Turbo Tie Rod Install, some pictures and thoughts Options

[anderssj]

I finally got around to installing the turbo tie rods I purchased from Pelican almost 4 years ago (!). I thought I should share some pictures from the install in hopes they might help somebody do the same job in the future (standard disclaimers apply--"your mileage may vary," etc.)

A couple of things up front:

First, this upgrade is well worth doing. It made my car's steering much more precise, bringing it back to better-than-new levels.

Second, earlier threads here in the garage were extremely helpful, especially GWN7's from back 2006: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=56323&hl=
Thanks to all who have shared their thoughts and pictures in this and other related threads!

Third, those who have done this job without a lift, using only jack stands, etc., are amazing. Here's to you! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I was lucky to have a lift, otherwise I'd still be under the car.

The kit I bought from Pelican included two Lemforder tie-rod assemblies and a pair of boots. I also bought a pair of tie rod washers ("spacers"). All parts seem very well made. I also bought one of the custom-made tie rod wrenches during a group buy here on the world (more on that later).

As far as general procedures, I followed the steps in GWN7's thread (as I said, very helpful). I did the right/passenger side first, so as to avoid working around the brake master cylinder until I was up on the learning curve a little.

And now for the work itself:

This may seem obvious, but first I disconnected the battery. Leaving the key in the on position let me "steer" the rack from left to right to improve access, and didn't want to risk hurting anything in the ignition. I also used a brush and compressed air to get rid of any crap that could fall into/onto the rack. Then, after removing the front wheel I used a tie rod separator (and a BFH) to remove the outer tie rod:



The tie rod separator is also referred to as a "pickle fork"... The only odd thing I found here was that the nut on the right side was a Nyloc-type, not the castle nut/cotter pin I expected. Not sure who did that or when--but it was in keeping with some of the other odd stuff I found when replacing the clutch last month.

With the tie rod hanging down, I pushed the outer end of the old boot back (towards the center of the car) and off the retainer. Left the spring on the boot for safe keeping. I used the "group buy wrench" to loosen the boot retainer.



Another view...



The wrench fit the boot retainer well and made loosening it easy. Observation: I think retaining the boot is only one function of this piece--given that the boot retainer is threaded and tightened to 51ft-lb (per Haynes, page 99), I think it also serves as a "jam nut" for the tie rod eye bolt. Too bad it wouldn't fit inside the new boot, or I'd have been tempted to reuse it instead of the new spacer.

[anderssj]

And this is where the trouble began...

The next step was to remove the eye bolt from the end of the rack. On-line videos showed people simply spinning it out of the rack--no such luck in this case. It was TIGHT. I used a couple of penetrants (PBlaster, etc.); I finally had to use a big set of locking pliers to remove the eyebolt. Lack of space (watch out for that brake pipe!) really limited the tool's swing. I spent over an hour on this. Lesson learned--have a small pipe wrench on hand for next time.



There had been some question on whether the new spacers were required to keep the turbo tie rods from bottoming out in the rack, so I decide to measure the depth of the hole using a tire tread gauge.



On my car, the hole in the end of the rack is over an inch deep (35/32"). That's a couple of mm deeper than the length of the stud on the end of the new tie rod (without the spacer):



It doesn't look like bottoming out would be a problem, so the spacer must be there to keep the inner end of the turbo tie rod from hitting the end of the rack housing when the steering is at full lock.

Next, slide the inner boot spring towards the center of the car and onto the rack housing, then remove the old boot taking care not to drop any crap onto the rack.


Sorry this pic is from the left side of the car--but you get the idea.

I used a little brake cleaner on a Q-tip to clean out the hole in the end of the rack, put a little thread locker on the threaded end of the new tie rod and screwed it up snug. Then I used the Group Buy wrench to tighten it up:



Haynes (page 99) lists the tightening torque for the eyebolt as 34 ft-lb, so that's what I was shooting for. About the time I thought I was close, I could feel the end of the wrench start to open up... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)



I was really being pretty careful, so I don't think it was a "Bullwinkle" ("Don't know my own strength") moment.



I used the channel lock pliers to make sure the new tie rod was tight.

Lesson learned (again)--have a small pipe wrench on hand for next time.

OK, wifey.gov just asked to go for a ride in the 914, so there will be a short interruption...