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> Ignition problem
1bad914
post Jul 6 2005, 08:05 AM
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Trying to help a friend with his 74 Carbed 1.8. The car ran last year, he just pulled it out for the summer and the fuel pump was not running, but the car turned over. He asked me to give him a hand, the end result is he is not getting power to the coil (fuel pump is wired to the + side of the coil), checked fuses and relays and can find no problem. When you turn the ignition switch to ACC the idiot lights are not coming on and no power to the coil, continue to turn the ignition switch and the car turns over, but still no power to coil. Any suggestions??

Thanks,
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ClayPerrine
post Jul 6 2005, 08:11 AM
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It sounds like he has no power to the coil. The fact that the idiot lights don't come on would indicate that he has a blown fuse. I would go over each fuse on the fuse block and make sure that you have a good fuse with a good clean connection.

Get an emory board from your favorite toolwench and use it to clean each of the fuse block contacts until they are bright and shiny. Then replace the fuses with new ones that are the same color. That way they are the same amp rating.

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1bad914
post Jul 6 2005, 09:13 AM
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I have checked the fuses, any other ideas?

Thx
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Mueller
post Jul 6 2005, 09:22 AM
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QUOTE (1bad914 @ Jul 6 2005, 08:13 AM)
I have checked the fuses, any other ideas?

Thx

check the relay board....using your Haynes 914 manual, it'll show you what pins to check for power.
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Mueller
post Jul 6 2005, 09:25 AM
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here you go, get out your Volt Meter....
this is from Lapuwali's Blog (James M.)

Excellent Blog

QUOTE

14 pin
1 yellow, main trunk, starter wire from ignition switch
2 blue, main trunk, goes to G light on combo gauge
3 gray/brown, main trunk, switched +12, attached at brake switch
4 gray/brown, below engine harness, reversing lamp
5 green/red, main trunk, oil pressure light
6 green/black, main trunk, oil temp gauge (even if not fitted, may not be on '72 -)
7 black/purple, main trunk, tach signal wire
8 black, main trunk, switched +12 from fuse 8
9 green/white, main trunk, rear blower switch
10 brown, grounding point for main power relay
11 brown/white, main trunk, "optional for sportomatic"
12 red, battery + terminal, to main power relay
13 black/red, to fuel pump (+12, switched by FP relay)
14 red, from battery +, to 25A fuse on board, FP relay and others

12 pin
1 green/red, engine harness, oil pressure switch
2 gray/brown, below engine, reversing switch
3 green/black, below engine, oil temp sender (might only be on '70-'71)
4 gray/brown, below engine, reversing switch
5 black/purple, engine harness, coil - (tach signal)
6 yellow, starter solenoid
7 black/red, coil +, ignition power
8 N/C
9 N/C
10 N/C
11 green, blower motor
12 white, Aux Air Regulator (AAR)
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Mueller
post Jul 6 2005, 09:27 AM
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oh yea, some of the pins have power all time, others only when the key is on, and one (big yellow) only when key is turned to start the motor
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lapuwali
post Jul 6 2005, 09:30 AM
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On the 12 pin connector on the relay board (the aft connector), the black/red wire (pin 7) goes to the coil. Check for power at that point. Black wires coming into the relay board are switched +12 from the ignition switch. I believe it's pin 8 on the 14 pin connector (forward), a black wire. This leads to fuse 8, which then leads to the ignition switch. Somewhere along there, you have a broken connection. The main fuses are also flaky, so rotate them and make sure there's no corrosion at the contacts.

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