound about right?
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barefoot
post Nov 11 2019, 07:47 PM
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QUOTE(AKFish @ Nov 11 2019, 06:39 PM) *

HI there, my name is Dominic and I have an avid reader of this forum for nearly a year, now its time to get rolling on my project..

Question: What are the MUST DO items to perform on the engine while it is out, to give me the best odds of getting the car going again?

First see if the engine will turn over. you can use a screwdriver thru the access hole by the flywheel to slowly turn the flywheel, if it turns, then set up a battery and do a compression test, or better yet buy a cheap leakdown tester and check leakdown rates.
If that passes, you can run the engine just setting on wood blocking by jurry rigging fuel supply (easier with carbs)

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AKFish
post Nov 11 2019, 08:14 PM
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QUOTE(barefoot @ Nov 11 2019, 08:47 PM) *

QUOTE(AKFish @ Nov 11 2019, 06:39 PM) *

HI there, my name is Dominic and I have an avid reader of this forum for nearly a year, now its time to get rolling on my project..

Question: What are the MUST DO items to perform on the engine while it is out, to give me the best odds of getting the car going again?

First see if the engine will turn over. you can use a screwdriver thru the access hole by the flywheel to slowly turn the flywheel, if it turns, then set up a battery and do a compression test, or better yet buy a cheap leakdown tester and check leakdown rates.
If that passes, you can run the engine just setting on wood blocking by jurry rigging fuel supply (easier with carbs)

Attached Image


I removed spark plugs and turned the engine over by hand, replaced plugs and I can still turn over but with the resistance of compression. No audible scraping or crunching...oil appears to be new.

Can the D-Jet FI be run with the engine out? Thanks very much.
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914_7T3
post Nov 12 2019, 12:20 AM
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Nice Project!

Several members including myself are currently in the process of working on 1973 2.0 Cars so feel free to reach out should you need any info.

@bbrock can help you with welding & rustoration tips

@Superhawk996 really knows his engine builds

My specialty is parts sourcing

Many members will provide you with all the info that you need.


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jcd914
post Nov 12 2019, 12:29 AM
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You can run the engine outside the car.
It is easiest if you use an engine compartment relay panel and plug the engine harness and FI harness into the panel.
There are a few wires that normally come from the vehicle harness that will need to be hooked up to the relay panel to provide power. You will also need to wire the starter and fuel pump as well as provide a fuel source for the pump and a place for the fuel return to go.
It takes some figuring out but is not too bad.

I set mine up with jack stands under the engine crossbar and the tail of the transmission.
I also used a spare relay panel I had around and mounted it to a simple stand.
Fuel supply and return were just a 2 gallon fuel jug with fuel hoses stuffed in it.
I did move the fuel jug several feet away from the engine to keep fumes away.

Jim
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Tdskip
post Nov 12 2019, 10:49 AM
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Good morning and welcome.

In addition to what the others have said-as strong as suggest you get a build plan together that includes the goal of how you’re going to use the car and what level of investment you are willing to make. Like any project car a 914 will consume all available money if you don’t have a clear and focus idea what you’re trying to do.

Part of that should be a realistic assessment of what you want to and can do yourself versus when you may want to get professional help. Doing as much as possible obviously will help control costs, not to mention give you proud of ownership when it’s done, but you need to budget time and make sure you’re giving yourself the leeway of having to develop skills on jobs you haven’t done before.

None of the above is designed to put you off on the project – far from it, I’ve just found the above to be very helpful in making sure her projects get done.

As you are already finding out the people here are fantastic and very willing to help. Thanks as you are already finding out the people here are fantastic and very willing to help.
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sfrenck
post Nov 12 2019, 11:22 AM
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Consider buying a roller if you don't want to learn how to weld - that's what I ended up doing and I saved a lot of headache (and ended up with a rust free shell from California).
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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Nov 12 2019, 12:04 PM
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very little rust in your car, and all of the repair parts are readily available. While the engine is out leak it down check the compression adjust the valves and replace the pushrod tube seals as well as the front and rear main seals and check the clutch
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bbrock
post Nov 12 2019, 12:21 PM
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Nice Car! Right year. Right engine. And right color! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

I think the first step should be making sure the chassis is still safe enough to drive before thinking about putting the engine back in. That means making sure your rear suspension points are still solid and there isn't any flex in the body. I'd go after the rusty spots on the longs with a screwdriver like I was trying to murder it to make sure you still have solid metal there. Somewhere there is a procedure for testing for flex but I couldn't find it. If it checks out solid enough, might as well drive and enjoy it. Warning: to drive it is to want it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

Honestly, what you've shown so far doesn't look to bad to me. Don't get me wrong, repairing just what we know is rotted is going to be a big project and there are probably more surprises inside, but it's doable. Fixing the engine shelf where the AC was is pretty easy. Restoration Design makes nice engine shelf replacements. Worst part will be fixing the rot under the battery because that will be a fabrication job. And, of course, whatever surprises are waiting for you inside.
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Superhawk996
post Nov 12 2019, 12:30 PM
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QUOTE(bbrock @ Nov 12 2019, 01:21 PM) *


Honestly, what you've shown so far doesn't look to bad to me.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

@bbrock

Go look at Brent's project page. If you had started with what Brent started with, of course nothing looks bad. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

His build thread highlights the power of determination and pride in workmanship. No reason your project can't be the next.

Just dig in. Once you get started the path becomes clear. Life will happen along the way, there will be detours. Just keep at it one small project at a time.
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Rand
post Nov 12 2019, 12:33 PM
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Don't put money into drivetrain unless you want to transfer it. This carcass isn't worthy.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...t&id=718812
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Superhawk996
post Nov 12 2019, 12:36 PM
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QUOTE(AKFish @ Nov 11 2019, 09:14 PM) *



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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/drooley.gif) Very nice looking engine and transmission! Well done!
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