Order of operations, Where to start on the hell hole Options

[Wadesbrain]

So I’ve been MIA for a while. I’m a firm believer in the best way to start a restoration is to renovate your wife’s kitchen, hobby room, or whatever will keep her happy. I’m almost done with the kitchen so I’m making a list of parts and jobs to be done.

I’m looking at a bare tub build. My question is, what is the order for sheet metal replacement when the floors rockers and most stuff connected to the console etc need to be replaced? Thanks for your input

Wade

[9146C]

I'm thinking your question is likely project specific. depending on the rust/extent of the desired repair.

[stevegm]

I agree. Step 1 is to make the wife happy. Then get out the checkbook. I always start with a tall glass of coke, followed by a healthy dose of procrastination. When I finally get back to it, a couple years later, the problem has grown beyond my skill level, and I take it to a shop where they know what they are doing. YMMV. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

There are a lot of great people on here with experience on that repair. I’m sure a few will post their thoughts on the order soon.

[Tdskip]

You could do worse than to make sure the longs are strong and your door gaps are protected, other areas can follow that.

[mepstein]

Post some pics. The guys here are really good at dissecting rust issues and suggesting a plan but it help to give them a point of reference.

[mbseto]

On my passenger side, I replaced nearly everything between the front wheel well and the rear wheel well. Of course, I started with stabilizing everything by bolting to a large dolly and adding door braces. Take lots of measurements now. I built a jig at this point for when I put it all back together. I wish I had taken more pictures.

Going off memory here. Battery tray came out first, then engine tray, then inner pylon. The entire long was shot and I was able to get the heater tube out for reuse by just trimming away the rusted edges of the existing holes. Then the entire long came out as more or less one big chunk. Et voila.

Once it was all out, I rebuilt the inner long outside the car, fitted it all as one piece and tacked it in. Put in the heater tube, then welded on the outer pieces to close it up. Once that backbone is in place, the suspension pylons, motor mount and door sill can all go in. In my case, these wait until the same parts on the driver's side are ready to go in - the entire lot will be positioned by the jig I have, and tacked into place.

[Cairo94507]

That is so funny. For me to be able to buy my 914-6 10 years ago....I had to buy her a new MBZ coupe. That cleared the hurdle for me getting the Six. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[peteyd]

Post pictures for us all to see.

If it is bad, then build yourself some door fixtures first. Or weld in braces spanning from the back of the door opening to the front. First make sure the car is straight(not sagging when the doors open). Use the chassis dimensions linked on the “914 info” page in the top right corner.

Start and finish an area. Don’t just from here to there. Stay focused on one spot. If you remove some from one spot, then remove from another spot chance of the chassis coming out of alignment are greater.

Pete

[Wadesbrain]

Thanks for the input guys. Im going to finish stripping it. I have already welded in a couple of support braces and Im planning on having it blasted (unless someone screams noooooooooo!) Ill post some pics soon.