Advice from the Tribe--Order of Ops |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
Advice from the Tribe--Order of Ops |
bkrantz |
Mar 14 2020, 07:55 PM
Post
#1
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,762 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Please weigh in with advice and suggestions. I need to make some decisions and then organize my procedures and materials.
If you have been following my restoration thread, you know I have been cutting out rust and welding in new and used sections. With some luck, I may get to the end of this in another month. Then here are the remaining steps (suggest any I have forgotten), but not necessarily in this order: Paint stripping from all or most surfaces inside and out (contemplating dustless blasting by a reputable local vendor). The stripping should also remove any remaining bondo. Treatment of freshly-stripped metal. Treatment of any external panels that still show surface rust. Treatment of internal cavities for rust. Metal work to straighten external panels (right rear fender, front left fender, rear panel) as much as possible. Body filler and filing. Primers (assuming at least epoxy primer and high-build primer). Seam sealant, both spray-on and brush-on. Final surface prep and primer/sealer. Color paint (probably single stage). Besides the final paint, which obviously comes last, I have read conflicting ideas about what goes under or over what, and especially what goes on top of raw metal. |
Cairo94507 |
Mar 15 2020, 07:09 AM
Post
#2
|
Michael Group: Members Posts: 9,752 Joined: 1-November 08 From: Auburn, CA Member No.: 9,712 Region Association: Northern California |
I think you have a good list. I would consider checking all body measurements with the factory specifications to make sure all is good and test fitting panels as you go, doors, hoods, etc. Of course remove all of that crap foam Porsche stuffed into our cars to absorb water and cause rust. Also, while doing welding, hit all of the known fail points like the trunk hinge brackets, the clutch tube in the tunnel, etc. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
|
bkrantz |
Mar 15 2020, 08:51 PM
Post
#3
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,762 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Bump
What is the most important layer/material to make contact with bare metal? And bondo over primer? Primer over bondo? |
bbrock |
Mar 15 2020, 09:06 PM
Post
#4
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I'm far from an expert on this but I prefer epoxy primer as the base over bare metal with filler over that. The exception was this stuff I was turned on to by @mb911 https://www.amazon.com/Fibreglass-Evercoat-...7570&sr=8-1 I used that to dress welds and fill pinholes. The I epoxy primered everything followed by bodywork including filler. After that, epoxy again to make sure any bare metal was coated. Then high build, blocking, sealer, and paint.
One reason I went this route is that I found previous bodywork where filler had been laid DTM a little thick by today's standards and lots of rust beneath it due to water trapped in the filler after the paint over the top failed. I figured it would be better to have the epoxy DTM as the last line of defense. |
VaccaRabite |
Mar 16 2020, 06:11 AM
Post
#5
|
En Garde! Group: Admin Posts: 13,443 Joined: 15-December 03 From: Dallastown, PA Member No.: 1,435 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Body filler (the stranded evercoat stuff is really good) is supposed to stick better to bare metal, especially if its been scuffed first. Then Epoxy prime over that.
But lots and lots (and lots) of cars have been painted with an etching primer first, then body filler. If you put the filler over metal, you don't use an etching primer. BUt since you have to scuff the metal its not really a "saved" step - but it is a saved cost. Zach |
bkrantz |
Mar 16 2020, 09:25 PM
Post
#6
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,762 Joined: 3-August 19 From: SW Colorado Member No.: 23,343 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
One more question: I will almost certainly end up with some areas with surface rust, even after paint stripping. And maybe a few seams with old rust. Short of a chemical dip (not likely!) what's the best way to treat and/or encapsulate the rust--and do this before epoxy primer?
|
bbrock |
Mar 17 2020, 07:37 AM
Post
#7
|
914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,269 Joined: 17-February 17 From: Montana Member No.: 20,845 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
One more question: I will almost certainly end up with some areas with surface rust, even after paint stripping. And maybe a few seams with old rust. Short of a chemical dip (not likely!) what's the best way to treat and/or encapsulate the rust--and do this before epoxy primer? Ospho or similar. Basically just phosphoric acid. Helps the primer stick too. |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 15th May 2024 - 05:04 AM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |