Door stay kit Options

[Bartlett 914]

I happened to glance at the door stay on my Nissan yesterday and noticed they used a split roll pin instead of a clevis. Made me wonder if that might not be a good solution to compensating for wear and variation in hole size.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

In this case no. The pin needs to roll either in the car attachment or the stay itself. The problem happens because the clevis wears in time because of this movement

[ctc911ctc]

All,

I bought this kit for both doors and installed the rollers and the arms in both doors.

As to the PINS,

The pins I have are oversized and fit into the two holes on the driver's side door nice and snug.

On the passenger side, they will not fit because the passenger door did not get the use that the driver's side received....logical.

However, the new pins are too large for the new arms.

So the old pin is the right size for the hole in the arm, but there is clicking in the driver's door. The passenger's door works ok, but the door had so little use (and as result wear) there was little difference after the hardware change.

After reading this thread I will keep the passenger side with the original pin and the driver's side I will open the hole on the arm a bit so I am super snug on the driver's side.

SUGGESTION: I believe that the door could use a bit more snap in the 1/2 open and full-open position. Perhaps the cam lobes on the arms could be cut a bit more severe?

Has anyone ever considered this modification?

Thank You

CTC911CTC

[Mikey914]

All,

I bought this kit for both doors and installed the rollers and the arms in both doors.

As to the PINS,

The pins I have are oversized and fit into the two holes on the driver's side door nice and snug.

On the passenger side, they will not fit because the passenger door did not get the use that the driver's side received....logical.

However, the new pins are too large for the new arms.

So the old pin is the right size for the hole in the arm, but there is clicking in the driver's door. The passenger's door works ok, but the door had so little use (and as result wear) there was little difference after the hardware change.

After reading this thread I will keep the passenger side with the original pin and the driver's side I will open the hole on the arm a bit so I am super snug on the driver's side.

SUGGESTION: I believe that the door could use a bit more snap in the 1/2 open and full-open position. Perhaps the cam lobes on the arms could be cut a bit more severe?

Has anyone ever considered this modification?

Thank You

CTC911CTC

I had cur the arms to match the factory curves.so unless these is a demand for a new curve I will probably leave that alone.

Mark

[oldschool]

I've been hoping to get the repair kit.......SOON. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[bbrock]

@Mikey914

Here's how I tamed the click and a suggestion for making these kits nearly universal for only a few extra pennies.

My chassis stay brackets were not wallowed and I had no interest in reaming them out - especially with fresh paint on the car. Instead, I picked up some 1/4" O.D. aluminum bushings at the local ACE and JB Welded them into the arm bore.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20845-1579104259_thumb.jpg)

Then I drilled the bushing out to 15/64" (~6mm) and filed it flush to the arm. In hind sight, it would have been better to bore the arm out to 3/8" and using a matching O.D. bushing to leave more "meat" behind after drilling it out.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20845-1579104558_thumb.jpg)

I couldn't source OEM size 6x16mm clevis pins locally but substituted 6mm tension pins like I proposed earlier. I actually think tension pins are an improvement over the clevis pins because they don't rotate in the bracket bore. All of the wear should occur on the arm bore and keep the chassis brackets from wallowing out. They are a bit of a pain to install but once they are in, I get smooth, click-free action from the door stays. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

There is more detail on this process here on my build thread.

Here's what I think could make these stay kits more user friendly. Bore the arms out to 3/8" and supply two sets of pre-drilled bushings so users can install OEM or overbore as needed for their car. Also include two sets of pins (clevis, tension, or both) to match the bore sizes. With 3/8" O.D. bushings, there should be no need to epoxy the bushings into place as there would be enough wall thickness left to just pop them into the bore. It might even be an improvement by creating a double bearing surface for wear.

Those are my thoughts anyway.

[Mikey914]

Our current game plan is to go back to stock hole size. The parts will be just like OEM. Then you can buy a slightly oversized pin or a stock sized pin. The stock woill fit nicely into the stock arm. If you have a problem with the mount being oversized and clicking. You can use the oversize pin and drill the arm to match, But until we run out we will have the oversized arms. 2 different kits.

[bbrock]

Our current game plan is to go back to stock hole size. The parts will be just like OEM. Then you can buy a slightly oversized pin or a stock sized pin. The stock woill fit nicely into the stock arm. If you have a problem with the mount being oversized and clicking. You can use the oversize pin and drill the arm to match, But until we run out we will have the oversized arms. 2 different kits.

I like it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[jfort]

glad to see this thread. my kit is somewhere, never installed, because of the pin fit issue. I guess I'll try filing

[bbrock]

glad to see this thread. my kit is somewhere, never installed, because of the pin fit issue. I guess I'll try filing

Filing alone won't get a good result. You need the holes of the brackets on the chassis to match the hole in the stay arm with a pin that fits snugly in all three. Otherwise, you wind up with play in the mechanism that causes loud and annoying clicks when you open and close the doors. If you want a quiet mechanism, you need to either file the oversized pins down and bush the arm to reduce the bore size or ream the bracket holes out to match the oversized pins. Reducing the arm bore is not hard or expensive to do. I think the aluminum bushings I used cost 23 cents each retail.

[914lover17]

Our current game plan is to go back to stock hole size. The parts will be just like OEM. Then you can buy a slightly oversized pin or a stock sized pin. The stock woill fit nicely into the stock arm. If you have a problem with the mount being oversized and clicking. You can use the oversize pin and drill the arm to match, But until we run out we will have the oversized arms. 2 different kits.

What size pins are in the current kit?

https://914rubber.com/door-stay-rebuild-kit-for-porsche-2021

[Front yard mechanic]

Just use bailing wire and end the bitching (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif)