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> Another rustoration project…1972 914-6 Conversion
9146C
post Dec 6 2019, 02:38 PM
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I’ve owned this car for over 17 years now. Bought her in Sept 2002 in Canton, Ohio. First projects were to replace the brakes and shifter…brakes were almost non-existent and trying to find a gear with the original shifter was like a game of chance! I’ve tried to block out the memory of the hideous plastic whale tail on the rear lid and the ridiculous front air dam that were added prior to my purchase…both were removed the day I got the car home! Added a “cheap” five lug conversion on all four corners and the after-market Fuchs and drove it on sunny Sundays for about 5 years with the original fuel injected 1.7L. During that time, I also moved from Ohio down to Northeast Louisiana (November 2003 I drove her 800 miles down from Cincinnati to Monroe, LA.).
I’d always wanted a 914-6 so I started collecting all the parts I needed for my conversion. In 2004, I bought a “bagged”, but running 2.7L on eBay for $1500 (the best part was that it had a new set of Weber carbs).
Between 2007 and 2009 I was working/living in Europe. In 2009 I set back on getting the car running…then a job transfer to South Carolina…car up on a trailer and moved to a new garage!
In 2010 I transferred jobs again back to South Louisiana. In 2012, I decided to start working on my project car again. Started building a 2.7L from scratch (LN Engineering Niko cylinders, forged 9-1/2:1 pistons, Pauter rods, dual plug heads, custom grind cams from Dougherty Racing Cams).
With the new six, and living in the “deep south”, I also added the external oil cooler conversion with thermostat.
Went over the transmission, replaced synchros and reverse and first gears and added a side shift conversion at that time as well.
While the motor was out, completed the SS fuel line conversion/replacement as well.
Also completed a proper 5 lug front and rear conversion with Porsche 911 parts and added 140# springs in the rear for the heavier six.
The front hood had some rust on the underside supports and the rear lid had cancer from where a previous owner had mounted the whale tail (and subsequent mounting holes). I added the QRS fiberglass replacement deck lids in 2013 as well.
The car was finally back on the road again in 2013…and what a blast to drive!!!
One thing that was always missing for me was the “GT Look”…I’d always admired the wide body 914!
Well, this is the Winter that I start that project!
I wasn’t sure what I would find in terms of rust as I started to tear my car down…guessing by the glue on the back pad and carpeting, I’m guessing the car has never been disassembled!
I was pleasantly surprised as I started my teardown…especially considering the car started its life in Ohio!
When I installed the external oil cooler along the passenger side 6 years ago, I knew that a previous owner had installed what looks like a Brad Mayeur stiffening kit on the passenger side (but, not on the driver’s side???).
I didn’t take any really good pictures when I did the engine swap 6 years ago, but, couldn’t recall any major issues when I installed it.
I am expecting the inner long on the passenger side to be in bad shape. There is a little bit of rust around the passenger seat belt mount area (in fact, I couldn’t remove the seat belt mounting bolt as it was just turning in the frame…had to pry it out). At least part of the inside (passenger compartment) long will have to be replaced.
The outer firewall and floor pan are in great shape (with the exception of the surface rust on the bottom side of the pan).
The right rear jacking post/plate has some rust and will need to be replaced. The inner firewall has some corrosion near the center tunnel on the passenger side. I’ve ordered both lower inner panel replacements.
The passenger side motor mount and suspension console looks to be in great shape. The right side engine tray has never been replaced…I still need to clean up the “hell hole” area to see what lurks beneath, but, it really doesn’t look that bad. When I installed the oil cooler transfer lines 6 years ago, I recall drilling through metal, not fiberglass.
The driver’s side inner rocker has a very small crack just ahead of the jacking post…I’ll replace this inner long part as well.
The rear trunk has surface rust, but, no holes. Lots of bondo from a previous owner on the lower rear cross panel…I’m assuming the car had minor rear end collision damage in a past life…nothing really ugly from underneath. The underside of the rear trunk is actually in really good shape considering these cars were never undercoated.
The original bumpers were painted black…I installed the chrome bumpers while I was still living in Ohio.
The front half of the car is in great shape…no issues in the trunk area (I installed the oil cooler here 6 years ago), no issues inside the fenders, nor the headlight buckets.
The front cowl/windshield support is also in great shape.
Yeah, some of the pictures look funny…the car’s original paint code is L 97 H (Gold Metalic)…a previous owner went with white…I’ll likely keep it white.
I’ve built my rotisserie, but, for now, I’m not planning to use it for the replacement of the structural longs (and the rear cross panel)…it’ll help when I do some media blasting after the structural work is done.
Overall, I’m pretty pleased with what I’ve found (or haven’t found!) so far.
Replacement panels have been ordered from Restoration Design as well as the inner long stiffening kit and GT rear suspension stiffening kit from Maddog Motor Sports. I’ve been sitting on the reproduction GT Flares from AA for about 3 months now as well as the 16” (7” & 8”) polished reproduction Fuchs from Maxilite Wheels.
Overall, I’m pleased with the starting point of my latest project!


