Turbo Tie Rod Install, some pictures and thoughts Options

[anderssj]

I finally got around to installing the turbo tie rods I purchased from Pelican almost 4 years ago (!). I thought I should share some pictures from the install in hopes they might help somebody do the same job in the future (standard disclaimers apply--"your mileage may vary," etc.)

A couple of things up front:

First, this upgrade is well worth doing. It made my car's steering much more precise, bringing it back to better-than-new levels.

Second, earlier threads here in the garage were extremely helpful, especially GWN7's from back 2006: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=56323&hl=
Thanks to all who have shared their thoughts and pictures in this and other related threads!

Third, those who have done this job without a lift, using only jack stands, etc., are amazing. Here's to you! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) I was lucky to have a lift, otherwise I'd still be under the car.

The kit I bought from Pelican included two Lemforder tie-rod assemblies and a pair of boots. I also bought a pair of tie rod washers ("spacers"). All parts seem very well made. I also bought one of the custom-made tie rod wrenches during a group buy here on the world (more on that later).

As far as general procedures, I followed the steps in GWN7's thread (as I said, very helpful). I did the right/passenger side first, so as to avoid working around the brake master cylinder until I was up on the learning curve a little.

And now for the work itself:

This may seem obvious, but first I disconnected the battery. Leaving the key in the on position let me "steer" the rack from left to right to improve access, and didn't want to risk hurting anything in the ignition. I also used a brush and compressed air to get rid of any crap that could fall into/onto the rack. Then, after removing the front wheel I used a tie rod separator (and a BFH) to remove the outer tie rod:



The tie rod separator is also referred to as a "pickle fork"... The only odd thing I found here was that the nut on the right side was a Nyloc-type, not the castle nut/cotter pin I expected. Not sure who did that or when--but it was in keeping with some of the other odd stuff I found when replacing the clutch last month.

With the tie rod hanging down, I pushed the outer end of the old boot back (towards the center of the car) and off the retainer. Left the spring on the boot for safe keeping. I used the "group buy wrench" to loosen the boot retainer.



Another view...



The wrench fit the boot retainer well and made loosening it easy. Observation: I think retaining the boot is only one function of this piece--given that the boot retainer is threaded and tightened to 51ft-lb (per Haynes, page 99), I think it also serves as a "jam nut" for the tie rod eye bolt. Too bad it wouldn't fit inside the new boot, or I'd have been tempted to reuse it instead of the new spacer.

[anderssj]

OK, on the driver's side things went much better. The outer tie rod end was secured with the proper castle nut and cotter pin, and the yoke/eye bolt came out easily once the boot retainer was loosened (the group buy wrench still worked well for that). Most important, I remembered to bring in a small (10-inch) pipe wrench to tighten the new turbo tie rod to the rack. No slipping, and fit well in the available work space.



Once the old driver side tie rod was off, installing the new one was the same drill as on the passenger side:

Clean the hole in the end of the rack with brake cleaner,

Put the boot on the new tie rod and adjust it to the length of the old tie rod,

Put a little thread locker on the stud and screw it in,

Use the pipe wrench to tighten it to ~ 43 ft-lbs.

Put some glycerin on the outer surface of the rack housing and the inner lip of the boot, and push/twist the boot into place

Pull/"walk" the boot retaining spring back into place, twisting the boot as necessary for access.



Put some glycerin on the rubber collar/disc on the tie rod and the outer lip of the boot, and push/twist the boot into place. Make sure the collar/disc isn't displaced; if it is, gently pull it back into place if you need to.



FWIW, this particular kit came without any small boot retainer springs for securing the outer end of the boots to the collars/discs. I used "zip ties" (as shown in this earlier pic) until I find something better.



Lower the car, tighten the nut on the outer tie rod ball joint to 33 ft-lbs (again, use a jack and block to put upward pressure on the joint to keep the stud from turning)



Reinstall the wheel and tighten lug bolts to 108 ft-lbs.

Here's what it looks like when finished:



FWIW, it's always a good idea to go back through all the steps and mentally check my work...don't want any loose nuts/bolts.

Also, while the splash pan is off the car, take a flashlight and check the brake master cylinder for dampness/leaks. You may want to take a look into the access hole under the fuel tank too--you might see your next repair: replacing the swollen fuel lines/hoses under the gas tank (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I think that's about it. Feel free to ask questions, or add your observations/BTDTs, etc.

Hope this helps!