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> Rear Rotor Removal, rusted stuck? Not Anymore!, Two Screws?
cassmcentee
post Mar 27 2020, 02:00 PM
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Is the rear rotor held on to the hub by these two screws at this point?
I have Soaked/Heated/Hammered but the screws aren't budging.
Am I missing something here???
My guess is they are rusted in place...
I have a torch with a rosebud tip, didn't heat the rotor to red thinking that I could possibly warp the rotor...so I just went close to red...
Do I have to drill these and then tap them out?

Thank You,
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porschetub
post Mar 27 2020, 02:19 PM
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Put a punch which is about the same size as the recessed hole and hit very hard with a hammer,then use an impact wrench the fits the slot properly,if this fails center punch (dead centre) the screws and drill them till the heads are gone.
Once the disk is off the remains of the screws should wind out with ease,good luck.
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mepstein
post Mar 27 2020, 02:25 PM
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MAP torch is your friend.
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kroelofsen
post Mar 27 2020, 02:45 PM
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Drill them out...
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Bmw635
post Mar 27 2020, 02:47 PM
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Could try this impact driver. Hammer the handle and the bit will twist in direction you want while pushing the tip in to prevent rounding. Attached Image
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cassmcentee
post Mar 27 2020, 03:05 PM
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Okay, Great!
So they are the criminals holding tight then.
I have hammered and given a couple of attacks with my impact
Will soak tonight, heat/hammer/impact in the morning again...
Drill out if all else fails.
Thank ya'll
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jsaum
post Mar 27 2020, 07:00 PM
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I’ve had good luck using PB blaster. Let it soak for a few days then use heat. MAP gas gets hotter than standard propane, I’ve heated then spayed to cycle from hot to cool. Get the metal expanding and contracting to break the rust loose.
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GaroldShaffer
post Mar 27 2020, 07:24 PM
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Drill the heads off then pull the rotor off. Once that is off use a vise grip to clamp on the remaining threaded stud and slowly twist out. You still may need to heat it, but you won't hurt the hub. I agree with using a MAP torch to heat with.
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914forme
post Mar 27 2020, 07:33 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) And if the rotor is stuck, big puller will work, put two lug bolts, so the rotor and puller don't go shooting across the garage.
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IronHillRestorations
post Mar 27 2020, 07:41 PM
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I'd probably keep soaking it with Seafoam Deep Creep or 1 part ATF with 1 part acetone, those are the best penetrating fluids I've found. I'd also take a screwdriver and hammer and tap straight in on the screws, like you're driving it in, several times a day. It might take a couple days but the fluid will work it's way in. If you don't want to wait then take Garold's advice and drill off the heads of the screws.

The rotors have two threaded holes for screwing an M6 bolt in to pop them off the hub.
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914forme
post Mar 27 2020, 07:46 PM
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Thanks Perry, learned something new today.
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mepstein
post Mar 27 2020, 08:00 PM
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The guys at the shop use a MAP torch because they want to get it done in minutes instead of waiting days for penetrating fluid. It's a very useful tool for working on old cars.
The trick one of the guys taught me is to touch the cooling metal with a piece of paraffin. The wax will wick into the threads and make it easier to loosen while penetrating fluid will just evaporate.
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Amphicar770
post Mar 27 2020, 08:14 PM
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Try one of these
https://youtu.be/Pwz-NXj5ZIk

Google aircraft screw extractor and you will find similar.
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Spoke
post Mar 27 2020, 08:20 PM
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I had the same problem with my 914. I drilled the heads off but the rotors were rusted to the hubs. Had to pound the rotors off with a hammer. I was replacing the rotors so didn't matter if they were beat up.
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bkrantz
post Mar 27 2020, 08:38 PM
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QUOTE(Bmw635 @ Mar 27 2020, 02:47 PM) *

Could try this impact driver. Hammer the handle and the bit will twist in direction you want while pushing the tip in to prevent rounding. Attached Image


This is my favorite and always successful tool, that I keep around just for that job.
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914werke
post Mar 27 2020, 09:34 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Motorcyclists are probably very familiar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Ive wore out a couple of these
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bdstone914
post Mar 27 2020, 10:12 PM
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@cassmcentee

After you get the screws out you may find the rotor stuck to the hub. There are two threaded holes that take an 8mm bolt. Screw in two bolts sequentially tightening. Most all rotors that fit over hubs have them.


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Porschef
post Mar 28 2020, 06:07 AM
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QUOTE(bkrantz @ Mar 27 2020, 10:38 PM) *

QUOTE(Bmw635 @ Mar 27 2020, 02:47 PM) *

Could try this impact driver. Hammer the handle and the bit will twist in direction you want while pushing the tip in to prevent rounding. Attached Image


This is my favorite and always successful tool, that I keep around just for that job.



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Last time I used this was for exactly the same purpose. Clean the slot thoroughly, make sure the tip fits properly. Heat, spray in some PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or penetrant of your choice, (yes, the ATF/acetone works well, been using it for years, but you need to shake frequently to keep it mixed), repeat, seat the impact square and whack it but good with a lumpy hammer.

It’ll come off, and provide you with a sense of accomplishment... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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cassmcentee
post Mar 28 2020, 07:53 AM
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Thanks Ya'll!
I wondered what those other two holes were for
Makes perfect sense

P.S. I've been using my acetylene torch with a rosebud tip.
Had to heat the axle nut to RED just to get it off.
This car sat on the ground for way too many years.
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Jamie
post Mar 28 2020, 09:09 AM
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[quote name='Bmw635' date='Mar 27 2020, 12:47 PM' post='2798273']
Could try this impact driver. Hammer the handle and the bit will twist in direction you want while pushing the tip in to prevent rounding. Attached Image
[/quote

Don't overlook the fact that these impact drivers have Forward and Reverse settings. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sunglasses.gif)
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