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mb911
post Dec 6 2019, 03:10 PM
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Cool project..

Please note those heat exchangers have proven to not produce much heat.. Ask @coondog and many others..

I admire your persistence with this project.
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TravisNeff
post Dec 6 2019, 03:14 PM
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Smart thinking with the door braces and going right to the rotisserie. If I had known what kind of extra work I was going to have to do, I would have done the rotisserie right off the bat. Live and learn..
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burton73
post Dec 6 2019, 03:51 PM
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Looks like the right long was reworked at some time. Ck the bottom of pan with an awl. With the pan, the way it looks it may be thin there and you would want to address that.

Looks pretty good IMHO. There are guys here that will joke with you as leaving the color GOLD. They like them, but it is always best to repaint in the original color.

I painted my 6 in original yellow and I am sorry I did not paint it blue.

Welcome to the world.

Bob B


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mepstein
post Dec 6 2019, 03:54 PM
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The PO welded the reinforcement on the right side because that's the side that rusts first.

Good luck with your project.

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9146C
post Dec 6 2019, 04:13 PM
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Thanks for the kind words and encouragement!

I'm still thinking about the Brad Mayeur reinforcement...I'm assuming that's what's currently installed on the pax side. I will remove it and do a proper repair on the inner and outer long (clam shell).

The car as I drove it, did not have any flex...both doors opened and closed smoothly/freely. I'm wondering if I should re-install a Brad Mayeur kit after I fix the longs for additional "firmness"??? I actually like how it bolts into the rear suspension...must be some undocumented benefit from that.

I've already purchased the inner long strengthening kit.

I'm not likely to be swayed by the "purists" about the final color...the car is so far removed from when it left the factory, the subject of "originality" seems like a moot point for a tribute build...at least for me.

Thanks again!
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Cairo94507
post Dec 6 2019, 04:50 PM
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Looks like a nice car to begin with and I say paint it the color you want. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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9146C
post Dec 14 2019, 03:49 PM
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Today, I pulled out the gas tank and the external oil lines (PITA job!).

With the oil lines removed I could get some better pictures inside the fenders...the right front looks really good from the fender well side.

Upon closer inspection, it looks like there was a previous patch completed in the hell hole area...all metal on the inside, but, visible rust inside the right rear fender after the oil lines/thermostat were removed.

Pleased by what I don't see on the fender well side of the door jam area!

This week, I hope to get the previous longitudinal repair (Brad Mayeur kit) removed to see what lies beneath.

All my new body panels should be delivered next week as well (including panels to complete longitudinal repairs).

So far, so good...


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Superhawk996
post Dec 14 2019, 06:09 PM
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Glad to see one from the midwest being saved before the tin worms completely devour it from the inside out. Even when you can't see them, they are still at work!

Overall looks pretty decent but, dang, these things just consume themselves.

Dig in and get it done!

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9146C
post Dec 16 2019, 12:21 PM
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Tin worms found!!!

Already had the two clam shells for the longitudinal repair on order from Restoration Design...looks like I'll have some additional repair on the inner wheel house as well.


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9146C
post Dec 17 2019, 09:33 AM
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Santa arrived early today...replacement panels from Restoration Design, re-inforcement panels from Maddog Motor Sports and front anti-sway bar from Tarrett.

