123ignition users, blue tooth curve settings Options

[Str1974]

Hey guys, so I've now installed my new 123ignition w/ Bluetooth (it took me a while to get the whole TDC correct ...my fan did not have any markings due to being previously painted ). So, now I have searched for various tuning options that there are out there for the curve files. My intake manifold has two vac hose outlets that were hooked up to my dizzy... so I have plugged both outlets and am going the no vac route.

I've tried various curve files and have liked the "idle control/gear shift retard setting", as well the "no-vac manifold -pressure curve straight line at zero". But, I am not sure if those are the best selections out there. I need some real world experienced advice regarding what are the best for a L-jet 1.8 L engine (1974).

Currently I'm running Rev Limit 8000;
RPM Degrees crankshaft
500 5.0
1600 5.0
2600 21.0
8000 21.0

MAP curve starts @ 1500 rpm
Abs. pressure(kP) Deg crankshaft
0.0 0.0
100 0.0
200 0.0

Anyone running similar? Better options???

[michael7810]

You still should see the cooling fan timing marks thru the paint as they are lines cut into the fan. However that is not critical when using the 123 as long as you set the timing to TDC at idle without any advance from the 123. You could accomplish this with your current curve by setting timing at TDC on the flywheel mark using a timing light advance function set at 5 degrees while idling. AFTER you have the “static” timing at TDC you will want more advance than you currently have. Here is a good starting point:
0-500 RPM 0 degrees crankshaft
1000 RPM 10 degrees crankshaft
3000 RPM 28 degrees crankshaft
Keep the MAP settings at 0 degrees
Set your REV limiter to 5600 RPM (assuming stock-ish engine)

Then check your total advance at 3200 RPM to ensure it is at 28 degrees using a timing light.

Set the idle around 900 RPM
Your car should run well at these settings
Any further tuning would require a dyno and someone with experience tuning air cooled engines.

I’m not familiar with the “idle control/gear shift retard” setting

[HansJan]

I was never able to figure out where I was, using a strobe light.
However with the 1-2-3 distributor, using the little LED indicator got me close enough to TDC to make it work great. Being able to adjust the curve with your phone, makes this less important anyway.

[Str1974]

You still should see the cooling fan timing marks thru the paint as they are lines cut into the fan. However that is not critical when using the 123 as long as you set the timing to TDC at idle without any advance from the 123. You could accomplish this with your current curve by setting timing at TDC on the flywheel mark using a timing light advance function set at 5 degrees while idling. AFTER you have the “static” timing at TDC you will want more advance than you currently have. Here is a good starting point:
0-500 RPM 0 degrees crankshaft
1000 RPM 10 degrees crankshaft
3000 RPM 28 degrees crankshaft
Keep the MAP settings at 0 degrees
Set your REV limiter to 5600 RPM (assuming stock-ish engine)

Then check your total advance at 3200 RPM to ensure it is at 28 degrees using a timing light.

Set the idle around 900 RPM
Your car should run well at these settings
Any further tuning would require a dyno and someone with experience tuning air cooled engines.

I’m not familiar with the “idle control/gear shift retard” setting

Great, thanks for the tips

[Gatornapper]

Str - thanks for starting this thread - gives me the perfect place to ask about setting up a 123 dizzy if I get one this week which I'm likely to do.

Looking for advice on which curve/settings to use on a stock '76 2.0 with dual Weber IDF-44's........

keep in mind that on a '76 2.0 the only mark on the impeller is the red 27 deg. BTDC one......tho I can easily mark both TDC and 7.5 deg. BTDC from this:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-...-1565184944.jpg

TIA,

GN