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Costa05 |
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#41
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 320 Joined: 27-October 16 From: Phoenix, Arizona Member No.: 20,535 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I used the rotisserie to lower the car on to the four jack points and then checked with a laser level to ensure everything was level (see laser near bottom of long in the picture). Door gaps were not far off, and adjusted nicely with the door braces. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1585861475.1.jpg) You are brave. Be careful if you lean up against your car with any weight in your hands!! Yikes. |
sreyemj |
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#42
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 12-January 20 From: SA, TX Member No.: 23,821 Region Association: None ![]() |
You are brave. Be careful if you lean up against your car with any weight in your hands!! Yikes. It's still supported by the rotisserie, the blocks are there to keep it flat. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1585975042.1.jpg) |
sreyemj |
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#43
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 12-January 20 From: SA, TX Member No.: 23,821 Region Association: None ![]() |
Finally opened up the longitudinal. I tacked some plugs on the inside long to help stiffen it before I cut into the outside. Rust actually doesn't seem that bad compared to some that I've seen.
I also found some mouse droppings so it may be that the insulation was part of a mouse nest. The duct tape was probably the PO's attempt to clean up the mouse nest. Hopefully the heater tube is usable, replacements look expensive. The plugs: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1585976103.1.jpg) Outer: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1585976104.2.jpg) Inner: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1585976104.3.jpg) Prior owner's duct tape and some mouse droppings: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1585976104.4.jpg) |
bbrock |
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#44
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Unfortunately, that heater hose isn't the original. The original is a fat, insulated hose that clips into place. It looks like the PO replaced with cheap heater hose and then packed the long with insulation to make up for it. I"m shocked you don't have more rust in there than you found.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-20845-1508513949.jpg) |
doug_b_928 |
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#45
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 714 Joined: 17-January 13 From: Winnipeg Member No.: 15,382 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
The duct tape was to hold the tube on because it`s not the original tube. The original tube has some built-in insulation which makes it a larger diameter than the tube the PO installed in your car and it has plastic male on each end that fit inside the steel pipes. So, my guess is the insulation was added to try to keep the heat in the air in the non-insulated replacement tube.
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doug_b_928 |
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#46
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 714 Joined: 17-January 13 From: Winnipeg Member No.: 15,382 Region Association: Canada ![]() |
You beat me to it, Brent.
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sreyemj |
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#47
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 12-January 20 From: SA, TX Member No.: 23,821 Region Association: None ![]() |
Ah, makes sense. I guess I'm looking for a replacement then.
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bbrock |
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#48
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Well, it isn't the first time someone's been hosed by the PO. Sorry, couldn't resist. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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FourBlades |
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#49
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From Wreck to Rockin ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 2,056 Joined: 3-December 07 From: Brevard, FL Member No.: 8,414 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
You are doing a great job! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) When you finish it will be all done right and ready for 40 more years on the road. John |
sixnotfour |
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#50
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914 Wizard ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 10,912 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Well, it isn't the first time someone's been hosed by the PO. Sorry, couldn't resist. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) Great Job.. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
Luke M |
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#51
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,416 Joined: 8-February 05 From: WNY Member No.: 3,574 Region Association: North East States ![]() ![]() |
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sreyemj |
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#52
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 12-January 20 From: SA, TX Member No.: 23,821 Region Association: None ![]() |
914werke has one he's sending me (only $35 + shipping!). |
Superhawk996 |
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#53
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 7,224 Joined: 25-August 18 From: Woods of N. Idaho Member No.: 22,428 Region Association: Galt's Gulch ![]() ![]() |
You are doing a great job! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) When you finish it will be all done right and ready for 40 more years on the road. John (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) |
sreyemj |
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#54
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 12-January 20 From: SA, TX Member No.: 23,821 Region Association: None ![]() |
When you finish it will be all done right and ready for 40 more years on the road. John That's the idea, although I bought this about 2006ish and it had been off the road for quite awhile before that (I think the seller mentioned 8 years). I'm thinking of using ospho, then rustoleum primer on the inside of the longs. Apparently ospho doesn't play well with some epoxy primers and I don't want to take any chances. |
