914 TOGGLE SWITCHES ... WHAT WIRES TO CUT?, Trying to figure out which of these wires to break and put a toggle switch in between. Options

[gearhead4111]

Mechanical dude, hating wires.. needs help. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

Hey guys, my car came with a start engine button already being installed. I now would like to get rid of the actual steering column lock / key assembly... by leaving the plastic ignition switch piece always in ON position behind the dash but using toggle switches instead to cut the connections to fuel pump and co.... (in case I ever wanted to rebuild to original)

Attached is a picture of the wires I see going into the switch. It’s a total of 7 wires going into 6 contacts on the ignition switch. The two black wires got to the same contact in the switch. All others have a separate pin to go.

I know this must be extremely easy to brake this up with 2 or three toggle switches but my brain is not having it right now...

Your help is highly appreciated.

I will send pics of the switches once installed.

1972 914. 1.7l fuel pump relocated to the front. Fuel pump kicks in as soon ignition is ON, Start engine button installed by previous owner.

Thanks guys

[sixnotfour]

That's pretty extreme,,,,with the I might wanna go back.... take a minute...Whats rest of the 914 like ? mods? and my 914 is REDRUM....no looking back...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

[lierofox]

One of your red wires goes directly to the battery, should have 12v on it at all times when the battery is connected.

One of your red wires is switched power that turns on when switched to Run, but turns off when switched to Start (Goes to power the headlight switch, and the relay for the fresh air blower.)

The 2 black wires are powered in both Run and Start, one of them goes to provide power to fuse 9 on the under-dash fuse panel, and pin 8 on the engine relay board 14 contact connector (Power to ECU, fuel pump, etc.) and the other black wire goes to the seat belt warning system.

The yellow wire is your starter wire.

The plain gray wire is power to your parking lights (when you use your turn signal stalk with the key off and it lights up one side only)

The gray with brown stripe I'm fairly certain is the door buzzer wire that buzzes when the key is in the ignition when you open the door (with your proposed plan I don't even know if this function would even need to be replicated, since the key would never be in the ignition.)

Are you trying to retain the parking light functionality and the door and seat warning buzzer? Or are you just concerned about the other circuits?

[gearhead4111]

One of your red wires goes directly to the battery, should have 12v on it at all times when the battery is connected.

One of your red wires is switched power that turns on when switched to Run, but turns off when switched to Start (Goes to power the headlight switch, and the relay for the fresh air blower.)

The 2 black wires are powered in both Run and Start, one of them goes to provide power to fuse 9 on the under-dash fuse panel, and pin 8 on the engine relay board 14 contact connector (Power to ECU, fuel pump, etc.) and the other black wire goes to the seat belt warning system.

The yellow wire is your starter wire.

The plain gray wire is power to your parking lights (when you use your turn signal stalk with the key off and it lights up one side only)

The gray with brown stripe I'm fairly certain is the door buzzer wire that buzzes when the key is in the ignition when you open the door (with your proposed plan I don't even know if this function would even need to be replicated, since the key would never be in the ignition.)

Are you trying to retain the parking light functionality and the door and seat warning buzzer? Or are you just concerned about the other circuits?

Hey lierofox, thanks for the detailed and fast answer. Blower motor has already been deleted in this car. Seats are bucket seats with 6point harness. So no need for seatbelt buzzers either. I really just want a toggle switch to turn of the ignition and Fuelpump to shut of the car when parked. To start the car, I’m thinking : toggle ignition on, toggle fuelpump on, push starter button and off we go.

Where would you put those two switches ? One to interrupt a red wire, one to interrupt the thicker black wire?

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

DON'T CUT WIRES. Too many have and that is the very start of your 914 going down hill and electrical problems starting. LEAVE THE FACTORY ASSEMBLY ALONE. The ignition switch is easily replaced and cheap



I HOPE THAT THIS IS A JOKE!

Mechanical dude, hating wires.. needs help. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

Hey guys, my car came with a start engine button already being installed. I now would like to get rid of the actual steering column lock / key assembly... by leaving the plastic ignition switch piece always in ON position behind the dash but using toggle switches instead to cut the connections to fuel pump and co.... (in case I ever wanted to rebuild to original)

Attached is a picture of the wires I see going into the switch. It’s a total of 7 wires going into 6 contacts on the ignition switch. The two black wires got to the same contact in the switch. All others have a separate pin to go.

I know this must be extremely easy to brake this up with 2 or three toggle switches but my brain is not having it right now...

Your help is highly appreciated.

I will send pics of the switches once installed.

1972 914. 1.7l fuel pump relocated to the front. Fuel pump kicks in as soon ignition is ON, Start engine button installed by previous owner.

Thanks guys

[Mark Henry]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I'd take the plug apart and without cutting wires make a connector pigtail for the modified ignition switch.
Run a tiny screwdriver up the back of the connector to push down the lock tab and you can pull each connector out of the plug.