I've checked everything, what's left?, My car is downright REFUSING to run Options

[JDW914]

Okay, so a bit of background.

Late last year, my car ('74 2.0 with Mark De Bernardi's 2056 hardware kit) suffered a betrayal from one of the old Bosch injectors, resulting in a fire which, while happily small and caught quickly, ruined the engine wiring looms, MPS, and battery. I figured repairs would be pretty straightforward - and they were. Got parts frome eBay, and new looms from Jeff Bowlsby, took the car to the shop of the painter who did the original restoration bodywork on it, and dropped, cleaned, and rewired the engine while he fixed the decklid and rollbar up. Threw the engine back in, got it running, tuned it to perfection, and went to reassemble the car.

Now this is the point where everything started going very wrong. We put the decklid in place and went to install the trunklid, and the trunk hinges both sheared at the bolt. I replaced the bolts, and we noticed the sheet metal flex mounts for the hinges were both nearly undone at the welds as well, so the painter offered to weld them up, which I agreed to. We disconnected the battery just in case, welded them up, and assembled the car. I got in to drive it away, and the car would not start. Engine turns over, kicks into life, then dies.

And this is all I've gotten it to do since, and I am out of ideas. EVERYTHING checks out and is working, to the point where I'm not sure how it's physically possible that this thing isn't running.

So far, I have verified:

- There is good fuel pressure (32-33psi at prime, 33-35psi during cranking and running)
- All 4 injectors (matching, new SMP FJ6 units) are firing
- There is spark, and it is timed correctly
- The point dwell is optimal (about 47 degrees)
- There is strong compression (around 140-155# in all cylinders)
- The valves are all actuating, and have correct lash
- All electrical and pneumatic connections are secure

And I have tried:

- Draining the tank and using fresh fuel (what was in it was several months old)
- Swapping coils from the stock-alike to an MFD Blaster 2 with appropriate ballast in case the coil was failing to charge up at running speeds
- Swapping the ECU out between a NOS replacement and the original which seems to be free of damage
- Setting fuel pressure all the way up and all the way down as far as the Bosch regulator allows
- Clamping off the cold-start injector
- Starting the engine while hooked up to a battery charger
- Unplugging the TPS

Not a thing so far has produced the slightest change of behavior. The closest I've gotten to having it run is, with WOT, holding the starter keeps the engine "running" at about 800rpm, with constant combustion, but no pickup of rpms or power, which is still pushing me towards either spark or fuel mixture.

What has me completely aghast, though, is that this thing was running perfectly and not a thing has changed. I'm beginning to think it's just angry at me.

What the heck am I missing?

[JDW914]

Okay, checked the CHT and plugs. The CHT measures about 3600 Ohms at a cold engine temperature of about 50F, and dropped to about 3300 after several attempted starts. Plugs were wet.

I pulled the fuel pump relay, and tried it with starter fluid, and the engine started and idled for about a minute.

I think I have a culprit. Anyone have recommendations on where I can get a decent replacement that isn't made by Urö? This is the second time one of their electrical components has failed in short order.

[cary]

914 Rubber, one of their new ones. Or take an old one out of your
headlight motor up front.
I use Bleysengs 2056 settings for my before fire up
MPS setting.
I have a car coming in next month for component
verification and testing. New rebuilt MPS and no idle.
Previous work was done by one of the areas oldest air
cooled techs.

[914_teener]

Okay, checked the CHT and plugs. The CHT measures about 3600 Ohms at a cold engine temperature of about 50F, and dropped to about 3300 after several attempted starts. Plugs were wet.

I pulled the fuel pump relay, and tried it with starter fluid, and the engine started and idled for about a minute.

I think I have a culprit. Anyone have recommendations on where I can get a decent replacement that isn't made by Urö? This is the second time one of their electrical components has failed in short order.

So for the CHT how did you check the ground? You only proved that you have resistance with means that on the enrichment cycle....its. a thermister...... that it has the spec high value for enrichment. The ecu needs that value. You can trick the ecu if you suspect the cht is bad by taking the spade from the FI harness with a jumper to any good ground.

So by not doing the above you haven.t ruled out anything on the CHT.

To check the CHT resistance range you can remove it and stick it in the freezer for the high value and alternatively dip it ....carefully just the thermister end in boiling water for the low resistance value.

Now...from your post...you are off to something else without ruling out a potential problem.