Yesterday, placed a second order with RD for the wheelhouse piece as well as the rear half floor pan (if required).

Now the fun begins!


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Cairo94507
post Dec 17 2019, 11:12 AM
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Yikes! That long is definitely toast. Glad to see the new parts- that is going to be sweet when done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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9146C
post Dec 17 2019, 12:37 PM
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QUOTE(Cairo94507 @ Dec 17 2019, 11:12 AM) *

Yikes! That long is definitely toast. Glad to see the new parts- that is going to be sweet when done. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


I was a little surprised by the amount of rust I found in the passenger long...considering how little rust I had found up to that point.

Thanks!
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9146C
post Dec 19 2019, 01:36 PM
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Removed the inner rocker panel...you have to wonder if Karmen used any rust inhibitor when these cars were assembled.

The passenger long is also in pretty bad shape.

It'll be interesting when I pull off the driver's side inner rocker panel.

The right inner engine long looks to be in pretty good shape and the outer mating piece (on order) is pretty solid metal ahead of the suspension console (thankfully).

The picture I took last week inside the rear fender well (hole) ran directly into the longitudinal...good thing this car has been indoors in the years I've owned it...and fair weather driven only...suspect the long would've been a lot worse with rain water intrusion.

I'll likely have to remove a section of the rear fender/quarter panel and revisit the previous repair on the hell hole area/hole I found last week, but, thankfully it's not as bad as I was expecting.


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dr914@autoatlanta.com
post Dec 19 2019, 02:17 PM
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keep up the good work saving that 914! I had actually designed the 914 rocker clam shells years ago to go over the rusted parts just to get a rusty 914 a few more years of use. Later people were using them to strengthen the chassis. However to use for this purpose it is still necessary to install the chassis stiffening kit, and to know that when you clamshell, the prep on the clamshelled piece needs to be very thorough as not to trap rust. Finally there is some fitting required of the rocker panel cover and the sill plate as now the metal in this area is thicker.
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9146C
post Dec 19 2019, 02:29 PM
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Thanks for the feedback George!

Thanks, Rob
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9146C
post Dec 30 2019, 03:19 PM
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Well, Christmas is over and time to get back to work...

As I was starting to remove the passenger long, I came across a previous patch for what must have been pretty serious cancer 20 years ago...small metal patches brazed in place to cover the holes going through the passenger long and conveniently covered with tar!!!

I cut out the rust today and removed the cancerous section(s). I chickened out a little...originally, I was planning to splice in a complete section of the replacement longitudinal...not having a frame rack made me re-think that approach...I kept the upper portion of the long for additional support while I repair this section.

Good thing I had already ordered the short rear pan section...pin-holing in the area around the area of the hell hole. I will be replacing at least the rear passenger section of the floor pan.

Also removed the inner firewall on the passenger side...the outer firewall from the inside is in very good condition!

(Hopefully this surprise doesn't await me when I remove the inner long on the driver's side!)


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9146C
post Jan 16 2020, 02:35 PM
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Making a little progress...

Got the replacement passenger longitudinal and right rear inner firewall panels welded in and added the Maddogs Motorsport Chassis Stiffening kit.

Measurements unchanged...thankfully!!!


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mbseto
post Jan 17 2020, 12:13 PM
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Distinct improvement!
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9146C
post Jan 31 2020, 02:10 PM
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Hell hole repairs underway. Still need to finish up some welding and clean up the spot welds (not the prettiest repair yet, but it will be durable!), but, the worst looks to be done.

The section of the inner (engine bay) longitudinal has been spliced into place and the section of double wall on the backside (engine side) has been replaced/completed. Fortunately, I was able to save a part of the inner double wall to help this repair of the inner long piece. (Tough decision to either remove the consoles and replace more metal with the replacement panels, or splice in a smaller section, as I eventually choose.)

For added piece of mind, I added a "bridge piece" to secure the spliced inner longitudinal section onto both sides as well as the bottom, inner double wall overlaps the joint between the passenger longitudinal and the inner, curved longitudinal on both ends.

Right now, the double wall on the engine bay side is tack welded in place to the existing double wall...completing this repair will be much easier on the rotisserie.


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