bbrock |
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#55
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Apparently ospho doesn't play well with some epoxy primers and I don't want to take any chances. Curious where you read that. PPG actually recommends using an acid rust converter to promote adhesion of their epoxy. Lots of us have used Ospho/phosporic acid as metal prep for epoxy without any issues. After all this work, you don't want to skimp on your one chance to lay down solid protection. There are things you can spray in the longs after they are together, but none will be as good as a good coat or 2 of epoxy. Also, remember that most primers will allow water through to the metal. Epoxy won't. |
sreyemj |
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#56
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 12-January 20 From: SA, TX Member No.: 23,821 Region Association: None ![]() |
Apparently ospho doesn't play well with some epoxy primers and I don't want to take any chances. Curious where you read that. PPG actually recommends using an acid rust converter to promote adhesion of their epoxy. Lots of us have used Ospho/phosporic acid as metal prep for epoxy without any issues. After all this work, you don't want to skimp on your one chance to lay down solid protection. There are things you can spray in the longs after they are together, but none will be as good as a good coat or 2 of epoxy. Also, remember that most primers will allow water through to the metal. Epoxy won't. The ospho bottle says recommended for use under oil-based primer and to do a trail before using with epoxy or other systems. Based on that, I googled around and found some people who had trouble (but you can find people who have failures with almost any paint/primer product). Did you do anything to the ospho'ed surface before using the epoxy primer (rinsing, sanding, etc)? I can wire wheel it down to bare metal, but there is still going to be a small amount of rust in the pitted metal unless I convert it with ospho before primer. If you wire wheel after ospho you just take off the converted material and potentially expose more unconverted rust. |
bkrantz |
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#57
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 8,445 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
I wonder if all those big round holes were made by the clever PO to do surgery on the original heater hose and then install the cheap replacement.
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bbrock |
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#58
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains ![]() ![]() |
Did you do anything to the ospho'ed surface before using the epoxy primer (rinsing, sanding, etc)? I can wire wheel it down to bare metal, but there is still going to be a small amount of rust in the pitted metal unless I convert it with ospho before primer. If you wire wheel after ospho you just take off the converted material and potentially expose more unconverted rust. Yeah. I let the Ospho sit for several hours or overnight. Then rinse with water to neutralize the acid. That will create a white phosphorous coating that will protect the metal somewhat and you can leave it until ready to paint. The go over it with a red Scotch Brite pad to remove the loose powdery stuff. I learned this from a few people on here who restore cars professionally. I've never had any problems with epoxy or any DTM paint sticking to it. I also do like you are planning and clean as much of he rust out as possible before treating with the Ospho. The Ospho soaks down into the pits rust to convert the rust and doesn't just encapsulate it. It's really good stuff. |
sreyemj |
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#59
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 12-January 20 From: SA, TX Member No.: 23,821 Region Association: None ![]() |
Did you do anything to the ospho'ed surface before using the epoxy primer (rinsing, sanding, etc)? I can wire wheel it down to bare metal, but there is still going to be a small amount of rust in the pitted metal unless I convert it with ospho before primer. If you wire wheel after ospho you just take off the converted material and potentially expose more unconverted rust. Yeah. I let the Ospho sit for several hours or overnight. Then rinse with water to neutralize the acid. That will create a white phosphorous coating that will protect the metal somewhat and you can leave it until ready to paint. The go over it with a red Scotch Brite pad to remove the loose powdery stuff. I learned this from a few people on here who restore cars professionally. I've never had any problems with epoxy or any DTM paint sticking to it. I also do like you are planning and clean as much of he rust out as possible before treating with the Ospho. The Ospho soaks down into the pits rust to convert the rust and doesn't just encapsulate it. It's really good stuff. I'll try that. The ospho bottle just says dry for 24hr and then paint, but I will definitely rinse first. I wonder if all those big round holes were made by the clever PO to do surgery on the original heater hose and then install the cheap replacement. I'm sure they were, looks like they used a hole saw. |
sreyemj |
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#60
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 89 Joined: 12-January 20 From: SA, TX Member No.: 23,821 Region Association: None ![]() |
Done with most of the cutting. I had to back off my passenger door brace slightly as the gap had widened by about 1/16in after removing all this metal. There are areas of the removed metal that are made of two laminated pieces of steel (including the top of the long in the engine compartment. It would be nice to reproduce the factory configuration, but I will probably use 16ga steel for the structural parts of the long repair.
From inside the passenger area: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1586065007.1.jpg) Inside the long, dark from the ospho: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1586065008.2.jpg) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1586065008.3.jpg) From inside the rear fender: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1586065008.4.jpg) The rear suspension console has some welded repairs. This will be replaced after the long repair so I removed the engine shelf on the passenger side: (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i.imgur.com-23821-1586065008.5.jpg) |
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